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Author Topic: Lock Miter bit Are any of you using it I have a few ??  (Read 1965 times)
Tommyt
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« on: September 09, 2010, 08:57:51 AM »

Me again New to Bees and Building so I'll be asking for a while

 I saw in the sticky the last post is with a "Lock Miter bit " used for the corners
Was all set to get into that way then I looked at the video
The ones I did so far are on a Table saw. I just take a 1/4 inch off each end and get a "L" knocked out
I then Glue and shoot a few brads
Is it Better to go with the Miter ?
Is it really necessary If your Box's are going o be put on a Truck and moved a few times a year
I don't think mine will ever be moved Yes they will be lifted on and off but not much more than that
I also have Bad shoulders so If I ever get going and have Full Supers I plan on Removing Frames to lighten
the Load Before lifting the entire box
SO to Miter or L cut the corners
One more for you guys using the Router Bit can it be done in one Pass or all those moves
The table saw is one each way  But I hate to build them and then they Fail

Thanks
Tommyt
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AllenF
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« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2010, 10:15:36 AM »

You are going to get different answers here showing what everyone is using for their boxes.   Are you good with your table saw?   Then I would stick with it.   I believe that the glue makes up a lot of the strength.   
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Vibe
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« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2010, 10:46:09 AM »

A Lock Miter is for furniture grade carpentry in my opinion. I have one I'm learning to use for that purpose. Hive box parts around here generally come with pin/groove (or straight "dovetails"). I have one hive that way and several others that are "just" boards screwed together into a box (With the frame hanger rabbits cut in the top). I don't really see the advantage in using a Lock Miter cut for a hive, But it's sure LOOK good for a while.
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Tommyt
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« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2010, 08:17:41 AM »

I guess I'll keep doing the table saw Notch/Glue and I think on the Main Hive box I'll scew and gule
the rest will get Glue and Brad Nailed
Now got to get the bee's

Thanks
Tommyt
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danno
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« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2010, 09:55:30 AM »

I like box joints that i cut with a dado on the table saw.   They are super strong  but have friends that just cut the l shaped edges either with a dado or 2 cuts with the table saw.   If your not moveing these much they will be strong enough but I would try to get box nails from both angles and good glue
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Tommyt
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« Reply #5 on: September 10, 2010, 10:38:57 AM »

Danno
 Thanks
 What I do when I nail I'm using a air gun and I X shoot Brads like this one
@45 north and the next 20% north east
The brad wires are thin enough they don't split the wood and I do similar with Frames

Tommyt
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« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2010, 11:46:49 PM »

I used a loc miter last winter building boxes.. them sure were pretty, square, solid and best part.. no open grain exposed... will I use it again this winter when building supers??  No .. too time consuming and  precision tolerances are critical or it will not go together correctly. I will be going back to box joints.
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Tommyt
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« Reply #7 on: September 11, 2010, 09:48:35 AM »

I used a loc miter last winter building boxes.. them sure were pretty, square, solid and best part.. no open grain exposed... will I use it again this winter when building supers??  No .. too time consuming and  precision tolerances are critical or it will not go together correctly. I will be going back to box joints.

 So box cut you mean dado? correct ,or your going with router full time?
Also did you make the loc miter in one pass or multiple
Thanks
Tommyt

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« Reply #8 on: September 11, 2010, 10:27:13 PM »

I have a full woodworking shop for my other business and use  locking a miter joint quite a bit for long columns and stair parts to ease assembly in the field. The tolerances for the lumber thickness are so tight that we plane our stock within an hour or so of actually running them through the shaper. If you let them sit for a day or two (especially in FL humidity) it throws off your entire set up.

Box joints are a strong joint but need to have the end grain protected with a good paint and rabbeted joints are ok for nucs or brood boxes (that you don't move often and don't have 90lbs of honey in them) and are quicker to produce, but still have end grain that needs protection.

Scott
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« Reply #9 on: September 11, 2010, 10:43:55 PM »

Hello all!
   I built deeps this year using just but joints.  I used tightbond III glue and drywall screws.  I then used clear polyuretheyne on the outside.  So far they have held up very well and look pretty fancy for bee hives!  High class bees!   I think I figured it out that it was about ten dollars a box that way.  I also bought un assembled frames from Dadent.  They sent nails but I didn't use them.  I just used tightbond III wood glue.  So far they have held up fine.  No nails or brads.  Give them a few years and I will tell ya again.  I found a long time ago that some of the glue that you use is actually stronger than the wood you put it on and it allows for some flexing without cracking. 
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beee farmer
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« Reply #10 on: September 11, 2010, 11:01:17 PM »

I used a loc miter last winter building boxes.. them sure were pretty, square, solid and best part.. no open grain exposed... will I use it again this winter when building supers??  No .. too time consuming and  precision tolerances are critical or it will not go together correctly. I will be going back to box joints.

 So box cut you mean dado? correct ,or your going with router full time?
Also did you make the loc miter in one pass or multiple
Thanks
Tommyt

Yep, box joint using a dado blade.  Won't be usisng the router full time, bits are expensive, darn things are noisy, even with a shop vac attached they make a huge mess.  And yes the Loc Joint bit is a single pass set up on a router table.


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« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2010, 08:43:44 AM »

I have been using the lock miter. Once set up the cuts move right along. Very fussy (as mentioned ) as to board thickness. Also if using a router (I don't have a shaper) the router needs to be beefy.

Assembly is nice as the joints are self squaring.
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Tommyt
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« Reply #12 on: September 13, 2010, 01:02:10 AM »

Quote
Very fussy
Seems Like it Should be great for the Glue
I think for the few I'll make I'm going to get the Bit
I have a pretty stout Router

 Tommyt
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« Reply #13 on: September 18, 2010, 02:39:07 PM »

I had this bit lying around from a previous project and used it this year.


http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/vp16-4022/pc_-_glue_joints

I have a router table built into my tablesaw extension wing so it uses my tablesaw fence as well. As has been said, takes a bit of fiddling but for me it's about the same trouble as setting up to cut box joints. Combined with titebond III, the joints are nearly indestructible, LOTS of surface area for glue along with the mechanical strength of the joint.

As with any project, it comes down to what you're comfortable with. History shows that box joints are effective for woodenware, but with modern glues and fasteners, you can probably go with a joint with less mechanical advantage and still hold them together.

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Tommyt
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« Reply #14 on: September 19, 2010, 11:57:55 PM »

 I am Changing Directions a bit
I got a deal on Craig's list
I bought a Craftsman Table saw With Router Table attachment
BUT The Kicker was it came with a Dado Set
and the whole deal cost me 70 American
The dado the cheapest I could find was 80 American
So I think I got a deal of deals the Saw Has 3 different
Fences and a extra table With Cross Cut Fence too
I am thrilled
The Guy was Great gave me a hour demo of all the things it will do
He also had the Lock Miter bit and told me all about it
But He said as was already stated its a Bit Fussy
So I will make Box Joints

Tommyt
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AllenF
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« Reply #15 on: September 20, 2010, 09:38:01 AM »

Tools are like bee hives,   one have never have enough.   grin
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