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Author Topic: Staple guns for frames and nail guns for Supers whats the best?  (Read 6452 times)
squidink
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« on: September 30, 2011, 06:17:15 AM »

Hi Peoples,

Im starting to make quite a few frames with foundation from scratch and asembling supers/bodies.
I now have over 10 hives.

My questions are;

Whats the best Staple gun to use on frames? ie electric, gas, air etc?

Whats the best nail gun to use for supers, bottoms and roofs?

Is there a good single tool that will work well on both?

Im using the nail and hammer approach for frames (and wood glue) and with the supers I am doing pilot holes and running 50mm scews to join it all together..

I am a chef by trade so building tool knowledge is not my forte!

Thanks,

Ben
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prestonpaul
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« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2011, 07:43:52 AM »

Where in Melbourne are you? I am just starting up as well and used a narrow crown (1/4 inch I think) air stapler for frames and glued and screwed the boxes (Rabeted type) The air stapler is a godsend, I already had it from another project, bought it from Aldi when they had them but Bunnings have them as well. I couldn't imagine nailing frames together, I think I would still be out in the garage  grin I plan on using it on the next supers I build as well. I'll use finger jointed supers next time and staples will be more enough. I only used rabeted boxes last time as that was all that was available. I used the staple gun for the top and base with a few screws for good measure. I can't remember what size staples  I used but I can find out if you are interested.
Hope that helps.
Paul.
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troutstalker2
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« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2011, 07:49:53 AM »

   I bought an electric brad nailer for frames. It was a great time saving investment. As far as the supers go, I don't mind nailing them together by hand. I'm sure a pneumatic nailer would be better and maybe more versatile, but 60 bucks verses 200 and I probably would not use the air nailer for anything else but honey frames, I just bought an electric.
  By the way, does squidink refer to pasta. I too am a chef by trade....David
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squidink
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« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2011, 08:32:08 AM »

Hi Paul, I am in Nunawading. What brand and model is the air stapler your using? I have got myself in a great rythem putting the frames together with a hammer and nails but I think i could reduce the time down to 1/4! Specially this season i wish to nock out some more hives..

Hi David a fellow chef! what brand/model electric nailer are you using for the frames?

thank for the feedback fella's!

cheers Ben

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Hemlock
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« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2011, 08:49:31 AM »

For frames;
A small pneumatic nail & staple gun with a 125 psi compressor has worked for me over the last 3 years.  I use 1.5 inch staples.

Supers;
Nails, hammer, & wood glue.  Screws are fine but a box joint is already strong.  The nails just keep it in place.
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JP
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« Reply #5 on: September 30, 2011, 08:55:22 AM »

Ben, I use 1" staples on my frames, if you add glue that's even better albeit more time consuming. On woodenware I use 1.5" staples and glue.


...JP
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« Reply #6 on: September 30, 2011, 11:07:31 AM »

i do what JP does and sometimes i use glue also.  trying to be better about that.  i have a pneumatic nailer/stapler and i use nails on the boxes.  i have never had a box come undone, but i nail all the way down both sides.
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« Reply #7 on: September 30, 2011, 11:12:41 AM »

Ditto what Jp said except I glue both frames and hive bodies. The glue I use is Titebond II.
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sawdstmakr
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« Reply #8 on: September 30, 2011, 11:26:19 AM »

I don't know if you are already doing this but I stack 20 side pieces together and use a $.10 glue brush to put the glue on all 20 at once then I start nailing them together. I use a deep super with 1/4" boards stapled across the ends, one just below the rabbet and one about 3 or 4"s down. As I nail them I slide them in the super and it holds them square until they are dried. I did this after finding the first set of frames touching the sides of the super, meaning your bee space is very hap hazard.
Jim
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« Reply #9 on: September 30, 2011, 01:13:13 PM »

Perfect for frames and boxes but you have to use a strong wood glue like Titebond III with the staples.
I have two of them. One I hold 1" staples for frames, the other 1 1/2" for boxes with dado joints.

