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Author Topic: decided to build deeps today. i found it to be not worth it.  (Read 4880 times)
Poppi
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« Reply #20 on: December 26, 2011, 08:51:49 PM »

Just an FYI...   I always check the seams on the boxes and any surface that will be inside the hive looking for possible SHB hiding places...  I run a bead of wood putty, smooth it with my finger and use a sanding sponge to remove what little roughness might remain...  just an added thing, only takes a few seconds.
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Intheswamp
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« Reply #21 on: December 29, 2011, 09:55:23 AM »

swamp we live in the south and the only thing i cansee inthe advantage of inner covers here is another place for betttles to have another place to enjoy. every beekeeper i know down here use migratory.  i have a few that i use when i run out, but as soon as i go by with an extra in my truck, i swap it out
Interesting, Bud, thanks for the feedback.  Around here, the limited yards that I've seen (only a few hobby/sideliner yards) use pretty much telescoping tops and inner covers.  In studying equipment I came to the conclusion that the migratory tops (for a stationary yard) worked well for dry climates but the telescoping tops worked best for wet climates.  Granted, we have some dry times around here, but we also get some heavy rains and wet spells to come through.  Apparently the migratory tops work ok in sealing the tops, otherwise why would folks use them so much...and they're much less expen$ive.  I'm definitely game at trying them, though my mentor might raise an eyebrow (he already has a few times so he's use to it Smiley ). 

It seems without a frame work going around all the way around the top that the top might warp.  Are there any issues with that?  Got any tips on using them?

Thanks!
Ed
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divemaster1963
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« Reply #22 on: December 29, 2011, 07:49:58 PM »

It seems without a frame work going around all the way around the top that the top might warp.  Are there any issues with that?  Got any tips on using them?

Thanks!
Ed
[/quote]

What I use is a 3/4 x 3/4 scrap wood at each end. that keeps it from warping and a good coat of paint on all edges. ( just make sure the grains are opposite each other.)
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Intheswamp
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« Reply #23 on: December 29, 2011, 09:31:01 PM »

divemaster, are you using 1-by for the field of the top or plywood?  I'm trying to figure out the "grain opposite each other" part.  Huh?

Thanks!
Ed
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www.beeweather.com 
American blood spilled to protect the freedom and peace of people all over the world.  320,000 USA casualties in WWI, 1,076,000 USA casualties in WWII, 128,000 USA casualties in the Korean War, 211,000 casualties in the Vietnam "conflict", 57,000 USA casualties in "War on Terror".  Benghazi, Libya, 13 USA casualties. These figures don't include 70,000 MIA.  But, the leaders of one political party of the United States of America continue to make the statement..."What difference does it make?".

"We can't expect the American People to jump from Capitalism to Communism, but we can assist their elected leaders in giving them small doses of Socialism, until they awaken one day to find that they have Communism."..."The press is our chief ideological weapon." - Nikita Khrushchev

"Always go to other people’s funerals, otherwise they wont come to yours." - Yogi Berra
divemaster1963
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« Reply #24 on: December 30, 2011, 11:26:01 PM »

divemaster, are you using 1-by for the field of the top or plywood?  I'm trying to figure out the "grain opposite each other" part.  Huh?

Thanks!
Ed
If your using plywood. use the 3/4 thick and just attach the strips at the overhang on the long end. then paint. that will keep it from warping for a few years until they need repainting. If using solid wood. check the wood for the crown thenface then down and attach the strips across the grain if using multiple peaces if solid peace face the crown down and attach the stripes across the grain.. I cut mine from solid cross cuts of redoak trees 1 1/2 in thick then dry in my kiln then plain to 3/4 then seal with clear. looks great and they will last forever. never had one warp.
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Joe D
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« Reply #25 on: January 13, 2012, 08:56:06 PM »

Hi All

I am a new bee and maybe messing up(nothing new there), but I am building deep boxes out of 3/4 plywood.  At $17.00 a sheet, I should get almost 6 boxes, ballpark $3.00 a box.  This isn't a chain hardware store,it's local.  They also have a good grade paint stick also I used in frames instead of fondation, takes 3 sticks to do 4 frames.  They are 300 sticks for $6.00.

Joe
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sawdstmakr
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« Reply #26 on: January 16, 2012, 11:34:02 AM »

Hi All

I am a new bee and maybe messing up(nothing new there), but I am building deep boxes out of 3/4 plywood.  At $17.00 a sheet, I should get almost 6 boxes, ballpark $3.00 a box.  This isn't a chain hardware store,it's local.  They also have a good grade paint stick also I used in frames instead of fondation, takes 3 sticks to do 4 frames.  They are 300 sticks for $6.00.

Joe

I would like to see pictures of those frames. Sounds interesting.
Jim
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don2
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« Reply #27 on: January 16, 2012, 10:13:23 PM »

If you can find a supplier that carries seconds or rejects, a crack or hole now and then, $5 for medium and $7 for deeps. un assembled. :)don2
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ronwhite3030
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« Reply #28 on: January 17, 2012, 12:15:11 PM »

I also wonder about using plywood for supers and hive bodies because even if they dont last as long as pine but its alright to use I have all the plywood in the plywood I need at my disposal.
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