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Author Topic: top feeder and lids  (Read 2020 times)
amymcg
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« on: November 30, 2005, 07:16:06 AM »

So, I put a hive top feeder on the hive the other day. When I checked it yesterday morning, it was fine, it was kind of cold when I put it on, so I figured they hadn't found it yet, but with temps coming into the 60's this week, I was hoping they would find it soon.  

Well I was right, they also found a gap between the top feeder and the outer cover so when I checked it this evening I had about 100 bees taking a bath in the syrup.  Most were still alive so I took some screening I had and scooped them out and dumped them onto the top bars. Their sisters came up to check out what was going on and started cleaning them up.  

Has anyone else had this happen?  I read somewhere about putting  some weather stripping around the top of the feeder to take up the gap.  This is the first time I've used a feeder like this so I'm just curious what other people have experienced.
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Finsky
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« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2005, 10:42:17 AM »

If topfeeder has a gap, wasp are eager to go in and swim there.

Thats happen..to every body ... Now you see that you must search how to get it tight.

Is it self made or buyed? Also buyed have gaps if you not carefull when you close it.  Tape is not for that and tape's clue catches dirty.
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amymcg
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« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2005, 12:12:53 PM »

I bought it.  None seem to be stuck from going in the actual entrance.  So, yes, now I have to get it tight.
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Rich V
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« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2005, 02:37:37 PM »

You might try some of that foam tape for insulating pipe.It works for me.
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gottabee
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« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2005, 06:21:45 PM »

I have had the same problem. I use split top hive feeders with floats. Lately I have begun feeding by putting baggies in the feeders instead of filling them with syrup. No dead bees. On the other hand feeding much more often.
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2005, 08:22:17 PM »

That's the thing I like the least about hive top feeders.  A gap means major robbing and thousands of dead bees sometimes.
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
Finsky
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« Reply #6 on: December 06, 2005, 02:44:23 AM »

Quote from: gottabee
I have had the same problem. I use split top hive feeders with floats. Lately I have begun feeding by putting baggies in the feeders instead of filling them with syrup. No dead bees. On the other hand feeding much more often.


There must bee technical mistake in that feeding box if bees die into syrup. I have used many self made float systems. They are not good. Often floating part is jammed into bottom and when I filled the box, float jumped upp and bees stayed under the float.

This type has worked well. I have used them 25 years. I am very satiefied with system. Volume is 8 liter.  2 box hive will be feeded during one week and with 3 filling.
http://www.hunaja.fi/tuotetieto/syottolaatikot.htm

* it is important that syrup gets warm from hive.
* easy to keep clean.
* easy to keep in store room

Problem: The new bee cabin part is slippery. I have handled plastic surfaces with sand paper so bees get attach with their legs.

If syrup is too thick (66%) it is like a glue and many bees die.  It is better to use 55-60%.

Cover is good. Somethimes wasp find some gap where to go into syrup.

This type of box needs 4 mm thick building board between hive box and feeder and 3 finger size holes in it.
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qa33010
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« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2005, 02:51:36 AM »

I was considering making a miller type top feeder, but I like the polystyrene one I received from Better Bee a lot.  I've only had five drownings and it is FLAT on top and bottom.  I've read that the miller can be a death trap, but so would mine if it didn't have the cover to keep the girls in check.

     I had a problem with the super under it being warped.  It was bad enough that robbing and wholesale slaughter almost began.  A piece of 2" tape held it secure enough until propolis took over.
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Everyone said it couldn't be done. But he with a chuckle replied, "I won't be one to say it is so, until I give it a try."  So he buckled right in with a trace of a grin.  If he had a worry he hid it and he started to sing as he tackled that thing that couldn't be done, and he did it.  (unknown)
Dale
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« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2005, 07:39:00 PM »

I made my own miller type feeders. I think they work very well, and do not have massive drownings at all.  I make the entrance to the syrup all the way on one side though.  I have never had a hive sit perfectly flat!
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Dale Richards
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backyardfarmer
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« Reply #9 on: April 17, 2006, 11:18:11 AM »

i am a new beekeeper and concerned about bees drowning in my Brushy Mt. hive top feeder even though it has raft like floats.  Any suggestions- use hardware cloth?  I was thinking maybe about putting some wine bottle corks in there as well- but they are all used- (some wine may be in them)
thanks
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #10 on: April 17, 2006, 11:13:19 PM »

The floats actually work better than you would think.  I do add #8 hardware cloth usually and get rid of the floats.  Limit the bees to just a quarter inch space down to the syrup.
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
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