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Author Topic: New box joint jig by Carl Korschgen  (Read 4005 times)
CarlinMO
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« on: March 22, 2013, 10:22:17 AM »

Fellow Beekeepers,

The link below is to a YouTube video that describes my new box joint jig that I believe is much simpler, safer, and more productive than most other jigs.  This jig can be used on a table saw or large router tables.    With a powerful table saw you could be completing the joints in two boxes at a time in a few minutes.

Box Joint Jig with Flippers

 
Of special note to beekeepers is the capability to make 1 ½” box joints with a ¾” dado blade or router bit.  

If you want more information send me a private message or an email through the forum so that I can send you a pdf document.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2013, 10:10:56 AM by beemaster » Logged
Lazy W
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« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2013, 10:29:30 AM »

I did not get the link. Thanks
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CarlinMO
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« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2013, 10:43:24 AM »

Beemaster needs to add the link.  Please keep checking.

Carl
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hardwood
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« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2013, 01:08:25 PM »

I made one very similar to yours some years back...I like the way you mounted the pipe clamp (I didn't even think about that)!

Scott
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« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2013, 05:07:53 PM »

After cutting the joints you should have assembled the boxes so we could see that the jig does as is advertised.  I'm sure it does but not seeing how well the pieces fit after machining leaves me skeptical.
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CarlinMO
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« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2013, 05:32:22 PM »

Rwurster,

I did show how precision the fit can be when I held up the 1 1/2" joints although I did not take the time to push them together.  Also look at the sliding box which is made from 5/8" baltic birch plywood.  I make the box joints on the left corners with the jig.  I would say they are nearly cabinet grade.  For best results you do need to have a sacrificial board in place to prevent tearout on the forward board.

Precise calibration of the jig to the machine table is essential but easily done.

The Basics of Box Joints:
Here are the three general rules to follow when making box joints with this jig.
1)  The flippers must be precisely 2x the width of the dado cut.
2)  The offset key must be precisely the width of the dado cut.
3)  The height of the dado blade must be precisely the thickness of the work pieces.
I developed exceptions to rules 1 and 2 that allow me to make the 1 ½”  box joints.


Carl
« Last Edit: March 22, 2013, 06:02:46 PM by CarlinMO » Logged
specialkayme
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« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2013, 08:44:41 PM »

Looks nice Carl. How much are you asking for them?
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Georgia Boy
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« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2013, 09:03:18 PM »

All I can say is WOW!!!

Most excellent.

and I want one.

Thanks for sharing.

David
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« Reply #8 on: March 23, 2013, 12:19:10 AM »

Very nice Carlinmo... I've seen your video with your hand hold drill press jig--- also very nice..I use the table saw with sled to make my hand holds and go with a 3/8ths by 3/4 rabbet for my joints, but if I did box joints I would surely get one of those jigs from you... Do you have it set up so you can remove a replace the size of the box joint ? Basically take off the 3/4in. boards and say put 5/16th stock for smaller projects... Either way awesome ideas
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Marshall
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« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2013, 05:53:27 AM »

I built a more complicated jig 3 years ago from plans on utube. I like your design. It is much easier to use and can make more boxes a lot faster. Nice job. I also like your handle jig. It is a whole lot safer than my table saw jig.
Jim
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CarlinMO
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« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2013, 08:29:50 AM »

PLAN-B,

Yes, this jig is adaptable to any size joint by changing the flippers and/or scaling the size of the entire jig.  The size of the jig shown in the video would not be ideal for making 6 inch jewelry boxes with 1/4" joints because you could not conveniently clamp them inside the sliding box. 

The flippers are mounted on a 5/16" steel rod held in place on a steel bracket with a cap nut and a very small cotter pin.  You can make a set of flippers to complement the width of the dado joint that you want to use.  You just need to follow the three rules that I wrote in the post above. 

Carl
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PLAN-B
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« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2013, 09:47:33 AM »

Sawdstmakr- what type of system are you using with your table saw and why do you feel it's unsafe? I use a sled type design and have no problem with it... I make three passes to complete it so not to bog down the saw but I feel it's safe...
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« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2013, 10:27:11 AM »

MEMBERS:

Please contact Carl through a private message or click the email button at the left-side of his post to contact him concerning any sales issue. I had to delete his personal contact information as per our forum rules. For a signature, we allow members to post their website address (if they have one) or an email address - either should be added in their member profile under signature if they wish it to appear in every post.

Anyone who has not read our forum bi-laws, please do so, we restrict all sales and advertising within the forum, just as we bring you the forum without banner ads or other advertising because our forum is 100% member sponsored through donations. Thank you.

Bi-laws: http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,19652.0.html
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Joe D
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« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2013, 10:41:45 AM »

Looks good Carl,  will have to make one.




Joe
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capt44
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« Reply #14 on: March 23, 2013, 08:40:10 PM »

I bought Carls hive handle jig a couple of years ago.
I've got to say it is very good workmanship and is easy to use.
Makes a perfect hive handle every time.
I will be getting one of the box joint jigs he has made.
I have a couple of finger joint jigs but they are hard to work with and if you make one miss cut you've ruined some boards.
I like the 2 runners on the sled to hold everything exact.
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Richard Vardaman (capt44)
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« Reply #15 on: March 24, 2013, 12:44:06 AM »

Sawdstmakr- what type of system are you using with your table saw and why do you feel it's unsafe? I use a sled type design and have no problem with it... I make three passes to complete it so not to bog down the saw but I feel it's safe...

Sounds just like the one that I built. I don't like the way it works. It puts your hands at too much risk.
Jim
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capt44
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« Reply #16 on: March 25, 2013, 10:45:23 PM »

I'll be receiving the boxjoint jig in a couple of days.
Can't wait to try it out, but bet I will wait.
I'm using a rabbit joint now that is pretty solid but most folks want a box joint.
It's like trying to sell plants grown in a grow bag, folks would rather have a round plastic pot.
When I get it calibrated and up and running I'll let ya'll know how it is.
If it works anything close like the handle jig does I'll be happy as a lark.
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Richard Vardaman (capt44)
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« Reply #17 on: April 11, 2013, 08:45:54 PM »

I finally got enough time to calibrate the Finger Joint Jig.
I've got to say I can cut 8 boards at a time in about a minute or so.
I cut all the long boards then all the short boards.
My hands never got anywhere near the Dado Blades.
It is very simple to calibrate.
Just set the guide he sends to the fence and the right side of the Dado Blade.
To adjust the height of the blade use a piece of 3/4 board and set the Dado Blade to it.
I have other box joint jigs but there not stable.
I had 4 boxes cut in the time it took to do rabbit joints.
I put metal guides on this one.
It is rock solid with no wobble movement.
It is worth a lot more than what he's asking for it.
I'll try to post pictures tomorrow of the box.
I've still got to cut the frame rest.
I used the 3/4 box joint setup but with the added option you can do 1 1/2 inch box joints too.
It really impressed me big time. Smiley
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Richard Vardaman (capt44)
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« Reply #18 on: April 17, 2013, 10:38:45 AM »

Capt44,  How is it working for you?  Would a guy with very limited wood working experience have any trouble aseemeling or using this?
Thanks
G
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cbinstrasburg
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« Reply #19 on: April 18, 2013, 01:03:13 AM »

Just wondering...what would be the advantage of having 1 1/2 inch joints...any thoughts on this.

thanks
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