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Author Topic: How much sryup are your bees going through?  (Read 1281 times)
Parksguyy
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario


« on: September 17, 2012, 08:20:03 AM »

Hello All,
First year beek here, just outside of Ottawa, Ontario.
We started feeding last week at 2:1 sugar syrup .. have four hives, two quite stronge ones and two alittle weaker ... all started at the same time.  We got them late in June, so no honey for us this year.
The girls were going thru about a gallon every two days.  Just this past Saturday I did a refill and on Sunday got a call saying the girls were thirsty.  I am using a combination of hive top feeders and guail waterers, and have not noticed any robbing.  I did have two larger entrance feeders on earlier and noticed a number of hornets trying for a free meal.  They stayed outside, never noticed any getting into the hive ... when I noticed them the entrance reducers went on.  Anyways just wondering if this syrup intake is in line with what others have experienced.  We are getting our sugar from a National Grocers type store for $15.99 for a 20kg bag ... this is only good for two feedings!  I hope this safeguards the girls thru the winter!
Thanks,
Kerry   
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MTWIBadger
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Location: Bitterroot Valley, Southwest Montana


« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2012, 10:57:10 PM »

Kerry
I'm feeding 7 hives since our honey flow was not good this year. The small hive at my house is going through a gallon of 2:1 in 3 days with an internal glass jar feeder.  So yours are taking it down even quicker.  Are the hives getting heavier?  I figure I have about 4 weeks to feed before it gets too cold.
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duck
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« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2012, 12:26:28 AM »

13 at the yard at the house, they are drawing comb like crazy.  15 gal a week.
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JackM
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« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2012, 08:37:47 AM »

1-1/2 cups per day per hive.
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mikecva
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Location: Northern Virginia USA


« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2012, 12:05:52 PM »

Each of my hives are going through 2 gallons of 3:2 every 4-5 days (we are having a lot of overcast right now). It is also getting down in the low 50s at night already. I will be switching to 2:1 in late October or when the days reach the mid 50s also. This has worked in the past for me but talk to other local beeks and see how they are doing. I am getting lots of new eggs, larva, and honey stores.  -Mike
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2Sox
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« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2012, 12:55:48 PM »

I only feed as an absolute last resort emergency situation. Right in the middle of the golden rod and aster flow and it's bangin' up here! Not feeding anything yet and I don't anticipate that I'll need to. Whatever frames of honey I take, I store half to feed back - just in case.  Took 20 frames last week. Ten are stored.  Might need to give them back to the weak ones in a couple of weeks. If I don't use them, I give a boost to weak ones in the spring. Or I use those frames to feed to swarms I catch.  Get lots of calls every spring.
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"Good will is the desire to have something else stronger and more beautiful for this desire makes oneself stronger and more beautiful." - Eli Siegel, American educator, poet, founder of Aesthetic Realism
Finski
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« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2012, 01:37:35 PM »

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I take almost all honeyoff from hives. Then i feed them with 2:1 syrup with 8 litre feeder.

One box hive needs 16 litres syrup and  2- box hive needs  25 litres.

One box hive cannot take more.

2- box hive can take more but then I am in trouble after winter when I have too much winterfood in combs.

My hives use on average 20 kg sugar. But hives are insulated. Noninsulated hives use 50% more winter food.

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Parksguyy
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« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2012, 02:34:49 PM »

Thanks guys,
These are first year hives which we got late in June.  Two are doing well but the other two are light.
I'm hoping that this will safeguard them over the winter.  Next season I have no intention of feeding if I don't have too ... obviously, natural bees seem to make it though the winter.  All these hives have some undrawn frames still, and one has a couple of completely empty drawn foundation ... kinda hoping they have been able to draw more comb but won't know until the weekend when we inspect.  I really don't want to get into a backfilling condition ... not sure what I would be looking for if that happens ... can someone explain that.  Thanks 
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Finski
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« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2012, 03:16:39 PM »

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Have you restricted the hive room to proper size for cluster. It is very essetial to do before feeding.

You bees will not be more natural if you winter  bees with honey.
The secret in wintering  is pollen. Sugar and honey gives only energy.

.domestic animals are never natural.

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Michael Bush
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« Reply #9 on: September 19, 2012, 09:18:27 AM »

None... but then I guess I didn't give them any... Smiley
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
Vance G
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« Reply #10 on: September 20, 2012, 10:23:38 AM »

Finski, I will take your advice over most people.   Please tell me more about pollen being the secret.  Do you feed pollen substitute or does your area just have lots of it the bees store in the fall?   I got stupid and started thirty splits on old second hand comb and they all developed AFB.  I have shaken them on to foundation and have been feeding them all they will take and should have another month to get them up to weight.  How late do I keep the pollen patties on them?
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sawdstmakr
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« Reply #11 on: September 20, 2012, 11:31:19 AM »

None, same as Michael, I didn't give them any. May have to feed a couple of July splits but I think they will have enough food coming in this month.
Jim
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DLMKA
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« Reply #12 on: September 20, 2012, 11:38:09 AM »

I use hive top feeders from Dadant and I can put 2 gal in it and within 24 hours the bees have moved it down into the hive.  I always wait a minimum of a week for them to cure it down and then move it to where they want before giving them more.  I figure for 2 gallons of 5:3 I end up adding about 14 lbs the the weight of the hive after it's cured to 18%.
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