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Author Topic: Cheapest woodenware  (Read 12132 times)
Jim 134
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« Reply #20 on: November 08, 2013, 09:04:44 AM »

OldMech ........

Where do you buy lumber from Huh



              BEE HAPPY Jim 134 Smiley
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"Tell me and I'll forget,show me and I may  remember,involve me and I'll understand"
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"The farmer is the only man in our economy who buys everything at retail, sells everything at wholesale, and pays the freight both ways."
 John F. Kennedy
Franklin County Beekeepers Association MA. http://www.franklinmabeekeepers.org/
Moots
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« Reply #21 on: November 08, 2013, 09:36:08 AM »

OldMech ........

Where do you buy lumber from Huh


              BEE HAPPY Jim 134 Smiley

Jim,
Not sure where he gets his lumber, but I did learn early on in building my own boxes to avoid the big box stores, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.  While I like the convenience of those places, I realized that their lumber is about 3 times as expensive as my local Mom and Pop lumber yards.  Like OldMech, I also do all mediums...However, I buy my frames and assemble them.  Last time I put pen to paper, I want to think I figured it was costing me about 6 bucks and change a box.

Honestly, I've enjoyed tinkering around with the woodworking aspects of being a Beek nearly as much as actually working with the Bees....Just something satisfying about being heavily involved in all aspects of the hobby to me.  I don't work as fast as OldMech, and would be the first to admit that if I didn't actually enjoy it, it probably wouldn't be worth the time investment, although, I do like the idea of saving a buck whenever possible.  grin
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jaseemtp
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« Reply #22 on: November 08, 2013, 02:59:24 PM »

Mann lake is the cheapest for me.  I can get free shipping and do not have to pay sales tax.  That said I often build my own boxes.  Yes I know if I factor in my time the boxes cost more, but I tend to have some free time and enjoy building the boxes.
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OldMech
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« Reply #23 on: November 08, 2013, 05:15:58 PM »

Normally the local lumberyard. around 7 bucks for a 1x8x12 gets two medium boxes. Plus glue, nails etc..   I get 49 top bars AND bottom bars out of a 2x8x12 that cost me about 8 bucks.  .10 cents each?  I get over 1000 side plates for the frames out of a 2x10x12 that cost me around ten bucks...    .01 cents each?   Brad nails and glue.. electricity. a saw blade once in a blue moon.. Still dont cost me .50 cents each...   
   4x8 sheet of plywood is the most expensive thing I buy.. around 21 bucks..   thats still 8 bottom boards top boards/inner covers  take your pick..  thats under three bucks, and normally I have scrap I can use for sides/edges...   I used to buy the rolls of tin for the tele covers..    I could get 27 of them out of a 50 ft roll so they cost me under 2.50 ea.. however at 60 - 70 bucks a roll I finally gave it up, and now just paint the snot out of the tele covers and replace as needed.. I havent noticed much difference in longevity, but theres a big difference in enjoyment if I dont have to cut/bend tin.

    I still consider it a hobby, something I enjoy doing so consider my time irrelevant.

   I am one of those people who needs to be doing something..  Wife wanted LOTS of bees for LOTS of honey and wax.. but the bees dont keep me busy enough. I have several weeks with nothing to do between inspections etc.. (not to mention all winter)  so I improvised by building equipment..  When I begin to get numbers up, start making queens, Nuc's etc..   It may keep me on my toes.. until then..   I build, and have sold quite a number of hives and spare boxes, tele covers, new bottom boards etc...   My frames are no media firestorm, but are stronger than anything you can buy. They work a lot nicer than flipping the wedge to go foundationless...  They in fact look very similar to what Mr. Bush has pictures of in his website, though cutting them from raw stock I have slightly thicker side plates and top bars. I like to use the extractor with my foundationless. They have impressed enough people that I am beginning to fill in the spare time I have adequately..    Finding it hard to understand why anyone with lots of beehives wouldnt do the same.. it IS a substantial savings.

   You can get set up, and run.. say the side plates for the frames.. in half a day you have 2000 of them..    Takes longer to do the top bars.. shaving them down to fit snugly, cutting the 45's etc...  but in the second half of the day you can have 500 of them,, the bottom bars are the trim left over from cutting the top bars down to size..  When I shave down the 1x8 stock for boxes I save those pieces and use them for more bottom bars.
   Then I can sit down and build frames. Gluing and nailing for hours.. friends stop in and have a beer with me, we shoot the bull while I nail and glue. Often I put them to work rubbing the beeswax on the frames while we gab..  I have a rack built on the wall for the finished frames to go into. Holds 60 frames...  usually it fills up before I realize it.   I guess its all a matter of time available and what you consider enjoyable, and or worthwhile Smiley
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39 Hives and growing.  Havent found the end of the comfort zone yet.
Brother Dave
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« Reply #24 on: November 10, 2013, 08:53:08 PM »

I like saving money I have tried to make my own tops and bottoms.


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OldMech
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« Reply #25 on: November 10, 2013, 10:02:36 PM »


  If you have access to a table saw you can make everything but the frames. (and the hole in the inner cover) I have tried being fancy with the boxes, making finger joints for the corners.. not a woodworker, so dont know the name of them. I bought a dado blade, made a jig.. and quickly found that the beekeepers in the area didnt like them. too hard to seal and keep sealed. they split and warp etc unless you stay on top of keeping them well painted..  I tried rabbiting the corners.. that worked, less joints, easier to seal... then one day I was in a hurry. I needed another hive FAST, so I just made butt joints and glued them well.. I even used the brad gun to nail them together with 1 1/2 inch brads...   Seven months later I had those boxes replaced.. I took one, and stood it on its corner, and STOOD on it holding onto the side of my truck bed.. now I am sure if I had bounced on it it would have failed.. but I didnt bounce, just balanced on it.. all 180 lbs of me... Impressed... I have never gone back to the fancier corners.
   Hive bodies get the hive tool jammed into the edges, which chips the paint.. which doesnt get repainted, which causes the wood to rot where the paint was chipped.. Eventually the bees have an entrance at the corner of the hive body, and the box needs replaced...
   I would ask.. HOW STRONG does a box need to be? If a butt joint can hold 180 lbs, and last for about four - five years in this climate before the corners start to rot away.. what more do you need? Is it worth taking the time to make fancy corners on an expendable item?
  It takes me less time to make them this way, they last longer. its easier to seal the end grain, and they sell better than the fancy corners...

   As always. YOUR method, if it works for you, is what you should do... just posting what "I" do.
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39 Hives and growing.  Havent found the end of the comfort zone yet.
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