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Author Topic: My first hive, problems overcome, new report and pics feb 12  (Read 11348 times)
mick
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« on: October 14, 2005, 07:24:02 PM »

So I trapped the swarm built the hive, dumped them in, and left them alone for a week.

I moved them 10 metres last night to the best spot for them, put a branch infront of the hive.

Today, first day out foraging from the new spot, theres about 50 returning to the old spot and flying around where the hive box used to be. I presume its not the same 50 all the time. Theres a steady stream to and from the hive in the new location. Will the lost ones finally get the message throught the day? or will they wander forever lost in the big world?

hope someone can tell me, Illlet you know either way.

Im not game to move it back to where it was as I think it would only confuse them more.
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manowar422
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« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2005, 07:59:05 PM »

Mick,
if you moved the hive during daylight, you left behind
some of the field bees who were out of the hive at that time.

The best way (to move them), is to close up all the hive's
entrances well after dark, thereby trapping all the bees
inside for the journey.
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mick
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« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2005, 08:10:02 PM »

Yep did that, moved em after dark.
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bassman1977
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« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2005, 08:26:01 PM »

Probably stragglers that were out in the fields over night.
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mick
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« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2005, 08:42:46 PM »

wow theres about 90% returning to the old spot and the rest to the new one. I can smell the new one from about 5 yards away so I hope when the seabreeze kicks in they will smell it too.

ZBe interesting in about 8 hours time when its getting dark.

Wow the real hive is really buzzing now and theres a lot more activity at it. Its a fine spring day here and a lot of them have heaps of pollen on them.

The old spot still has a constant stream to and from it, but its not getting any worse. I have a feeling that most of em  will work it out by the end of today and tomorrows weather is the same so by when i go back to work it should be ok. fingers crossed. Smiley
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bassman1977
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« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2005, 08:51:24 PM »

Quote
wow theres about 90% returning to the old spot and the rest to the new one


Well then, that's different.  Sounded like only a few (50 doesn't sound like that many).  Forget what I said earlier.  No idea.  I'd put a box out at the old spot to catch the stragglers.
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mick
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« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2005, 09:06:17 PM »

Its more like 50/50 movement now IMO. Smiley
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Joseph Clemens
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« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2005, 09:20:55 PM »

How far did you move them? Can the hive be seen from the old location? Do you have other hives nearby?

The bees will not stay orphans for long. If their home is nearby, they will soon find it, but if another hive is closer, they may join it instead.
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« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2005, 09:23:40 PM »

If there is nothing at the old location for them where are they going?  If there IS something at the old location, don't put it there except just before dark.  That way they don't have anywhere to go except to find the new loation.

If you put a box there to get the stragglers, be sure to put a branch in front of it after you move it next to the new location.  And make sure it's NOT there EXCEPT right before dark.
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mick
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« Reply #9 on: October 14, 2005, 09:34:29 PM »

thanks guys, i only moved it ten metres. Theres nothing at the old location for them, theyre just buzzing around it then flying off again and either returning or going to where they are sposed to be.

I might try the box tomorrow night if necessary. Im not aware of any hives nearby but who knows? I dont have any other hives either

they can see their new home if they look in the right direction

im enjoying watching them. Smiley
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manowar422
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« Reply #10 on: October 14, 2005, 11:08:02 PM »

Since you closed up after dark and moved it, I wonder if
maybe the bees you are seeing at the old location could
possibly be robbers returning to the scene of the crime?
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mick
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« Reply #11 on: October 15, 2005, 01:43:28 AM »

Well after 9 hours of daylight theres only a few dozen die hards at the old spot. The new hive is really buzzin lots of activity. MIght have a first look in it tomorrow and take some pics, thatll be 10 days after capturing them i wonder what ill find?

I dont kow if they were robber bees coz there wouldnt be much to rob as they started on wired foundation only.

Smiley
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mick
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« Reply #12 on: October 15, 2005, 07:18:04 PM »

All is good in the bee world at my place. The stragglers, robbers or whatever they are,  all disappeared about 2 hours before dark.

The new hive has plenty of activity already this fine morning, theres a few flying around the old spot, so perhaps they were robbers and not stragglers?

I will lift the lid of in a few hours time and see what they have done n there over the last 2weeks or a bit less.

