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Author Topic: Squaring up boxes and removing the wobble  (Read 499 times)
Field Bee
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Gender: Male
Posts: 531

Location: Central Arkansas

« on: August 23, 2013, 05:01:34 PM »

When cutting the boards to length make sure the fence on the table saw is square with the blade.
this can be done with a framing square on the fence and blade of the table saw.
another thing is a lot of boards depending on what company milled them are either 3/4 inch thick or 13/16 inch thick.
You need to adjust your router or dado blades to either thickness.
When you cut the ends make sure they are square.
That way the rip cut will be 90 degrees to the butt end.
that will take care of the wobble when you put the boxes together.
I have found 2 ways to square up the boxes.
One is a jig I made from a 2ft square piece of 3/4 inch plywood and some scrap 2x2's.
You can use a large framing square to set your 2x2's at 90 degree of each other.
that way you can set your box inside the 2x2 frame and glue and nail.
It should be square.
another way is use large corner clamps to square the box.
Place a framing square in opposite corners of the inside of the box and it should be square.
I use either a box joint or rabbet joint depending on what the customer wants.
I use a box joint jig built by Carl Korschgen.
It is a fine piece of equipment.

Richard Vardaman (capt44)
Joe D
Super Bee
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Gender: Male
Posts: 2011

Location: Ovett, Ms

« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2013, 11:16:53 AM »

Those are all good thing to do Capt. and you have to pay attention.  I have a jig for the supers, I just did the inside and out side on three sides.  You didn't need the other end if you did the super from the correct end.  Last winter when I started putting together some super I noticed after a couple the weren't sitting level.  I put the jig down on table 180 degrees off, turned it around.  Just enough to keep it from sitting level when put together.  Probably should go ahead and square the other end also.

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