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Author Topic: extractor question  (Read 10642 times)
Jim 134
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« Reply #40 on: December 01, 2010, 04:30:36 PM »

If you have a 2010 Dadant catalog;
On the front cover a stop motion photo shows a radial extractor in use.
It gives a very clear picture of the honey being flung out both sides of the frame once it is up to speed, neat picture.

Bee-Bop


Hear is the pix

http://www.dadant.com/documents/Dadant2010BeekeepingCatalog-forWeb.pdf


        BEE HAPPY Jim 134 Smiley
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« Reply #41 on: December 01, 2010, 07:14:29 PM »

the first variable would be are you extracting radially or tangentially?  and as someone suggest the next variable is diameter of the extractor can.

as a general guide line I think fish_stix numbers looks about right.

I personally use a variable speed drill (chucked to the shaft of my extractor reel) with a variable voltage device (used in a physics lab) that allows me to get around all the gearing problems. 

can you show me a variable voltage device I can for a variable speed drill. I can't seem to find one.

If you could find a used variable frequency drive for sale for your size motor it would not need to have multiple speeds to vary the rpm.
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Acebird
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« Reply #42 on: December 02, 2010, 08:59:29 AM »

Jim I can't get the whole download (must be too large) so the pdf file goes blank.  When you download the catalog from the Dadant site you don't get the front cover.  Can someone take a pic and post it?
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« Reply #43 on: December 02, 2010, 04:58:56 PM »

I think I got it knocked now.  Here are the stainless brackets so I can turn the frames around top bar out.  I had to make eight of them.





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WPG
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« Reply #44 on: December 02, 2010, 05:24:19 PM »

WOW!!
  You can work stainless steel?!
WOW!!
  Nice work!
I'd go ahead and get all the wood parts out of the extractor.
Make your own reel, much less mess and quicker extracting.


WOW!
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Bee-Bop
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« Reply #45 on: December 02, 2010, 06:05:07 PM »

Brackets look good.

Here is a link to a pic. of the Dadant cover, not really big enough to see the honey actually being flung out.

Bee-Bop

http://www.dadant.com/
« Last Edit: December 02, 2010, 06:18:58 PM by Bee-Bop » Logged

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« Reply #46 on: December 02, 2010, 07:54:02 PM »

I like the frame flipper brackets.
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hardwood
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« Reply #47 on: December 02, 2010, 08:01:16 PM »

I gotta get me one of them spot welders! Looking good!

Scott
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Jim 134
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« Reply #48 on: December 02, 2010, 09:14:16 PM »


Acebird.....
   Reply # 30 (I probably should tell you that we refrigerate the frames)

  
  1 Cold honey  huh
  2 Top bars inward not outward  huh Fix cool
  3 Motor on bottom  huh

 Hope it works for you

     BEE HAPPY Jim  134 Smiley
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"Tell me and I'll forget,show me and I may  remember,involve me and I'll understand"
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"The farmer is the only man in our economy who buys everything at retail, sells everything at wholesale, and pays the freight both ways."
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Franklin County Beekeepers Association MA. http://www.franklinmabeekeepers.org/
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« Reply #49 on: December 03, 2010, 08:58:04 AM »

Bee Bop,

It is perfect.  Click on your link and then click on the picture of the catalog.  It shows you the first page of the catalog.  Now right click and choose zoom in.  You can see every little droplet!

thanks.

Quote

  1 Cold honey 
  2 Top bars inward not outward   Fix cool
  3 Motor on bottom 



It's going to work for me.  I can guarantee you the cold honey and the motor on the bottom is not going to be a problem.  This is the way I extracted our honey this year:



This easily got the the temperature up to  100 degrees and even at that temperature it took a long time to drip.  If worse comes to worse all I have to do it warm the honey up.  I still have this setup.
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« Reply #50 on: December 03, 2010, 09:11:06 AM »

WOW!!
  You can work stainless steel?!
WOW!!
  Nice work!
I'd go ahead and get all the wood parts out of the extractor.
Make your own reel, much less mess and quicker extracting.


