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Author Topic: Hive stand rails  (Read 1499 times)
brushwoodnursery
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« on: February 06, 2013, 08:14:59 PM »

I'm building a stand for up to 6 hives with 4x4s, 2x8s and a half ton of concrete in the holes. I know the 2x8s need to be right on level side to side. Is there any advantage to creating a slight slope forward or back? Water runoff away from the entrance off the roof?
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AllenF
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« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2013, 08:59:09 PM »

You can give it a very slight slope.   Forward.  So that water will fun right out the front door.  
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beek1951
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« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2013, 11:25:23 PM »

If you are an old fool like myself, using solid bottom boards, it helps to give them a slight tilt to the front so water does not pool in the
bottom of the hive.
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RHBee
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« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2013, 12:47:28 AM »

One more opinion. If you plan on using bottom board oil traps they need to be level to work properly. You can always give a forward tilt by placing a shim under the rear of the bottom board if you don't use traps.
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Ray
Joe D
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« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2013, 02:18:31 AM »

I have mostly foundationless frames, you would want them level.  I do use SBB, and my hives are under a shed and on a slab.  Good luck




Joe
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brushwoodnursery
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« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2013, 06:56:30 AM »

Thanks, folks. Ray, that makes absolute sense about potential use of other equipment. In fact, I did just buy an oil trap that might not work right depending on the tilt. Joe D, how is your SHB level? I've been reading that keeping the hives in full sun will reduce them. This stand will also have an arbor overhead where I plan to grow a few vines for summer shade (for me and the girls). Full morning sun for 6 hours. Midday and afternoon shade.
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little john
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« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2013, 11:16:05 AM »

I have mostly foundationless frames, you would want them level.

Or install frames 'cold way' ? A few degrees then shouldn't make any difference ...

LJ
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brushwoodnursery
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« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2013, 11:23:42 AM »

I like the idea of setting the rails level. Then I can add a shim when I want but I'm not committed to the tilt. I use SBB and leave them open most of the year.
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mdbee
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« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2013, 09:36:13 AM »

I don't want to steal the post but since its about building a stand, I have a lot of 2" pipe and i plan on making stands out of them, has anyone used pipe or see the down side of using it? Thanks!
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KD4MOJ
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« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2013, 02:11:28 PM »

Being the amateur radio guy, I use tower sections on top of blocks. The come in 10 ft sections and are made of galvanized steel. You can put 4 or more colonies on them and not have to worry so much about weight.

Don't have a picture handy but I'll post if anyone is intersted.

...DOUG
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2013, 07:22:30 PM »

I think you're overthinking and overbuilding.  Throw the four by fours on ground and then prop them up to get them level... then a year from now when you wish it was somewhere else do it again...
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Michael Bush
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Dave360
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« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2013, 09:15:27 PM »

I am with Micheal
I use 4x4's 1 cinder block each end shim them level 4 hives to an 8 ft. more important to level side to side
and as Micheal said you can move real easy

David 
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mdbee
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« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2013, 09:06:13 AM »

I have four yards that the bees are setting on blocks and i need to make two more, the pipe and the welding will be free. All that it will take is a few holes and put them in. Would they be colder with the air moving under them? Just asking if anyone is using anything like pipe. Thanks,
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bailey
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« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2013, 09:57:34 AM »

If it were free I would use it!
Would probably design it as a mobile set up though. 
Bailey.
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brushwoodnursery
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« Reply #14 on: February 15, 2013, 01:08:02 PM »

Pretty sure we won't be leaving this property any time soon and I waited a year with them on blocks to watch the light for a good location. I want them higher for my back and too high on blocks doesn't seem right. Also, i like a good project!
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