Need Bees Removed?
International
Beekeeping Forums
October 20, 2014, 06:48:55 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News: 24/7 Ventrilo Voice chat -click for instructions and free software here
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar bee removal Login Register Chat  

Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: inner cover w/ a magnatory cover  (Read 1877 times)
zzzzzzzzpr
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 75

Location: mustang, ok


« on: May 19, 2013, 10:54:46 PM »

do u use both at the same time?
Logged
don2
Doak
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 354

Location: Hillsboro Georgia USA


« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2013, 11:03:22 PM »

The only difference between the Migratory cover and telescoping cover is the ease of stacking and strapping for travel. I always use some type of weight on the Migratory  cover whether the inner cover is used or not.  Smiley d2
Logged

melliferal
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 85


Location: Central Louisiana

@Checkmite


« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2013, 12:01:41 AM »

I disagree.  I tend to think telescoping covers are immensely more weatherproof.

Migratory covers are rarely used with inner covers; I have a feeling it's because the migratory covers can't "open/close" the inner cover entrance notch the way a telescoping cover can.
Logged

Recently moved; re-keeping in 2014.
10framer
Super Bee
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1534

Location: Butler,GA


« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2013, 08:49:21 AM »

propolis makes one about as weatherproof as the other in my opinion. 
Logged
JWChesnut
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 230

Location: Coastal Central California


« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2013, 11:15:10 AM »

Warm, dry area beeks can be really, really simplified:
I use a migratory cover identical in design to a solid bottom board.  Starter hives are sometimes palleted- 4 per pallet layer, and 2 or 3 high. The stacked starter hives share top-board as the next layers bottom-board. Up to 12 colonies per pallet.
When a yard is stationary on a stand, I replace the bottom with a screened board.  
I always use an inner cover- sometimes one sided, sometimes two sided.  Otherwise, I crush too many bees. Accidentally crush one queen and after grieving, you will use the inner covers.
I bind all hive stacks with a length of nylon rope and a trucker's hitch to tighten.  You want to be able to lift the stack without shifting, so really tug on the binding.


Also note in this design that mediums are made from cheap fenceboards using cabinet biscuits for corner reinforcement.
Cash outlay for a medium super is less than $2/per box.  (not including frames)
The design principles are inexpensive capital outlay, interchangeable parts, and fast fabrication.
My cover/bottom boards are made with a 2x2 lip and a 23" length.  On pallets and stands I have sleeper 2 by boards  that are at 19 3/4" spacing.  The bottoms fit over the sleepers and lock the hives from sliding.
Logged
10framer
Super Bee
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1534

Location: Butler,GA


« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2013, 11:23:42 AM »

i like the interchangeable top/bottom idea.
Logged
Moots
Queen Bee
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1462


Location: Gonzales LA (Southeastern Louisiana)


« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2013, 11:33:32 AM »

i like the interchangeable top/bottom idea.

I agree, that's a pretty cool idea which I had not seen before...NICE!
Logged

"We must reject the idea that every time a law’s broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions."
                                                                                                                   - Ronald Reagan
zzzzzzzzpr
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 75

Location: mustang, ok


« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2013, 01:23:53 AM »

one sided or two sided? im still new to all this. i did find some cheap ways as inner covers : plywood, burlapsack, and a screen.
Logged
beek1951
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 90


Location: La Grange, Fayette County, Texas


« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2013, 11:27:10 PM »

I went for years not using inner covers with migratory covers, but saw the light.
Inner covers help regulate moisture and temperature in the hive and keep the
brood nest warm and dry. I use them on all my hives (70) now, but I never buy
them. I make them out of 3/8 plywood and cut edges from old scraps. I drill a
2 3/4 hole with a holesaw in the middle and use a feeder jar. I also drill 2 --3/4
holes so I don't have to shoo the bees out of the empty super covering the feeder.
Logged
AllenF
Galactic Bee
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 8159

Location: Hiram, Georgia


« Reply #9 on: May 22, 2013, 09:31:44 AM »

I don't think the bees care much one way or the other.  SHB like the hiding place and there is an air trap above the hive for insulation, but there is no right or wrong answer with this.    Both work. 
Logged
BlueBee
Galactic Bee
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 4258

Location: Mid Michigan


« Reply #10 on: May 22, 2013, 09:51:09 AM »

I disagree.  I tend to think telescoping covers are immensely more weatherproof.