Smiley
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mick
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« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2005, 10:41:54 PM »

Well good news and bad. We all had to move house so its been interesting. I looked in the hive and to my dismay the second frames foundation in had collapsed in a zigzag pattern. I resecured the remaining foundation to the  frames as best I could and left them alone as we had to move.

I taped them up at night and we moved 15k opr about 10mi and I opened them up an hour after arrival at 11am. They were into action immediately and really went for the water!

That was 2 weeks ago. I will open them up soon to see if anymore have collapsed. I hope not and dont think so as it hasnt been long enough.

They are really well behaved but theres not a lot of them.

cheers

mick
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mick
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« Reply #14 on: December 10, 2005, 11:21:58 PM »

Well I opened it up and took some pics but i was in a hurry so nothing worth posting.

The first and second frames are pretty much glued together and to each other but are chocka block full of bees. The third frame is covered in bees both sides and looks straight, no warping. The fourth is also heavily covered on one side and lightly on the other. All these seems to be being filled and capped so all looks good.

The other frames need to be refondationed (?) so I think I will try to buy some already embedded.

One sheet of wax was lying at the bottom on the hive, acting as sort of a rubbish trap. There are lots of small white eggs and some 2mm long white thin maggots i think crwling around. they are as thin as a human hair and have brown heads and crawl like a catepillar with the back hunching. I suspect they might have been eating the foundation. Any ideas guys? They remind me of fruit fly larvae, just a spec.

Aside from that they look happy enough, thre were more in the hive than I expected, but i spose there are a lot more bees now!

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Finsky
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« Reply #15 on: December 11, 2005, 01:56:37 AM »

Do you have exra roo in your hive box?  It is wise to restrict the room as large as bees have occupied the frames. Other frames is better to take away. You put exta loose  wall inside the box.   It keeps hive warm and it easy to bees protect their frames.
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mick
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« Reply #16 on: December 11, 2005, 01:59:31 AM »

Thanks Finsky, I get the idea, makes sense, bt its summer here, average 30c during the day and 14c during the night, so do you still think I should remove the other frames and block off the rest of the hive?
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #17 on: December 11, 2005, 06:57:21 AM »

The picture has wax moth debris on it. I think that's what your maggots are.
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Michael Bush
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mick
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« Reply #18 on: December 12, 2005, 01:33:34 AM »

Thanks Michael, will do some research. They are on the groound atm. Whats the ideal height for a hive?
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #19 on: December 12, 2005, 07:09:24 AM »

Well, the bees seem to think the ideal height is about 30 feet up in a hollow tree.  Smiley

I put mine on treated four by fours with no botom entrance and it works well for me.  I don't have to lift that top super so high.
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Jack Parr
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« Reply #20 on: December 12, 2005, 10:03:36 PM »

Quote from: mick
Well I opened it up and took some pics but i was in a hurry so nothing worth posting.

The first and second frames are pretty much glued together and to each other but are chocka block full of bees. The third frame is covered in bees both sides and looks straight, no warping. The fourth is also heavily covered on one side and lightly on the other. All these seems to be being filled and capped so all looks good.

The other frames need to be refondationed (?) so I think I will try to buy some already embedded.

One sheet of wax was lying at the bottom on the hive, acting as sort of a rubbish trap.[ There are lots of small white eggs and some 2mm long white thin maggots i think crwling around. they are as thin as a human hair and have brown heads and crawl like a catepillar with the back hunching. I suspect they might have been eating the foundation. Any ideas guys? They remind me of fruit fly larvae, just a spec.]

Aside from that they look happy enough, thre were more in the hive than I expected, but i spose there are a lot more bees now!



The wax moths have invaded your hive and you will lose all of your bees if you do not take some action RIGHT NOW.  The bees will abscond leaving you a mess of trash to contend  with and it won't take long.

You may not have enough bees in your box for them to combat the Wax moth/ worms.

Move your bees into a " nuc " box if you have one or partion off part of your box and block off the entrance part that is not being used. If you keep the bees tight as you can they will cope with those worms.
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mick
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« Reply #21 on: December 29, 2005, 11:45:38 PM »

Well I took everyones advice, tightened the hive up and blocked off all the cracks. The wood wasnt seasoned when I put it together. I made a moth trap outa water vinegar sugar and a banana peel and hung it in a nearby tree.

Tpday it was over 100 degrees and when I checked the hive it was way too hot. They wre not happy, hundreds outside the opening trying to cool down. I gave then a few light hoses which they seemed to love. They carried a lot of it back into the hive. Lots also gathered on the wet top to have a drink. I shaded it and will move it tomorrow to a better spot.

