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Author Topic: extractor question  (Read 10709 times)
Acebird
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« Reply #60 on: January 03, 2011, 10:00:52 AM »

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Little squares above # 6 thru 9


Those squares are soft metal plates that get polarized by the coils of wire.  magnets usually implies a permanent polarization.

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its electricity-  motor needs to be isolated for safety

Look closely the barrel is plastic and the motor is mounted in wood.  Look at any power tool that states “doubly insulated”.  That means anything you touch is an insulator (usually the outside case).  Typically the appliance does not have a ground wire.
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rdy-b
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« Reply #61 on: January 03, 2011, 02:47:34 PM »

  ah come on-easy to put motor on top and be safe- cheesy RDY-B
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Acebird
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« Reply #62 on: January 03, 2011, 03:08:42 PM »

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ah come on-easy to put motor on top and be safe-

Actually, it is considerably more difficult but well within my means.  I like to develop things that the not so capable person can copy for their own use.  If the motor is mounted on top it gets in the way for loading frames, creates bearing alignment issues and makes it much more difficult to break down to service.  I got fellow beeks that have seen it and are itching to try it.  They don't like sharing their crop with someone just to use their extractor and they can't afford the commercial ones.
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rdy-b
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« Reply #63 on: January 03, 2011, 05:02:45 PM »

  even if it works to a degree-how much honey can it spin before it wears its self out
 its a novel idea -a nobel efort- but i spin several tons-and have used many many types
of spiners you will learn about what it takes -
 but heres what i would do -cut another drum down to 1/4 size-cut the botom out of the machine you have-
set your machine on top of the 1/4 drum atach with simple light chain and turn buckels-similar to existing desighns
 now you have a capture basin that you can let fill with honey-also make a cover for the motor out of somthing like a two gallon bucket and lid-now you are closer to a practical machine made safe-RDY-B
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Acebird
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« Reply #64 on: January 03, 2011, 06:29:28 PM »

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even if it works to a degree-how much honey can it spin before it wears its self out
 its a novel idea

One thing I  can guarantee is it will outlast me, seriously.

Quote
but i spin several tons-and have used many many types
of spiners you will learn about what it takes -


The average backyard beekeeper will extract less than 100 pounds of honey.  It is not designed to process tons of honey.  That has no interest for the hobbyist.  I have built machinery and process equipment that filled rooms 50x100 and as much as a half million dollar capital expenditure.  Trust me, if I wanted to build a stainless steel extractor capable of processing tons of honey it would be a cake walk for me.  Beekeeping, that's another challenge.
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rdy-b
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« Reply #65 on: January 03, 2011, 06:35:38 PM »

  everyone starts someplace -maybe you can invent somthing that will make a differance-
if you ask me what we need is a good honey stick machine-the one that comes up with that is going to be GOLDEN-RDY-B
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Acebird
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« Reply #66 on: January 03, 2011, 07:00:33 PM »

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what we need is a good honey stick machine

You have to give me a little more to go on.  I have no idea what a honey stick machine is.
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hardwood
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« Reply #67 on: January 03, 2011, 07:11:09 PM »

Google "honey sticks" or "honey straws". They're just a plastic straw filled with honey and sealed.

Scott
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rdy-b
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« Reply #68 on: January 03, 2011, 07:12:14 PM »

  Honey sticks are those STRAWS filled with honey-pepole buy them like crazy at the farm stands
 and farmers market -there are a few companys that will proces your honey into sticks-or you buy them allready made
 none the less the market is huge-problem is the only machines avalible to make any kind of quanity are priced tens of thousands of dollars-there are some tinker toy type but they just dont produce-need to fill straw with honey and seal both ends
 many ways to do this but there has been a race to perfect a cost sensable machine-under $3000 would be resoable-needs to make about 150-200 sticks an hour-and run all day -huge opertunity here- cool RDY-B
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Acebird
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« Reply #69 on: January 04, 2011, 10:13:29 AM »

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many ways to do this but there has been a race to perfect a cost sensable machine-under $3000 would be resoable-needs to make about 150-200 sticks an hour-and run all day -huge opertunity here-

If it is a food grade machine you will have the FDA involved.  That by itself will double or triple the price.

