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Author Topic: anti skunk/ badger hive stand?  (Read 1695 times)
derekm
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« on: October 08, 2011, 01:22:16 PM »

I have a design for a hive stand that be of use to those who wish to make things more difficult for predators. The central pole with the hive over hanging makes it difficult for animals to  climb/ reach the hive. To deter crawling insects, mice and rats grease the central pole.

« Last Edit: October 08, 2011, 02:31:26 PM by derekm » Logged

If they increased energy bill for your home by a factor of 4.5 would you consider that cruel? If so why are you doing that to your bees?
BlueBee
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« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2011, 01:27:18 PM »

How deep do I have to dig a hole to bury the pole?  Is it going to lean like Pisa when it’s loaded with honey?  I like the idea, but sounds like it could be a lot of work to install this thing?
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derekm
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« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2011, 01:42:51 PM »

How deep do I have to dig a hole to bury the pole?  Is it going to lean like Pisa when it’s loaded with honey?  I like the idea, but sounds like it could be a lot of work to install this thing?
you dont bury it!  you just place it on top of concrete paving , hard earth - note the carefully designed three legged base. It withstands  me standing on top of it and it remains stiff, while I sway around on top.
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If they increased energy bill for your home by a factor of 4.5 would you consider that cruel? If so why are you doing that to your bees?
BlueBee
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« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2011, 02:39:47 PM »

Thanks Derekm, now I see the photo.  I like it!

Did you weld it yourself?  MIG?  ARC?  Made from iron?
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derekm
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« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2011, 03:23:01 PM »

mild steel 16 swg tube I had as offcuts from other projects, tig welded as the mig welder is not working at the moment.
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If they increased energy bill for your home by a factor of 4.5 would you consider that cruel? If so why are you doing that to your bees?
Michael Bush
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« Reply #5 on: October 08, 2011, 09:04:36 PM »

It's much easier to block the bottom entrance and put two shims under the cover for a top entrance...
http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopentrance.htm

My stands are all 3 1/2" tall... except for slopes, where they run from 3 1/2" to whatever...
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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derekm
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« Reply #6 on: October 09, 2011, 03:13:41 PM »

It's much easier to block the bottom entrance and put two shims under the cover for a top entrance...
http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopentrance.htm

My stands are all 3 1/2" tall... except for slopes, where they run from 3 1/2" to whatever...


My hives being 18" up dont get grass, mice, ants,  earwigs,  or other creepy crawlies in them. Bees prefer 15ft up (5M) I think its best to be only one decimal point out.
I have Top vents  open when temperatures rise high enough to require it to reduce fanning, but no top entrance, definitely not in winter.
The height of these stands was  determined by a good working level for inspecting the brood box.  I dont have back trouble but I'm willing to spend inorder not to go there. The anti-pest  benefits were a bonus... but maybe worth it for others
« Last Edit: October 09, 2011, 03:24:16 PM by derekm » Logged

If they increased energy bill for your home by a factor of 4.5 would you consider that cruel? If so why are you doing that to your bees?
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