Change of seasons and the sun shifting caught me out. Its back into the 80s now and all is back to normal in the hive. I have left a crack under the roof for cooling as tomorrow is gunna be 105 shocked
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Finsky
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« Reply #22 on: December 30, 2005, 01:12:20 AM »

Problems is that you have not told where you live? In Austaralia or in Canada. Difficult to know your circumtancies.
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Finsky
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« Reply #23 on: December 30, 2005, 01:17:07 AM »

Quote from: mick
Lots also gathered on the wet top to have a drink. I shaded it and will move it tomorrow to a better spot.

Change of seasons and the sun shifting caught me out. Its back into the 80s now and all is back to normal in the hive. I have left a crack under the roof for cooling as tomorrow is gunna be 105 shocked


Sounds good. It seems that you learn to act youself. In what country you live?
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mick
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« Reply #24 on: December 30, 2005, 01:43:55 AM »

Hi Finsky, Australia. Yes it was pretty obvious that they were too hot. I hope nothing inside has collapsed! I better have a look when it cools down in a day or 2.
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« Reply #25 on: December 30, 2005, 04:53:56 AM »

Quote from: mick
Hi Finsky, Australia. Yes it was pretty obvious that they were too hot. I hope nothing inside has collapsed! I better have a look when it cools down in a day or 2.


Yes. Really hot! 100 F = 38 C. In the hive it is 32C.

Bees need  alot water to cool their hive. Shadow is essential.

 You better go to second hand shop and bye a refrigerator and then  cooler element to instead of inner cover.rolleyes
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mick
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« Reply #26 on: February 03, 2006, 11:45:02 PM »

As you can see they have been busy and its time for a new super I think.

I plan to scrape of the excess comb on the frames and place them back in the bottom box. Add a new super on top. Leave all the honey for the time being.

Is what you see her normal? have I been bad? the pics speak for themselves







I poked my finger in that comb on the lid and it was beautiful and smooth and sweet, no bitterness. I didnt examine the frames as I will be cleaning them up in a day or so.

Appreciate your comments on the pics. PS very docile lot and a lot of baby bees I think having a peek outside on the landing today.

PPS Interesting seam of red wax that has sealed the crack between lid and box.
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Jack Parr
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« Reply #27 on: February 04, 2006, 06:23:08 AM »

Viewing your pics I think I see the hive cover in the first pic and if so, it is not how a cover should fit. Your's seems to fit matching the top of the hive body.It should be wider and longer than the frame box so that the cover goes over and drops down around the box. There is too much open space between the top of the frames and undeside of the cover. There seems to be a honey flow going on in your area and the bees will build comb in all free spaces when they need to store the nectar.

You seem to be wanting to use an eight frame setup? If so, you should fill the box with eight  frames and not leave any open spaces, There again the bees will build comb in any open spaces. That is what I think I am seeing in your pics.

Me thinks you are not understanding the theory/facts of BEE SPACE? Also I think you are not understanding the need to provide enough frames in boxes to provide for the bees a place to store their gathered nectar which seems to be what is happening in your hive.  If your box is for eight frames then fill it with that much, and squeeze them against each other. The standard frames are designed to provide the correct bee space that way.  Provide more honey supers above your brood boxes even to the point of providing more than is needed. The bees will usually fill in the bottom ones first

What you seem to be doing is creating problems for yourself. You have to be thinking ahead of the bees because they will do what they have to do in spite of you. You want to try to keep the bees building their comb in the frames and not at random like what is happening in your boxes.
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mick
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« Reply #28 on: February 04, 2006, 03:25:45 PM »

Well thats as I expect. Im just a bit late with the other box.

The lid is as supplied by the Bee shop. I cant see how it would fit any other way without covering up the ventilation holes. I will ask some more questions when I get the other box off him.

