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Author Topic: Skunk Problems  (Read 2667 times)
CapnChkn
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« Reply #20 on: August 16, 2011, 04:35:03 PM »

Yepper BlueBee!  That is a robber screen.  I made it in a frenzy, having problems with the robbers.  At least I think I was having problems with robbers.  In August of 2010 I ended up with a queenless hive due to robbing.  This year in April I had signs of robbing, but can't really tell you what caused them to abscond, the way they did, as I had SHB larvae crawling through the combs.

If robbing was the issue, I have had good success with the robber screens.  The construction is simply window screen in a frame with the full bottom and top open.  I have blocks with a single bee width opening to fill the top when I start them on it, then before they start gnawing on the hive body I can pull it out, effectively leaving a 3/8 x 10" (9 x 250 mm) opening for them to get in and out.

With the heat we get here, I can't subject the bees to that kind of abuse.  I have reduced entrances with the SBB in place, but the robber screens still get used.

In this image there was a block in both the top and bottom (or because of orientation, right and left sides.).


I'm sure skunks would get antsy about fooling around in an area that gave you mysterious zapping.  If it works on Bears, Horses, and Cattle, it should work on Skunks.  The problem I have with the idea is having to mow under a 6 inch fence.  Another thing to use would be a motion detector type sprinkler.  The bees might have to learn to swim though...

Original Motion-Activated Sprinkler vs. Pigeons
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"Thinking is like sin, them that doesn't is scairt of it, and them that does gets to liking it so much they can't quit!"  -Josh Billings.
Michael Bush
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« Reply #21 on: August 18, 2011, 01:13:25 PM »

I just went to top entrances only and have had no issues with skunks mice, tall grass or snow since...
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
BlueBee
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« Reply #22 on: August 18, 2011, 08:47:31 PM »

I agree with Michael that top entrances solve a lot of problems, including skunk problems.  I DO use top entrances on about half my hives.  However when I’m using foam insulation over a wood hive, it has been easier to implement the foam insulation system using bottom entrances.  Think stack up tolerances!

For my nucs, I’ve now elevated them up 21” and hope that will solve those skunk issues. 

Dang skunks are a nuisance evil
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tefer2
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« Reply #23 on: August 18, 2011, 11:00:37 PM »

I have a yard where skunks were a problem and moving the hives up 16 inches off the ground solved it.
 Also learned about the small step ladder to remove those suppers too. I can't imagine starting off with 21 in.
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RayMarler
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« Reply #24 on: August 19, 2011, 06:14:08 AM »

Goto Lowes or Home Depot or your favorite lumber yard and get you some truss plates.

http://www.tooldistrict.com/product-p/8230302.htm

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Sitting in the shade, drinking lemon aid.
Enjoying the breeze while counting the bees.
kingbee
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« Reply #25 on: August 20, 2011, 09:06:25 PM »

... The Cardboard on the ground is to block the weeds.  

I figured that, but why is the upper box (the tan one) upside down?  You feeding?

One bit of advise from someone who has been there and done that, a skunk usually stands erect on its front legs with its legs in the air when it is ready to spray!!!
« Last Edit: August 21, 2011, 10:26:18 PM by kingbee » Logged
rober
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« Reply #26 on: August 21, 2011, 12:36:57 PM »

if anyone is going to trap a skunk- instead of handling the trap with a long pole here's what an old trapper taught me: take a LARGE old beach size towel or similar sized tarp & approach the trap holding the towel in front of you as a a shield. talk in low tones so as to not startle the skunk. slowly lower the towel over the trap. carry the trap to the drowning tank ( i use a wheel barrow ) put the trap in the tank ( leaving the tarp on )& fill with water. do NOT plunge the skunk into a full tank!! it WILL spray.
when you fill slowly the skunk is preoccupied with the rising water. it may leak a little stink but won't spray. using this method the skunks do not spray 99.9% of the time. if you have the stomach for it- make a shallow incision on both sides of the skunks anus & locate the 2 stink glands. remove the stink essence with a hypodermic needle & store in a glass jar. trappers will pay a premium price for bottled stink. also if you check around for the guys ( & gals ) who reenact the mountain man rendevous they will buy the pelts. i get $25.00-$40.00 per pelt. $20.00 per oz. for stink.
it is against the law to relocate animals in many states, especially racoons & skunks who are the main carriers of rabies & distemper.
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CapnChkn
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« Reply #27 on: August 21, 2011, 11:27:21 PM »

Quote
Quote from: CapnChkn on August 16, 2011, 01:46:29 PM
Quote
... The Cardboard on the ground is to block the weeds. 
I figured that, but why is the upper box (the tan one) upside down?  You feeding?
All my hives are like that.  That box is so rotten it wouldn't make a good hive body, I put it on upside down because the other part is uneven with the rot.  Under that is the inner cover, so the hive is actually one deep and one shallow.  It gives the bees some buffer space, like an attic, to help regulate temperature.  I also feed using screened holes, put ant bait and SHB traps in there, and will be packing some kind of insulation in it for the winter.
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"Thinking is like sin, them that doesn't is scairt of it, and them that does gets to liking it so much they can't quit!"  -Josh Billings.
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