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Author Topic: My Home Built Radial Honey Extractor  (Read 30954 times)
The Bix
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« Reply #20 on: September 13, 2010, 09:53:10 AM »

Let me Be the first to ask for a price for the pattern for these 2 ? 3 Pieces

Thanks
Tommyt




I'll contact you offline, not sure what the forum permits and what it doesn't.
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shaux
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« Reply #21 on: September 13, 2010, 08:00:06 PM »

Bix,

I am impressed.  Concerning the drill, what type of load does it put on it when first starting?  How many supers have you extracted with it?
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tecumseh
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« Reply #22 on: September 13, 2010, 09:36:04 PM »

I enjoyed the video also...

snip..
I got used to the sound at a certain slower rpm level and held it there for the first two minutes, then I would speed it up quite a bit for another 30 seconds (about 3/4 on the drill).

tecumseh:
I have powered up my old tangential converted to a radial extractor for several seasons with an old and heavy flea market purchased 1/2" variable speed drill motor.  I obtained from a friend an old physic lab voltage regulator which does quite a nice job of regulating the speed.  I have no idea of the exact rpm of the various setting on the dial of the voltage regulator.  At the end of the day I pretty much go by the sound and how much stuff is running out the outlet. 
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I am 'the panther that passes in the night'... tecumseh.
The Bix
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« Reply #23 on: September 13, 2010, 10:38:39 PM »

Concerning the drill, what type of load does it put on it when first starting?  How many supers have you extracted with it?
I found that you have to hold it pretty tight and gently squeeze the trigger in order to get it smoothly started.  The drill really has plenty of power to move the extractor (I was surprised).  Getting it started is manageable.  You can see it in the video of my 8 year old nephew, check it out.

We extracted 15 supers in all, plus another 5 for a friend....and thanks for the compliment shaux!
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Tommyt
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« Reply #24 on: September 14, 2010, 01:54:35 PM »

I tried to reply to the email and it didn't work so I sent a PM


Tom
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shaux
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« Reply #25 on: September 20, 2010, 02:20:28 PM »

How easy would this design be to upgrade to a bigger extractor?  Could it work in say an industrial restaurant pot?
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The Bix
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« Reply #26 on: September 20, 2010, 09:42:16 PM »

How easy would this design be to upgrade to a bigger extractor?  Could it work in say an industrial restaurant pot?

Well, using existing barrel it is possible to fit 10 medium or shallow frames, but if I were to do that I would have to sacrifice the ability to set it up to handle deep frames.  I may just do that for myself anyway, I didn't have the need to extract any deep frames this year, don't envision the need to next year.

Regarding the use of an industrial restaurant pot, the answer is YES, as long as the pot's diameter is greater than 22 inches.  The diameter of the pot will determine how many frames you can get in.  The greater the diameter obviously the greater number of frames.  At some point though, the drill powered version probably has some limits.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2010, 10:04:04 AM by The Bix » Logged
slacker361
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« Reply #27 on: May 11, 2011, 04:20:55 PM »

so I didnt see the parts list anywhere do you have one? I am not that mechanically inclined
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The Bix
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« Reply #28 on: May 11, 2011, 04:53:11 PM »

I do, but the key parts (bearing assembly and mounting plates) are fabricated, not off the shelf stuff.
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slacker361
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« Reply #29 on: May 11, 2011, 05:12:12 PM »

oh crap that is where I fail.....
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The Bix
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« Reply #30 on: July 12, 2011, 10:29:45 PM »

See Stephen's comments on this extractor:

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,33916.0.html
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alexlloyd
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« Reply #31 on: September 25, 2011, 09:29:30 PM »

Bix;

Where did you get the plate machined, and what did it cost.... at $5 per pound, how many pounds of honey am I looking at.

Alex

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Acebird
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« Reply #32 on: October 27, 2011, 08:40:14 AM »

 So everything in this assembly is food safe HDPE or UHMW plastic and won't warp.

Except for all the frames you spin. Wink

If you do throw a frame and it gets caught it will more than likely brake that 8 year olds arm or wrist.  The torque you feel at the start is nothing you would feel with a rotor lock up.

Nice machining by the way.
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VolunteerK9
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« Reply #33 on: October 27, 2011, 06:15:24 PM »


Except for all the frames you spin. Wink


Seriously? Geez
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slacker361
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« Reply #34 on: October 27, 2011, 06:24:24 PM »

before I got my motor I used a drill, and it dam near broke my wrist...... of course the drill was a direct drive geared drill so when the drill stopped it stopped, there was no doubt about it. so then the handle of the drill would start to move and very rapidly by the way..... so I got the motor, figured it was cheeper than the broken wrist.....
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Sundog
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« Reply #35 on: October 27, 2011, 08:41:26 PM »

I built a small extractor also, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet.  It too is limited by the barrel size (it is based on a tub 18 inches in diameter), so it will only spin four frames.  Mediums radially, and deeps tangentially. 

I found that 1-1/8 inch holes fit "standard" (although I shy away from that term) Dadant frame tabs nicely, eliminating the need for machining.  It has a rotating shaft design that turns in sealed bearings top and bottom with triangular flats ground onto the end to (loosely) fit a 3/8 in drill and rather than slowing or stopping, just lift the drill to disengage it and let it spin down.  Works good with empty frames.

About $70 in parts and I had a great fun making it.
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Acebird
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« Reply #36 on: October 28, 2011, 08:38:38 AM »

Quote
It has a rotating shaft design that turns in sealed bearings top and bottom with triangular flats ground onto the end to (loosely) fit a 3/8 in drill and rather than slowing or stopping, just lift the drill to disengage it and let it spin down.

You can disengage as long as there is not a jam up.  I would suggest that anyone using a drill that is held by hand make a sheer pin connection and a yoke so you can disengage like the gentleman above does.  You could play with a saw tooth shape on the yoke so only a certain amount of torque could be transmitted before it automatically disengages by itself.  Then the pin could be solid.
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Sundog
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« Reply #37 on: October 28, 2011, 12:40:35 PM »

You can disengage as long as there is not a jam up.  I would suggest that anyone using a drill that is held by hand make a sheer pin connection and a yoke so you can disengage like the gentleman above does.  You could play with a saw tooth shape on the yoke so only a certain amount of torque could be transmitted before it automatically disengages by itself.  Then the pin could be solid.


All very good points, all of which drive up the cost.  While a "jam up" is unlikely (given the design), unless a frame breaks, the flats on the shaft are ground so that the drill fits loosely when wide open and it pops off pretty easily.

I'm not trying to sell anybody on anything.  I mostly only wanted to share the point that a 1-1/8 hole will work in place of very costly machining.  The most costly pieces were the tub $30, and the two bearings $10 each.

I had fun!

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Acebird
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« Reply #38 on: October 28, 2011, 02:04:09 PM »

Quote
the flats on the shaft are ground so that the drill fits loosely when wide open and it pops off pretty easily.

I like your simple design but I also know that IF a jam up occurs the shaft will not uncouple so easily plus it happens to fast so be prepared for the worst.  The uncoupling happens easily under normal situations because once the load is up to speed the torque goes to near zero.
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litlehoop
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« Reply #39 on: February 20, 2012, 04:35:01 PM »

This look like an awesome extractor for a backyard beekeeper like myself, Easy to make? How much for the parts? How much for the plans? I have some time to get one together, but would like to get one together soon.
Thanks for being a beekeeper.... the planet loves you for it.
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