So apart from having a dodgy cover, too much free space, not understanding the theory/facts of BEE SPACE, not understanding the need to provide enough frames in boxes to provide for the bees a place to store their gathered nectar , how am I going? Cheesy
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« Reply #29 on: February 04, 2006, 04:07:16 PM »

You have possesion of them,  Got em in a box, and don't seem intimidated.   A lttle wild comb isn't the end of the world.  Just fix the problems as you find them and keep learning.  Everyone starts somewhere.
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« Reply #30 on: February 04, 2006, 04:19:14 PM »

Hi all

Mick: this is the first time I have read your post.  Re. the move of your bee hive, it may only have been 10 metres but the bees orientate themselves to specific locations and would be following flight paths back from their foraging trips.  They use various land marks (trees or buildings) to locate the hive.  If you've moved it, they will return to the same spot.  The old adage in regards to moving hives used to be "under 3 feet or over 3 miles".  The 3 feet can be achieved every couple of days and you will soon have your hive in its new position.  Alternatively, move the hive 3 miles away and when the bees have reorientated on their new position, you can move the hive back to the original apiary and its new location.  The three miles is a bit over the top and I have moved hives between apiaries a little over a mile apart with no loss of bees.  This really is quite basic and I am surprised no one has mentioned it before.

With the very hot temperatures that you experience, have you considered  or do you use ventilated bottom boards?  These can besimple wooden framing to the external dimensions of your brood chamber.  They can be made simply with pieces of 3/4 inch timber on three sides.  A metal mesh to the bottom of this.  Normal entrance blocks can be used to restrict the entrance when necessary and the bees still have all the ventilation they need.  

Hope this helps

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ian michael davison
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« Reply #31 on: February 04, 2006, 04:20:11 PM »

Hi all

Mick: this is the first time I have read your post.  Re. the move of your bee hive, it may only have been 10 metres but the bees orientate themselves to specific locations and would be following flight paths back from their foraging trips.  They use various land marks (trees or buildings) to locate the hive.  If you've moved it, they will return to the same spot.  The old adage in regards to moving hives used to be "under 3 feet or over 3 miles".  The 3 feet can be achieved every couple of days and you will soon have your hive in its new position.  Alternatively, move the hive 3 miles away and when the bees have reorientated on their new position, you can move the hive back to the original apiary and its new location.  The three miles is a bit over the top and I have moved hives between apiaries a little over a mile apart with no loss of bees.  This really is quite basic and I am surprised no one has mentioned it before.

With the very hot temperatures that you experience, have you considered  or do you use ventilated bottom boards?  These can besimple wooden framing to the external dimensions of your brood chamber.  They can be made simply with pieces of 3/4 inch timber on three sides.  A metal mesh to the bottom of this.  Normal entrance blocks can be used to restrict the entrance when necessary and the bees still have all the ventilation they need.  

Hope this helps

Regards
Ian
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mick
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« Reply #32 on: February 04, 2006, 05:05:35 PM »

Thaks for the input everyone. In all they had about 5 moves in the last 6 months or so, thats why I didnt want to fiddle with them too much.

I have read of heaps of old abandoned hives still going so I figured being a little bit late expanding them wouldnt hurt, and Im going to get to keep all the wild comb yummy!

We generally only get a couple of heatwaves a year but Im going to keep an eye on ventilation.
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« Reply #33 on: February 04, 2006, 07:56:32 PM »

In there Mick,

In regards to the cover being the wrong size, its a migratory cover so its meant to sit in top like that. It is the correct size. They use different covers, from what I have read and seen, in the US. I think the two different designs are being confused here. Migratory covers are the standard in Victoria, as are 8 frame hives.

Pleased to see you have happy bees.


James.
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« Reply #34 on: February 04, 2006, 10:10:06 PM »

Thanks for that info on the cover. I thought I was going mad as theres no way it could possibly fit over the box!
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« Reply #35 on: February 05, 2006, 06:43:14 AM »

Quote from: mick
Thanks for that info on the cover. I thought I was going mad as theres no way it could possibly fit over the box!


Not wishing to beat up on a hive box, but a migratory hive cover is also fitted to sit on top of the box and allowing only 3/8 inch clearence above the top of the frames. At least here in the US that is how covers fit, migratory included.

Cutting a piece of plywood ( 3/4 " thick by the size of the hive box) would do as well.  

The idea is, once again, is to keep bee space to a minimum needed. An inner cover would work as well to keep the bee space and over that you could use your current  cover.

Well at least you got some honey and that's what it's all about. Tongue
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« Reply #36 on: February 06, 2006, 01:54:39 AM »

Yes jack, honey galore. Im pretty happy being my first time. Im still getting over the fact that its so EASY to do what I did (bad start and all) and have honey in a few months.

