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Author Topic: Box Joint Jig  (Read 2102 times)

Offline Jon McFadden

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Box Joint Jig
« on: July 10, 2005, 12:22:49 PM »
Here is the Box Joint Jig I use. It's much more precise than the miter gauge type.
http://nordykebeefarm.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18&PN=1&TPN=1
Jon, N6VC/5

Offline BigRog

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Box Joint Jig
« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2005, 01:29:42 PM »
Just from those pics I can't see how it works
"Lurch my good man,…what did you mean when you said just now that 'You've got better things to do than run my petty little errands'…….?"

Offline Jon McFadden

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Box Joint Jig
« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2005, 02:24:03 PM »
The picture shows a standard blade in the arbor. That was a mistake when I took the picture. Normally there is a dado blade set for 3/4" on the arbor. I also added a drawing. Instructions will follow.
Does that help?
Jon, N6VC/5

Offline Jerrymac

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Box Joint Jig
« Reply #3 on: July 10, 2005, 10:06:22 PM »
:rainbowflower:  Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.   :rainbowflower:

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Offline Jon McFadden

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Box Joint Jig
« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2005, 06:47:20 PM »
Jerry,
Your referenced link shows the old standard miter gauge box joint fixture.
First, everytime you replace it on the miter gauge, you need to recalibrate it. The one I made doesn't require anything except dropping it into the guides, raising the dado head to the correct height and making your joints.
The other thing that the standard miter gauge fixture won't do is a 3/8" dado for the first notch on the sides so you can have a full length rabbet. Much stronger. You'll notice on the plans that the indexing pins are 3/8" high. If the pin on the miter gauge jig were modified to 3/8" instead of 3/4", then you could do this on it, too.
I've used the type of jig you referenced for years. Trust me, if you ever use the sled type, you'll never go back to the miter gauge style.
Jon
Jon, N6VC/5