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Author Topic: Need help locating the colony's location  (Read 2062 times)
specialkayme
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« on: July 25, 2012, 07:38:24 PM »

Below are some pictures. The owner wasn't home, but granted me access to the outside. She told me they were in her "chimney" about 7 feet up. Looks like closer to ten by my count. But close enough. The brick had me a little concerned.

But, I can tell where the entrance is (obviously). The entrance is approximately the same height as the ceiling of the first floor. So I'm not sure if they built the colony in that chimney type structure, or if they moved inside the home in-between the floor joists.

I'd like to quote her a price on the removal. If they are on the outside, and I can remove that white trim and the shingles and get to it, it won't be too costly. If I have to go in from the living room or one of the bedrooms, that's going to make things more difficult and more time intensive. I'd also prefer to have SOME kinda idea before I start tearing open the side of her home. I'll probably tell her "it's likely here, but could be there, don't know until I get in there." But it's good to get some second opinions.

any thoughts?

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20120725_180202.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20120725_180148.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20120725_180018.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20120725_175926.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20120725_175934.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20120725_175926.jpg
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iddee
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« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2012, 07:51:55 PM »

The shingles are nailed to a sheet of plywood. Use a flat wrecking bar and lift the plywood along the front edge. Use a flashlight to look into the open space under the shingles. They are most likely there. If not, then you worry about going into the house.
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hardwood
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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2012, 08:09:49 PM »

Ditto.
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specialkayme
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« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2012, 09:08:15 PM »

If that area was a chimney, I didn't think there would be a void space under the plywood. But no harm in peeking. Thanks guys.
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affreux
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« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2012, 09:16:48 PM »

In the chimney, but I would shoot with a heat gun to look for the hot spot.
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Sparky
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« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2012, 09:18:22 PM »

WOW !! that carpenter was way off on their measurement to leave that kind of gap between the trim and the brick and didn't even caulk it. As mentioned about the looking under and on the side of caution, if you had a red light or lens cover the bees will not try to get you like they will when using a regular flashlight.
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iddee
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« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2012, 09:20:07 PM »

No problem with the flashlight in the daytime. Only at night.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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specialkayme
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« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2012, 10:16:40 PM »

No heat gun. I wish I had one, but it's a toy that I can't justify affording right now.
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jaseemtp
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« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2012, 10:19:44 PM »

If you can spend a few bucks, I purchased one from Lowes, I think it was $40.  Its just a hand held gun with a red light and helps me locate the ladies.  Not always 100% but every little bit helps.  I agree with every one else.  They are most likely in the space below the shingles
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specialkayme
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« Reply #9 on: July 25, 2012, 10:33:20 PM »

My assumption is those things are not that accurate on brick . . in the summer . . . during the day, right?
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jaseemtp
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« Reply #10 on: July 25, 2012, 10:55:06 PM »

Yep that is correct. Normally I am
Not looking for them behind brick though. It does work well finding them behind Sheetrock and wooden surfaces.
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« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2012, 12:54:02 AM »

No heat gun. I wish I had one, but it's a toy that I can't justify affording right now.


you must be thinking FLIR!  yeah we all want that.. but heres what someone else was referring to.

http://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-laser-thermometer-96451.html

on sale now!  I find them useful inside paneling and sheetrock.  brick not so much..
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specialkayme
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« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2012, 07:15:54 AM »

Yeah, I was thinking FLIR, lol.

I may get one for future cut-outs, but I think it would probably be best to just crack open the plywood and take a look first. At least on this one.

I will likely need to purchase a ladder and bee vac for this job. I'd prefer to keep expenses to a minimum as a result.
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iddee
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« Reply #13 on: July 26, 2012, 08:48:46 AM »

Is this job in Raleigh, Greensboro, or inbetween?
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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specialkayme
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« Reply #14 on: July 26, 2012, 07:40:54 PM »

Greensboro
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iddee
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« Reply #15 on: July 26, 2012, 08:28:04 PM »

I have ladders and bee vac. Come see me.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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« Reply #16 on: July 26, 2012, 08:59:03 PM »

I have ladders and bee vac. Come see me.

Very nice.

-Liz
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specialkayme
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« Reply #17 on: July 26, 2012, 09:27:20 PM »

Thanks Iddee. I have to lock down the job first though. I thought about quoting her $275 to do the job. If it's just under the plywood, I think it's a little high. But if it ends up being behind a wall, or in-between a floor joist, I think it's on the low side. The risk I think is fair to both. What do you think? Plus, that's about what it would cost for me to get a bee vac and ladder. If I borrow from you (which I greatly appreciate), I would need it eventually on future jobs (assuming they come).
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iddee
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« Reply #18 on: July 26, 2012, 10:09:46 PM »

I get a minimum 300 for any removal. That one I would add anything over 4 hours would be an additional 100 per hour. It is better to lower your price when done than to raise it when it is more than you expected. It is not going to be an easy one. I also have scaffolding if you want to do it safely. This time of year, you and 2 helpers could be in the 90 plus heat for 6 or more hours. Think about it carefully.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
specialkayme
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« Reply #19 on: July 27, 2012, 07:10:30 AM »

Thanks for the input. I'll probably quote her $300 for the removal, then $75 an hour over 4 hours. I know it's less than you charge, but I think you have much more experience, and theoretically can move much faster at it. If it ends up being 4.5 or 5 hours, I'll likely just keep it at the $300, but won't tell her that till I'm done.

I'll let her know the quote, and see where it goes. I'll be in touch about borrowing a ladder and/or a bee vac. Thanks so much for the help.
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iddee
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« Reply #20 on: July 27, 2012, 07:28:20 AM »

I agree. It's the PR, not the price.

Quote 200 and charge 300 equals very mad customer.
Quote 400 and charge 300 equals very happy customer.
The price of 300 means nothing. The PR is everything.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
wayne
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« Reply #21 on: July 29, 2012, 09:53:35 PM »

  From the looks of the structure that is an electric or gas fireplace.
  In either case it will be flat on top and the roof portion covers an opening that extends down around the insert.
  It should be attached to the wall, and the top of the sides, with cap plates attached to the brick. There may, or may not, be a piece of plywood that covers the top of the opening under the framing.
  In a perfect world the bees will be attached to the top or the framing across the opening. Worst case they will be down inside the walls around the insert.
  The framing should be a triangle of 2X4s at each end and either another or a single rafter down the center. You may be able to get a side off to get access for an inspection, but if you remove the top it will be all but impossible to get it back without re-roofing it to prevent leaks.
  Two handy tools for me are a stethiscope and a box nail puller.
  I would open the side away from the entrance and have a look see.
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iddee
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« Reply #22 on: July 29, 2012, 10:13:48 PM »

Wayne, you have a perfect description of how it's built, but the shingles are nailed to plywood. You can pry the plywood, shingles, and all up 1/2 to 1 in. and see in the whole area. Then just tap the roof back down and you have disturbed nothing. No reason to open the side.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
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« Reply #23 on: July 30, 2012, 09:50:54 AM »

specialkayme,

Don't leave us hanging!;)  Where'd the hive end up hiding? Pictures?
« Last Edit: July 31, 2012, 09:26:21 AM by D Coates » Logged

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specialkayme
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« Reply #24 on: July 30, 2012, 10:10:55 PM »

Nothing left to tell so far. Client hasn't called me back, or given me the thumbs up to crack open the roof. Still trying to get up with her though.
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