Need Bees Removed?
Beekeeping Forums
December 27, 2014, 03:49:52 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
   Home   Help Search Calendar bee removal Login Register Chat  

Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Down
Author Topic: Wintering, ventilation, and polystyreen feeders  (Read 3266 times)
Paraplegic Racehorse
House Bee
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 146

Location: Richland, Benton County, Washington State

Kilted beekeepers unite!

« Reply #20 on: February 04, 2007, 09:30:21 PM »


Screened bottom.

Bottom is open and no need for upper system.

Screened bottom is sentisite to wind blow. Take care of that.

Presumably, you use screened bottoms. Have you found an adequate way to set up wind baffles? I'm thinking that I might just use empty supers with screen stretched across them with a grid of luan or something below the mesh to help break the wind. The only trouble, here, is: would that not just help direct the wind up into the hive?

Must find engineer with access to wind tunnel...

I'm Paraplegic Racehorse.
Member in good standing: International Discordance of Kilted Apiarists, Local #994

The World Beehive Project - I endeavor to build at least one of every beehive in common use today and document the entire process.
New Bee
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 24

Location: southwest mich

« Reply #21 on: February 04, 2007, 10:32:13 PM »

I drill a hole about the size of a penny right above the handle on top deep. also put on enterance reducer problem solved no need to get complicated very easy to do -----gnhony-----
Brian D. Bray
Galactic Bee
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 7369

Location: Anacortes, WA 98221

I really look like this, just ask Cindi.

« Reply #22 on: February 05, 2007, 06:19:43 PM »

Please note: proper ventilation of a hive.  From the bottom up in this order.  Hive stand, Screened bottom board w/blocked entrance, slatted rack (thermo spacer, etc.), hive bodies, 2nd slatted rack (bee expansion area), upper entrance (a solid bottom board turned upside down works).
There is room for bees to expand due to temperature and brood build up prior to putting on supers and the air flow is controlled.  The chimney runs from the top entrance to the ground, the natural cracks between the bottom board and the hive stand allows the air to enter and flow upward.  The entrance at the highest point of the hive allows the moisture to vent instead of condense on the underside of the top.  It's simple and it works due to limited but natural air flow. 
As long as your hives don't get blown over or ravaged by a bear they will survive given sufficient stores.


Life is a school.  What have you learned?   Brian      The greatest danger to our society is apathy, vote in every election!
Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Up
Jump to:  

Beemaster's Beekeeping Ring
Previous | Home | Join | Random | Next
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines | Sitemap Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.186 seconds with 21 queries.

Google visited last this page December 01, 2014, 11:38:00 AM