Im running around the office encouraging everone to get a hive. One lady has acreage and shes looking into it now. Interestingly they are all interested in how much money you can make lol. One of my other hobbies is growing vegies and I give them all away, always have. So I cant believe how anyones first thoughts would turn to making money from a backyard hive.

Having said that, a 500gm (1.1pound I think) jar of crap sells for $5.00 in the supermarket here.

Not wanting to beat up on the not wanting to beat up on the hive cover, the guy in the shop is the top man in this State on Bees it seems (lucky me poor him) so I gather the style of lid is a local adaptation.

I am guesing that due to the hot summers were most comercial hives are kept, it is a ventilation thing. Maintained hive stacked 4-5 boxes high would benefit from these high lids. Also I am guessing that there will be a fair old gap of 1-2 inches between the top of the lower frames and the bottom of the top frames.

Then again I got no idea!
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« Reply #37 on: February 06, 2006, 06:56:07 AM »

for honey storage, supers.  Actually if you have enough honey supers the bees will fill them and probably not build all that wild comb. The queen will also use burr/random comb to lay eggs if it is near the brood nest/area and there is not enough open cell space in frames, available near the brood area. Then if you want to pull frames for any reason you will tear up the random comb and of course destroy the brood. Then the whole thing becomes messy with honey, brood, and pollen. The bees will make do of course but IMO it's much more efficient to have things in order and keep it that way. At least, that's my approach and I keep up with removing unwanted comb. Even then I had to destroy some burr comb with brood and honey built between the frames of two boxes, recently when I did an inspection. The bees are in their prepratory stage for the coming honey flow and the queen is laying  in my area.

I am selling honey at $ 4.00 US, per US pound, 16 ounces. Not a get rich quick scheme for sure.  

Anyway, you'll learn.

Jack
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« Reply #38 on: February 11, 2006, 10:21:39 PM »

Well my pre wired and foundation frames arrived this week. I also made up a new four walls into an 8 frame super. So today is the day. Good weather, gear on, dogs inside, smoker lit and off we go.

Boy they sure welded this lid shut fast. More comb too. I scraped all off the inside of the lid and put it in a bowl. Lost a few bees drowned in honey unfortunately. Came off easily, Id say half was full of honey, the rest ready for honey. The cells are about 3/4 inch deep!
[/img]

I scraped the wild honey off the top of the frames, this came of easily too, lost a few more bees, darn. But I reckon quick is the answer with what Im doing today.

I prised the frames apart and they seem to have filled them all up going on the weight. I didnt examine each one as I will do this in a few days when ythey settle down again. Tell me, how does this frame look? Wow I just noticed there are larvae in some of the cells WOW my first larvae sighting!!


I then placed the new super on top and on with the lid. A few had already climbed on the new frames as I was getting things ready. Lid on job done!!

I didnt keep any honey except for the wild comb seen below. Its yummy, very sweet, nectar smoky taste with some caramel.



I forgot how good real honey tastes. Dog wanted some.

Forget wine judges, I wanna be a honey judge.

So Im now on top of things, no harm done, enjoying myself to bits and very greatful for ALL OF YOUR HELP!!

In the last 6 months I have learned how to trap a hive, how to move bees, how to wire a frame and embed foundation, how to smoke bees and work with them, how fast they work and multiply and a bit about waxmoth. Im happy with my progress.

edit. with the gear off and a nice cool liquid refresher in hand I thought I would go and admire my handywork. There were of course a lot of honey covered bees on the ground as i shook a the lid onto the ground full of honey deluged bees. I was saying to myself gee theres a lot of them crawling around when BINGO one got my bare foot lol. Sill me. Im lucky tho, hardly notive them now. Ive had about 6 stings in 6 months and my reaction is only a lil sting.

Think Ill have my reward inside. rolleyes
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Jack Parr
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« Reply #39 on: February 12, 2006, 07:07:33 AM »

and the bees will continue building wild comb unless you do something about your cover.

However the burr comb building will stop when the necter season ends.
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Finsky
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« Reply #40 on: February 12, 2006, 07:40:54 AM »

Like Jack says, you should make a reasonable inner cover. The idea is that the gap between frames and ceiling is 10 mm. Not less or more.

I think that you have too much room in hive untill new bees start to emerge. There are quite few bees on your combs and the egdes of comb is not fully built.  You save wax for foundations if you stop the burr raising: no extra gaps.

It seems that you use inner cover upside down. Higher frame side is meant up and "no frame" side towards hive.
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mick
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« Reply #41 on: February 13, 2006, 01:50:09 AM »

Thanks for the input Guys.

