Welcome, Guest

Author Topic: Winter insulation  (Read 6384 times)

Offline Finsky

  • Super Bee
  • *****
  • Posts: 2791
  • Gender: Male
Winter insulation
« Reply #20 on: September 12, 2005, 12:28:05 AM »
Quote from: Kris^


Our winter winds tend to come from the north.  For instance, the northern interior of our home is often colder than the rest of the house.


Surely it does because sun is on opposite side. But the hive radiates warm outside from it's all parts. And the night is mostly cold. At spring the difference between minimum and maximum may be 15-20C.

Winter comes from north? Nver heard. It comes because globe runs round the sun in such an position.


The measure of radiation of the sum makes winter and summer.



When we have insulation regulation to homes and buildings, surely they not have different thicknes to diffrenet side walls. The very important direction is the ceiling, because warm air rise upp.

Quote


The sugar board, a solid block of sugar candy, was mainly insurance that there would be food for them if they ran out of stores in early spring.


That kind of food is the worst you can give to bees. It makes them dirsty.

I have long winter. I give sugar solution to 2 box hive 18 liters. In March bee makes their cleansing flight and soon I tseck do they have weight= sugar left. If not, I give capped frames from other hives.

If you have in home yard hives, you can give them 10 liters sugar liquid.

In Finland many use dry sugar at spring but I do not know why.

I still repeat what I have said many times.

there is no sence to

1) feed nucs or hives at summer all the time, because it fills little hive and queen cannot lay eggs enough.

2) feed all the winter. No sence. Bees do not die if you give at autum food proper measure.

If you have snow and cold winter, why don't you use insulated hives. It saves food 30% during winter and speed upp spring development really well.

Offline bassman1977

  • "King Bee"
  • Super Bee
  • *****
  • Posts: 1788
  • Gender: Male
Winter insulation
« Reply #21 on: September 29, 2005, 09:10:47 PM »
I made a vent similar to what Archie suggested.  I built a frame about 2 inches tall (it's what I had laying around) and drilled holes all around it.  I then took aluminum mesh screen and stapled it about 1/4 inch below the air holes.  I hope it works as planned.  It fit loose on top of the inner cover so I got a strap and tied the whole hive together.  Bees are still able to get up into it because the slot is open in the inner cover.  I don't see this to be a problem.  I hope not anyway.  Pray for my bees this winter.   :P
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(''')_(''')

Offline Michael Bush

  • Universal Bee
  • *******
  • Posts: 14865
  • Gender: Male
    • bushfarms.com
Winter insulation
« Reply #22 on: September 30, 2005, 11:47:39 AM »
An upper entrance in the winter is always a good thing.  It means a pile of dead bees won't trap them.  A foot of snow on the ground won't trap them.  And it means some more of the wet air can get out.
Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm en espanol: bushfarms.com/es_bees.htm  auf deutsche: bushfarms.com/de_bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
-------------------
"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen

Offline Finsky

  • Super Bee
  • *****
  • Posts: 2791
  • Gender: Male
Winter insulation
« Reply #23 on: October 02, 2005, 05:24:19 PM »
Quote from: Michael Bush
An upper entrance in the winter is always a good thing.  It means a pile of dead bees won't trap them. .


Yes, this is important!

Also open space between lower entrance and snow is important. If snow is wet and hive is inside snow, nosema will kill more bees than without snow.

Offline ApisM

  • New Bee
  • *
  • Posts: 47
  • Gender: Male
Winter insulation
« Reply #24 on: October 14, 2005, 12:33:08 AM »
I manage to get my colonies through extended periods of -40 F.  I insulate with styrofoam and drill a 3/8 inch hole in the top super.  Moisture is the killer, not cold!
It is easier to catch flies with honey than with vinegar

Offline Finsky

  • Super Bee
  • *****
  • Posts: 2791
  • Gender: Male
Winter insulation
« Reply #25 on: October 14, 2005, 02:23:01 AM »
Quote from: ApisM
I manage to get my colonies through extended periods of -40 F.  I insulate with styrofoam and drill a 3/8 inch hole in the top super.  Moisture is the killer, not cold!


We have talken too little about insulation. Cold does not kill if hive has enough food but insulation is value of gold because in warm hives colony developes at spring more quickly and is able to catch honey earlier.

I have noticed truly when I start to warm upp hives with terrarium heaters. And what is amazing, the biggest hives get best advantage from heating.

Offline qa33010

  • Field Bee
  • ***
  • Posts: 919
  • Gender: Male
Winter insulation
« Reply #26 on: October 15, 2005, 05:56:04 AM »
Hi Finsky!

     Do you use a pad on the bottom or is it a tube set in the corner or a reflector type (old)that sits on top?

David
Everyone said it couldn't be done. But he with a chuckle replied, "I won't be one to say it is so, until I give it a try."  So he buckled right in with a trace of a grin.  If he had a worry he hid it and he started to sing as he tackled that thing that couldn't be done, and he did it.  (unknown)

manowar422

  • Guest
Winter insulation
« Reply #27 on: October 15, 2005, 12:06:22 PM »

Offline qa33010

  • Field Bee
  • ***
  • Posts: 919
  • Gender: Male
Winter insulation
« Reply #28 on: October 16, 2005, 06:16:46 AM »
Thanks manowar422!!!

    I don't need it here, but IF I move back up north with the family It's nice to have info available.

David
Everyone said it couldn't be done. But he with a chuckle replied, "I won't be one to say it is so, until I give it a try."  So he buckled right in with a trace of a grin.  If he had a worry he hid it and he started to sing as he tackled that thing that couldn't be done, and he did it.  (unknown)