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Author Topic: joining boards  (Read 2852 times)
Galactic Bee
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Gender: Male
Posts: 4514

Location: Mid Michigan

« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2013, 10:10:39 PM »

Yes Jim, it is a dedicated little box for a middle entrance.  I need an entrance above the ground to keep the skunks from destroying my hives.  So the easy options are a middle entrance or a top entrance.  Personally I don’t like top entrances in the summer because as soon as I remove their entrance, there is a huge swarm of confused bees flying all around me.  That un-nerves me a little, so I like a fixed entrance that doesn’t have to the bees expect in their natural habitat (ie trees). 

The little mid entrance box is also used for drone culling for varorra using little 2.25” foundationless bars.  I believe this also allows the queen to find as many drone cells as she wants without wondering into the supers.  The extra space is also useful when compacting the hives down to a single box for winter.     

The downside of this little box is it’s another piece of equipment.  I’m not totally sold on using it forever, but so far it has served it’s purpose.
House Bee
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Posts: 86

Location: Colorado Zone 5a

« Reply #21 on: January 16, 2013, 04:45:12 PM »

I have made several boxes out of recycled wood and just butted everything together with titebond 3 and had no problems.  You are still making a box which helps reinforce the joints.  All my migratory tops, bottoms etc. are butted together also with no problems over the past few years.  A good coat of primer and paint seals the deal.  A side note, I stagger the joints so that they don't line up when I'm making boxes/nucs.

Zone 5a @ 4700 ft. High Desert
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Field Bee
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Gender: Male
Posts: 531

Location: Central Arkansas

« Reply #22 on: February 13, 2013, 11:20:44 AM »

For joining boards finger joints or rabbit joints work good.
I use the gorilla wood glue with excellent results and using wood clamps.

Richard Vardaman (capt44)
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