I'd think twice before using the ant/roach (Firponil) bait in the Beetle Barns. It will kill the beetles grave yard dead, but if a beetle goes in and comes out alive, it has the potential to track Fipronil pesticide residue on your honey. Further, I've yet to hear of any entomologist endorsing this method. If anyone knows of one who has, I'd like to know.
First defense against SHB is a strong colony. Other than that, I use the Beetle Jail. It uses Dr. Hood's concept except it sits in between the top bars of the frames like the Cutts Beetle Blaster as opposed to taking up a frame like the Hood trap. It has 3 compartments (2 with cider vinegar and 1 with vegetable oil).
Tests were done at Clemson University on the Freeman Trap and it worked very well. In the beginning used vegetable oil in the Freeman trap was endorsed, but I've also heard that varmints like skunks and such will yank the tray out to get at the used vegetable oil, so new oil is probably better. From what Freeman said, having a total bottom screen with no ledges for the beetles to hide on was key. I'm not sure I agree so much as I've seen how aggressively a strong hive will go after the SHB on the bottom board. So I think any screened bottom board with an oil pan would be very effective.