This cover has got me stumped. Like I said, theres no way..........hang on! I think there is a sheet of plywood directly under the tin. If I remove it and place the four pieces of timber in first, then nail the board to the four pieces of timber, then there will be a box created. Got it? then if that sits on the hive the "gap" under the lid will vanish.

Is that the answer?

edit: I inspected the new 8 frames and found two of them covered with bees drawing the foundation, the rest had a dozen bees on each side doing the same thing. This was while most were away foraging.

I left some comb for them on a groundsheet yesterday and notice that some are feeding on the wax and honey.
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Finsky
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« Reply #42 on: February 13, 2006, 02:08:17 AM »

Quote from: mick
Is that the answer?


Towards the hive you have mere 10 mm wooden planed board or plywood. They are good because you may clean them with flame.

Then around the inner cover you have a frame which make the system rigid. If you need insulation on the cover during winter period you make about 5 cm high frame where you put insulation material.

Inner cover should be also firm. When you lift it and bees have attached it fast with combs, it must be able to twist it off. Material should be fast that bees do not eat it and it does not attach to hive box with resin.
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Yarra_Valley
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« Reply #43 on: February 13, 2006, 02:17:54 AM »

Some people put a piece of lino or something similar across the top of the frames to act as a kind of inner cover. You could try that, but I it could screw with the ventilation gained with the cover the way it is. If the bees run out of room they will build on top of it anyway.

See what works for you. Oh yeah, all covers I've seen in Victoria are the same as ours.
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mick
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« Reply #44 on: February 13, 2006, 02:48:54 AM »

Ok cool, I was thinking that maybe thats how the guy showed me in the shop, with that board on last. I reckon if I do that and fill it with insulwool it would be a good idea.

I watched some vids from germany I think and they were covering the frames with a plastic sheet then the lid. I dont think this would be a good idea for Aussie conditions tho, too hot.

My conditions are more like the Med. than anywhere else in europe they say. Nothing in the Uk comes close, as for the US, probably the southern states come close.
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mick
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« Reply #45 on: February 13, 2006, 03:02:53 AM »

Nope thats all wrong. It has to stay the way it is or I lose the ventilation holes. I guess our lids are special adaptation for local conditions. Aimed on maximum ventilation I spose.
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Finsky
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« Reply #46 on: February 13, 2006, 03:30:30 AM »

Quote from: mick
My conditions are more like the Med. than anywhere else in europe they say. Nothing in the Uk comes close, as for the US, probably the southern states come close.


You should go to some professional beekeeper or so and offer youself to help him in his job without salary.  He would tell some basics from local honey harvesting.  You have in Australia high level beekeeping and you have your own nature there.  To know bee plants is the other half of beekeeping.

Try to find some tutor to you. It helps more than else.
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Yarra_Valley
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« Reply #47 on: February 13, 2006, 04:44:20 AM »

Quote from: Finsky

You should go to some professional beekeeper or so and offer youself to help him in his job without salary.  He would tell some basics from local honey harvesting.  You have in Australia high level beekeeping and you have your own nature there.  To know bee plants is the other half of beekeeping.

Try to find some tutor to you. It helps more than else.


With Finsky on that. Do you go to the VAA (Victorian Apiarists Association) meetings? Think that's what they're called. I went a few times before I left Australia. They meet in Kew once a month. There annual auction should be coming up soon, an excellent oppurtunity to expand your hiveware. They usually do a buy and sell at every meeting anyhow. Commerical beekeepers quite often do talks on how they do things. They also have a collection of whats flowering on a table at that time of year so you can learn to identify it. They have a library of relevant books.

James.
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mick
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« Reply #48 on: February 14, 2006, 01:58:57 AM »

Thanks guys, I missed a big bee field day by about a week when I got started on this, keeping an eye out for the next one.

Over the years I have known a few beekeeprs, old man Archibald for one, but I know none atm.

In the meantime I will keep tapping into the thousands of years of knowledge on here.

I took some comb into work today for everyone to taste. Everyone was amazed at the taste and "ahh thats real honey" was the usual comment.

I checked the new super, they are really going to town on the new frames. Theres another couple of months before it gets cold here (18c av) so I reckon I might be adding another one soon.

At this stage Im planning to pinch a couple of the frames they draw out if I can for use in the future on my second hive when it eventuates.
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