WOW!

Thanks for the complement.  I think, now that I have the time anyway, I will replace the top wooden donut that contains the top bar or metal brackets.  I was using a rubber band to temporarily hold the frames while loading each one until I could get the donut in place.  If I make a metal bracket and a clip I won't have to struggle to get all the frames lined up to get that donut in place.
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« Reply #51 on: December 03, 2010, 01:57:40 PM »

Yes, I like it much better now.  The brackets act like a guide so all I have to do is drop the frames in.  I think I will leave the PVC tube in the extractor and just load it that way instead of preloading it and then trying to drop the whole assembly into the barrel.





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Bee-Bop
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« Reply #52 on: December 03, 2010, 02:47:19 PM »

That sounds like a better idea.

Now my silly question, have you spun the empty frames yet, how is the balance at all speeds ?

Balancing was my biggest problem.

Looking better than you had when you started out with, I think.

Good luck keep us informed.

Bee-Bop
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« Reply #53 on: December 03, 2010, 03:07:44 PM »

That sounds like a better idea.

Now my silly question, have you spun the empty frames yet, how is the balance at all speeds ?

Balancing was my biggest problem.

Looking better than you had when you started out with, I think.

Good luck keep us informed.

Bee-Bop

Balance has gotten a lot better since I made the brackets have a loose fit.  When they were tight one or two were not exactly symmetrical and it would throw off the balance.  When they are loose they kinda find their own center.  I woud like to have some full frames to try it out.  Anybody down south want to send me some full frames so I could test it?
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rdy-b
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« Reply #54 on: January 02, 2011, 03:10:20 AM »

Quote
I have seen several extractors where they used old ceiling fan motors and you would control the speed with a rotary fan speed control switch from Home Depot.  


I just made one using a ceiling fan but I am going to use the three stepped switch that came with the fan for the three speeds.  I won't get to use it until next season but I am confident it will work fine.  The fan is mounted inside a plastic 55 gal drum.  I don't think I can post a picture yet so you will have to wait to see it.



wont it short out with the motor in the honey-? how you gona wash it out with the motor in the drum ?
  Smiley RDY-B
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Tommyt
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« Reply #55 on: January 02, 2011, 10:37:51 AM »

From the looks of this Project If it works
I would think the owner will have to leave the
Barrel and motor to the bees to clean out
I like others think its going to short out
or at the very least, the motor magnets will get
overcome with honey and fail
I do hope it works, I think a tin-pan shield
is the answer ,If there is an answer


Tommyt
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Acebird
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« Reply #56 on: January 02, 2011, 11:21:19 AM »

Quote
I would think the owner will have to leave the
Barrel and motor to the bees to clean out


That was my plan.  Do you see any reason why I shouldn’t let the bees do my dirty work?

http://www.electrical-forensics.com/CeilingFans/CeilingFans.html

Take a look at a typical ceiling fan.  There are no magnets.  Better than that, there is no commutator.  You can darn near hose this thing down and it won’t short.  Anyhow, I will mount a tin pie spinner plate on the motor to make you all happy.  The only detriment to the motor is it would rust if I hosed it down.  But my bees can get anywhere the honey can get so I will give them the job of clean up.
« Last Edit: January 02, 2011, 02:45:03 PM by Acebird » Logged

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rdy-b
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« Reply #57 on: January 02, 2011, 02:37:02 PM »

  your bees will like that- Smiley RDY-B
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Tommyt
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« Reply #58 on: January 02, 2011, 11:31:32 PM »



Little squares above # 6 thru 9
those be magnets grin


I do hope it works it will cause a lot of
new designs for folks
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rdy-b
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« Reply #59 on: January 03, 2011, 12:07:05 AM »

 its electricity- cheesy motor needs to be isolated for safety- Smiley RDY-B
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