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R150FSA-Stapler/index.htm
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« Reply #10 on: October 01, 2011, 07:07:57 AM »

Ben, I use 1" staples on my frames, if you add glue that's even better albeit more time consuming. On woodenware I use 1.5" staples and glue.

Does the same stapler hold both sized staples? If so, which brand do you recommend, JP?

When it comes to frames, I'm ready to start using staples rather than nails.

And although I think I'll stick with nails when it comes to assembling supers, I want to staple supers and bottom boards together on site at cutouts...perhaps that means I can't use an air-powered stapler?

-Liz
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« Reply #11 on: October 01, 2011, 09:50:27 AM »

Liz, I purchased a Porter Cable combo kit which included air compressor, hose, a 16 gauge brad nailer, 18 gauge brad nailer and a 1" narrow crown stapler. I purchased mine from H.D. on sale for $299.00. Yes, all that for $299.00! http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/porter-cable/products/PC3PAK.asp?CAWELAID=829718196

I wanted to staple my supers together so I also purchased a Rigid (H.D. brand) crown stapler that would take a 1.5" stapler. http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R150FSA-Stapler/index.htm  Any brand will likely do fine.


...JP
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rober
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« Reply #12 on: October 01, 2011, 10:29:50 AM »

i'm a carpenter & already had a framing gun, 2 trim guns, a brad gun, & a staple gun. all are Sencos. my original reason for buying senco was that they have a luggage type latch that opens the nose for clearing jammed nails. most others require disassembly. all guns sooner or later will jam now & again. i find my guns have fewer problems when i buy senco brand nails instead og generic nails. also an oil type compressor will outlive the oil-less types like the porter cable units sold on the big box stores. BUT if all you are using it for is to build hives an oil-less compressor should last a long time. my compressor is used almost daily.
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prestonpaul
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« Reply #13 on: October 01, 2011, 11:51:54 PM »

Hi Paul, I am in Nunawading. What brand and model is the air stapler your using?

Hi Ben.
The stapler is Aldi's generic house brand. I got it from there when they had air tools on special. Bunnings have a similar one, brand is Trade Air if I remembr correctly. It's a narrow crown stapler. I used 22mm staples for the frames and the longest ones they had for everything else. They are probably not the best quality tools, but certainly work well enough for a hobbyist.
Paul.
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prestonpaul
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« Reply #14 on: October 02, 2011, 11:42:16 PM »

Went to Bunnings yesterday, the one they have is almost identical to mine, it's a Project Air 2 in 1 nailer/stapler, sells for 69.98 shoots narrow crown staples from 16mm to 28mm.
Paul.
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squidink
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« Reply #15 on: October 03, 2011, 07:00:11 AM »

Thanks fella's!

I just borrowed a Ozito staple gun just for the frames and its working a treat!

I punched out 30 frames last night!

Ben
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« Reply #16 on: August 30, 2012, 08:52:00 AM »


I wanted to staple my supers together so I also purchased a Rigid (H.D. brand) crown stapler that would take a 1.5" stapler. http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R150FSA-Stapler/index.htm  Any brand will likely do fine.

...JP


JP are you still stapling your supers? I have a bunch of supers to put together and I want to leave the hammer and nail behind. Stapling would be much faster!

...DOUG
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duck
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« Reply #17 on: August 30, 2012, 06:21:47 PM »

Thanks fella's!

I just borrowed a Ozito staple gun just for the frames and its working a treat!

I punched out 30 frames last night!

Ben

wait until you build a frame jig, I can bang thirty in 5-6 minutes.
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hardwood
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« Reply #18 on: August 30, 2012, 09:35:07 PM »

Here's the way I assemble frames.

Frame jig.wmv


Scott
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« Reply #19 on: August 30, 2012, 11:13:51 PM »

Scott,

I'm a new bee and really like your frame jig.  I notice that the large jig is way taller than the small jig (which you said was made of 2x4's.)  I see the large jig will hold the frames in a standing, vertical position while you work.  Does the small jig hold the frames upright too?   huh
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