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Author Topic: Nuc frame size/Bee vac/box alignment jig. question(s).  (Read 1255 times)
JackM
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« on: October 06, 2011, 09:04:58 AM »

Can't seem to find what I am looking for in search so,

I am using all medium supers.  Considering a nuc in the spring over a package, but aware I need to trade frames.  But, what are the frames used in a nuc, are they all deeps?  By looking at any nuc plans I have seen, they must be deeps only?  Or just make/get a whole nuc to trade?

So how would that work, other than getting 5 deeps to trade, how would I get that converted to my mediums?  I am hoping to catch a swarm or cutout in the spring to get some feral influence. 

On to bee vac.  Building one to attach to my medium supers, and will use a vacant medium super(s) as my retrieval area, so all I need to do is walk away from a retrieval with a closed up hive after removing the vac attachment.  In my research, I picked up on the caution about too much suction, good point and all, and I wonder if anyone has used a foam (1/8) filter to protect the bees from damage as they are suctioned in the box?  Or, a furnace filter?  By the way, if it is a big enough box, they should not feel much suction once inside it.  Mine will have a 10' bee suction hose, a 5 foot vac to box hose.  I have a generator already, so I can go anywhere I can drive my truck.  I am disabled so I have limitations I have to take into consideration. 

That same box can be used as a frame holder at other times.

Lastly, I figure if I make a jig so that every box gets the same hole in the same place so it all matches in the end....but place just short dowels in either 2 or 4 corners, just sticking up 1/4 inch or so, very rounded on top with a matching hole on the bottom of the box to line things up when you set it down.  Even empty for me, I find I want a guide.  Anyone ever done that?  Will propolis just muggle it all up?

Back to reading Michael's book and re-read another.  Rain again today.  Thanks for taking the time, I hope I wasn't too confusing.
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VolunteerK9
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« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2011, 10:41:10 AM »


I am using all medium supers.  Considering a nuc in the spring over a package, but aware I need to trade frames.  But, what are the frames used in a nuc, are they all deeps?  By looking at any nuc plans I have seen, they must be deeps only?  Or just make/get a whole nuc to trade?


Most, not all, bee suppliers sell nucs in a 5 frame-deep configuration but some have started selling them in the medium frame size (usually at the same price as a deep though)

On to bee vac.



I have never used one, but here's another good starting link:

http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/bee-vac/


Lastly, I figure if I make a jig so that every box gets the same hole in the same place so it all matches in the end....but place just short dowels in either 2 or 4 corners, just sticking up 1/4 inch or so, very rounded on top with a matching hole on the bottom of the box to line things up when you set it down.  Even empty for me, I find I want a guide.  Anyone ever done that?  Will propolis just muggle it all up?

 
That one may be a bad idea. The bees may propolize it to the point of not being able to seperate the boxes at all. There shouldnt be much of a problem in lining everything up. It doesnt need to be precise, just close. The bees wont care at all.
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derekm
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« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2011, 04:46:10 PM »

bee vacuum- make the last few feet of hose a much large diameter, that slows the air  flow velocity just before they enter the box.
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If they increased energy bill for your home by a factor of 4.5 would you consider that cruel? If so why are you doing that to your bees?
Michael Bush
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« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2011, 01:18:54 AM »

>I am using all medium supers.  Considering a nuc in the spring over a package, but aware I need to trade frames.  But, what are the frames used in a nuc, are they all deeps?  By looking at any nuc plans I have seen, they must be deeps only?  Or just make/get a whole nuc to trade?

Some people sell medium nucs.  All suppliers pretty much now have medium nuc boxes.

>So how would that work, other than getting 5 deeps to trade, how would I get that converted to my mediums?  I am hoping to catch a swarm or cutout in the spring to get some feral influence.

Buy a package.

>On to bee vac. 

I've never killed more bees by not using a vacuum than I have by using one.  I can't see the purpose.

>Lastly, I figure if I make a jig so that every box gets the same hole in the same place so it all matches in the end....but place just short dowels in either 2 or 4 corners, just sticking up 1/4 inch or so, very rounded on top with a matching hole on the bottom of the box to line things up when you set it down.  Even empty for me, I find I want a guide.  Anyone ever done that?  Will propolis just muggle it all up?

It will only make life harder, not easier.  The boxes will all get glued anyway and now you have more work lining things up.  Plus the typical way to set a box on while minimizing squishing bees, is to set it on at an angle and slowly rotate it into place.  That way it only sets down on four small points and the bees have much more chance to get out of the way.  You will kill a lot of bees and make your life a lot harder and accomplish nothing with the dowels.
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
gregted
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« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2011, 05:34:26 PM »

I have started to make some nucs as per Coates design. You can use scrap ply at whatever thickness you can find. Mine are out of 9 mm and seem strong enough once glued and nailed.

I think it will cost you much more to buy one and if you want a different height, you can build whatever you need.

I would suggest using a straight edge as a guide to get your cuts straight so the joins won't have gaps for beetles etc..

I am also setting up a gantry and boat winch to assist loading and unloading of boxes on the back of m ute.

Hope this helps.
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