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Author Topic: The top entrance  (Read 1726 times)
zan
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« on: March 08, 2006, 11:30:51 AM »

Hi everyone!
I have some questions regarding the top entrance:
If I try top entrance where should I place the honey supers - above the top entrance or below?
Aren't bees trying to put honey as far as possible from the rntrance?
Thanks,
       Zan.
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Finsky
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« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2006, 11:56:57 AM »

Here I have 3 type entrances sites.

Out temperature was 32C so I kept them all open. Normally temperature is in summer  20 C at day. Then I close every two and topmost I keep closed.

The site idea is that when you take with hands the box, bees are not near your fingers.

When you start to use top of middle entrance you cannot close it totally. Bees learn to use it and it is important that it is open all the time.

There is nothing difficult in this issue. Someone makes it "doctrine".
At winter is very important that top entrance is open.

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Michael Bush
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« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2006, 08:04:33 AM »

>If I try top entrance where should I place the honey supers - above the top entrance or below?

Doesn't matter.

>Aren't bees trying to put honey as far as possible from the rntrance?

No.
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Michael Bush
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Moonshae
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« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2007, 12:15:16 PM »

I have a telescoping cover, so I was thinking that I'd use some 1×2s to make a short box, and cut out a notch or a hole in one side, and place this on top of the inner cover to make a top entrance. Will they end up filling this with comb, or is it a viable plan? If it's viable, could I then turn it into a middle entrance by adding honey supers on top (when that time comes)?
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Shizzell
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« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2007, 12:47:57 PM »

I drill a hole through every-other super I have plus the top brood chamber. I drill a 1in. in diameter in the top left side of the ones I do. They do not fill the hole, and I have noticed it has increased my hive's production by atleast 50%. Also, it cuts down on bearding, swarming, and I don't have to buy more equipment, such as a top entrance. I'ed consider a hole before buying a top entrance.

Jake
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Moonshae
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« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2007, 03:04:03 PM »

How do you cover the holes to prevent drafts when it gets cold, in a way that's removable in the spring? My second brood boxes are on their way, so I can easily prep them with a hole before I install them. Do you put the hole on the same side as the main entrance, or doesn't it matter?

Also, there's no worry about rain getting in the hole? One inch seems pretty big.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2007, 04:31:02 PM by Moonshae » Logged

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Brian D. Bray
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« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2007, 04:20:57 PM »

For a top entrance I just use a solid bottom board on top of the hive.  It works just like a migratory top.  As I add supers the top goes higher.  The bees enter the hive and take or handoff their nectar load to other bees.  The bees put the nectar where they want/need it. 

The one thing to be aware of is that often the brood chamber will become inverted in a top entrance hive, the brood chambers movers up with the entrance.  That is why I use a 2nd slatted rack and the 1-2 inch hhoney barrier on the top side of brood frames as a barrier to keep the queen down.  But if she does invert, since I use nothing but medium frames I just reconfigure the hive when I harvest by moving the brood nest down to where I want it.
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Moonshae
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« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2007, 04:34:46 PM »

I'm not trying to convert to a top entrance, I'm trying to add an extra one for ventilation and easier access for the bees. So it doesn't need to be full size, just enough room to give them some extra access.
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Brian D. Bray
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« Reply #8 on: May 22, 2007, 04:43:55 PM »

In that case just tack some 1/4X3/4 shims on top of one of the supers leaving the front or portion of the front open.   I personally hate to ruin good bee boxes by drilling holes in them.  I've never had good luck doing that.  I always end up with ants and slugs, etc., in the hive all year long by drilling holes. 

The other way to make an additional entrance is to cut out the center of a bottom board and place it between the supers.
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Understudy
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« Reply #9 on: May 23, 2007, 01:22:04 AM »

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php?topic=5176.0

Sincerely,
Brendhan
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #10 on: May 25, 2007, 10:25:10 AM »

Buy some shingle shims at the lumber yard.  Put one on each side of the telescopic cover or the cover and you'll have a top entrance and a lot of top ventilation.
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
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Shizzell
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« Reply #11 on: May 25, 2007, 12:54:28 PM »

Quote
How do you cover the holes to prevent drafts when it gets cold, in a way that's removable in the spring? My second brood boxes are on their way, so I can easily prep them with a hole before I install them. Do you put the hole on the same side as the main entrance, or doesn't it matter?

Also, there's no worry about rain getting in the hole? One inch seems pretty big.

First, you should know a few things about how I keep my hives. I keep them at a relatively full bee population. Also, My hives are in a place where wind rarely gets to them. Also, I have a metal strip that is tacked around the hole so I can easily close it and shut it if there is a robbing situation, etc. I put the hole on the same side as the main entrance, thus they can use it as a entrance very easily. It really cuts down on the transportation if they have to go from the top to the bottom or bottom all the way to the top.

Jake
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