A food grade machine will require all stainless steel construction with a minimum of #4 polished surfaces.  I would suspect that you would have to heat the honey to lower the viscosity low enough to reach the fill rate of 200 sticks per hour with out going to multiple stations.  Multiple station will increase the complexity and so the cost.

Off the top of my head $3000 sounds like a bargain but if you don’t have the FDA breathing down your back or OSHA (in other words you are a small fry) you can make something that may fit your needs.  I would have to research what has already been done or is available in order to advise what could be done.

PM me if you are serious about working together.
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rdy-b
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« Reply #70 on: January 04, 2011, 02:13:26 PM »

 heres some back ground the sticky machine is not in production--they sold the paten-
guy cant get it to work for production-   http://busybeefarm.com/stickypage.htm
there are others working on there own machine-it is doable-
http://honeyrunapiaries.com/blog/category/honey-sticks
http://honeyrunapiaries.com/blog/the-sticky-machine-makes-another-appearance/109
huge opportunity- the industry needs this machine-RDY-B
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AllenF
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« Reply #71 on: January 04, 2011, 02:26:59 PM »

I bought a whole bunch of honey sticks the year before last from Brushy on a sale.    I still have a big old handful here, broke them out for Christmas for the kids.   The kids really did not go for them much back then or Christmas.   I like plain honey flavor best but have a bag of assorted flavors (or colors).  But with the market, the mark up on the honey would be worth it I believe.   I just have not found the right kids.   
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rdy-b
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« Reply #72 on: January 04, 2011, 02:41:17 PM »

I bought a whole bunch of honey sticks the year before last from Brushy on a sale.    I still have a big old handful here, broke them out for Christmas for the kids.   The kids really did not go for them much back then or Christmas.   I like plain honey flavor best but have a bag of assorted flavors (or colors).  But with the market, the mark up on the honey would be worth it I believe.   I just have not found the right kids.  
 yea brushy uses colors to match flavors-pepole want natural -and like flavorings to be real juice
 over the years the cost to buy these has risen-they cost about 7 cents-sell for 25 cents-we have buckets made up
 for local honey or by them boxes of 1000-not trying to get rich on the sales -but to have my honey made up -
its about the same 7 cents and i suply the honey-we suply 7 farmstands and do 4 farmers markets -plus festivals
 RDY-B
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ronwhite3030
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« Reply #73 on: February 04, 2011, 10:22:19 PM »

would 326 rpm's be enough to get honey out of frames? or should it be faster or slower. Thoughts please.
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AllenF
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« Reply #74 on: February 04, 2011, 11:15:49 PM »

Think about how fast it spins when you hand crank.   Buy the third box, I am lucky to have 60 rpm.
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ronwhite3030
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« Reply #75 on: February 05, 2011, 03:36:47 AM »

what do you mean by buy the third box allen?
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Acebird
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« Reply #76 on: February 05, 2011, 09:21:30 AM »

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would 326 rpm's be enough to get honey out of frames?

Centrifugal force is dependent on diameter and speed.  So the bigger the machine is the slower it can go.  Also time is a factor.  If the speed is slower it will just take more time in the spinner.  If you are not cranking it by hand time is less important because you can do something else.

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« Reply #77 on: February 05, 2011, 10:17:35 AM »

By the third box.   Good catch there teach.   Yes, I was government educated.
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ronwhite3030
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« Reply #78 on: February 05, 2011, 02:16:03 PM »

now i get ya allen, yes Acebird thanks for the comment, I have a motor that spins at 1725 rpm's if my calculations are right and I use a 1.05" pulley and a 5.5" pulley it should reduce the max rpms to approx. 330 Rpm's. you can tell me if I am wrong though, I don't want to buy the wrong stuff.
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Acebird
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« Reply #79 on: February 05, 2011, 02:45:14 PM »

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I don't want to buy the wrong stuff.

Your calculations are correct but if at all possible try to have at least two speeds.  A slow speed to start and a fast speed to finish.  The greatest amount of imbalance is going to happen when you start.  It is also not good for the motor to start with a heavy load all at once.  If you use a belt that is designed for slipage you can achieve a slow start by running the belt loose with a tensioner and then add pressure as it picks up speed.

Good luck with your project.
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