Migratory covers are rarely used with inner covers; I have a feeling it's because the migratory covers can't "open/close" the inner cover entrance notch the way a telescoping cover can.

And the winner is Melliferal  Smiley

I've got plenty of dead bees than can vouch for what he says!  No drip line = wet, dead bees in November.  

Another thing I don't like about migratory covers is the bees glue them down real good (but not water proof after opened in the fall).

I do have some migratory covers, but I solve both of these problems (water and glue) with a plastic sheet inner cover.  
Logged
Moots
Queen Bee
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1462


Location: Gonzales LA (Southeastern Louisiana)


« Reply #11 on: May 22, 2013, 09:56:44 AM »

I went for years not using inner covers with migratory covers, but saw the light.
Inner covers help regulate moisture and temperature in the hive and keep the
brood nest warm and dry. I use them on all my hives (70) now, but I never buy
them. I make them out of 3/8 plywood and cut edges from old scraps. I drill a
2 3/4 hole with a holesaw in the middle and use a feeder jar. I also drill 2 --3/4
holes so I don't have to shoo the bees out of the empty super covering the feeder.



1951,
Maybe my morning coffee hasn't kicked in yet   laugh  But I'm not following what you're saying here.  I think you're saying that for the one large hole in the middle of your inner cover, you make it 2 3/4 to accept a feeding jar, if you want to feed.  I'm not getting where you drill the two 3/4" holes and how this "stops" bees from getting into the empty super covering the feeder.  But I'm interested.... Smiley  If you could dumb it down for me, I'd appreciate it.  Pictures always help.  grin
Logged

"We must reject the idea that every time a law’s broken, society is guilty rather than the lawbreaker. It is time to restore the American precept that each individual is accountable for his actions."
                                                                                                                   - Ronald Reagan
beek1951
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 90


Location: La Grange, Fayette County, Texas


« Reply #12 on: May 22, 2013, 07:57:57 PM »

Sorry, I drill the two 3/4 holes on the same centerline as the feeder jar
hole but about 3 inches away from it. It just eliminates trying to get all
the bees out of the empty super and gives them a way back into the hive
without help.
Logged
don2
Doak
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 354

Location: Hillsboro Georgia USA


« Reply #13 on: May 22, 2013, 08:10:38 PM »

If you have a feeder on the feeder hole, how do the bees enter above the inner cover to begin with. Seems to me drilling two 3/4 inch holes showed them the way. Picture please.  Smiley huh d2
Logged

beek1951
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 90


Location: La Grange, Fayette County, Texas


« Reply #14 on: May 24, 2013, 07:42:16 PM »

When I change feed I inevitably find 4-5 bees buzzing around the empty super
covering the feeder jar. The more I try to shoo them out the more get in, so I
just started drilling the two 3/4 holes so they could get back into the brood box.
Logged
beek1951
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 90


Location: La Grange, Fayette County, Texas


« Reply #15 on: May 24, 2013, 07:58:52 PM »





This is an example on a nuc inner cover.
Logged
hankdog1
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 849


Location: Cedar Bluff, VA


« Reply #16 on: May 24, 2013, 08:19:17 PM »

Migratory covers are fine until you start getting up north where the winters are bone chilling cold and wet.
Logged

Take me to the land of milk and honey!!!
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Beemaster's Beekeeping Ring
Previous | Home | Join | Random | Next
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines | Sitemap Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.287 seconds with 21 queries.

Google visited last this page October 04, 2014, 03:47:28 PM
anything