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Author Topic: Stacked dado or wobble?  (Read 4886 times)
David LaFerney
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« Reply #20 on: October 17, 2009, 10:20:07 PM »

I would like to at least see a pic of the template. Does just a pic still cost me a buck?


Yeah, but you can just owe it to me.

The template:


The router setup:


And the result:


The template is made out of 1/4" plywood and the standard length cutter is set as deep as it will go in these pictures.  I now have an extra long cutter so I can make the cut as deep as I want.  It isn't exactly like a factory cut hive body, but it's a reasonable facsimile.  It takes about 30 seconds to clamp the template down and make the cut. 
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Robo
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« Reply #21 on: October 17, 2009, 11:02:25 PM »

I also have a router version with directions on my website courtesy of Jim Hensel

http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/hensel-handle-sloping-pocket-handle-for-hive-boxes/

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VolunteerK9
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« Reply #22 on: October 18, 2009, 08:45:29 AM »

I'm really getting into these jigs. Built 7 mediums yesterday Smiley
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hardwood
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« Reply #23 on: October 29, 2009, 02:46:20 PM »

Robo, if this works and I can share the pics here they are (fingers crossed) http://s871.photobucket.com/albums/ab277/hardwood01/Finger%20joint%20jig/
« Last Edit: October 29, 2009, 03:34:19 PM by Robo » Logged

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Lone
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« Reply #24 on: October 30, 2009, 10:13:37 AM »

Hello,

Here is a challenge.

Can anyone explain in simple basic language that girlies like me might understand, how can I put in the ledge that the frames sit on?  I'm not sure if you are talking about using the dado blades (which I don't have) for that, but I have no need for fancy joints or those inverted handles that weaklings like me can't get a grip on with full supers.

My woodwork mate has gone home so I tried to use the circular saw out of necessity(for the first time), and made a big mess.  It cut too far in when it somehow leaned over all by itself with me hanging on. (I am sure that picture will provide you with some amusement). Anyway, I can only get 19mm thick board, so the ledges really need an extension so the frames don't drop. Thus I was able to cover over the splintered gullies and rectify the mess with a strip of merbau, but I would like advice on getting it right the first time, please, preferably without a circular saw (until it and I can be proper friends).

Lone
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contactme_11
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« Reply #25 on: October 30, 2009, 11:25:03 AM »

Ok. Let's try. 19mm is about the same thickness as a 3/4" board here in the US. To do what you want without fancy tool you will need a table saw. After you cut or rip your boards to the height you want your boxes, set the fence 15.9mm from the blade and set the blade to 9.5mm high. Run the board through. Set the fence 9.5mm from the blade and raise the blade to 15.9mm high. Turn the board on edge and run it through again (be very careful). This should cut you out a frame rest 3/8"x 5/8", which is what we use here in the US.

Hello,

Here is a challenge.

Can anyone explain in simple basic language that girlies like me might understand, how can I put in the ledge that the frames sit on?  I'm not sure if you are talking about using the dado blades (which I don't have) for that, but I have no need for fancy joints or those inverted handles that weaklings like me can't get a grip on with full supers.

My woodwork mate has gone home so I tried to use the circular saw out of necessity(for the first time), and made a big mess.  It cut too far in when it somehow leaned over all by itself with me hanging on. (I am sure that picture will provide you with some amusement). Anyway, I can only get 19mm thick board, so the ledges really need an extension so the frames don't drop. Thus I was able to cover over the splintered gullies and rectify the mess with a strip of merbau, but I would like advice on getting it right the first time, please, preferably without a circular saw (until it and I can be proper friends).

Lone
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Lone
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« Reply #26 on: October 31, 2009, 09:37:25 PM »

Thanks, Contactme, that explantion was very clear.  I don't have a table saw so I think next time I will tackle it with chisels, hacksaw, or roc tool (something like a dremel).  Unless by then I am more deft with the circular saw.

The commercial supers I have are slightly thicker, so either I have to make mine a bit shorter or put that extra strip for the frames.  I don't think it matters if they are slightly shorter - they just look nicer together.  And the difference is only a small amount.

Lone
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contactme_11
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« Reply #27 on: November 01, 2009, 05:45:14 AM »

If you have a router you could do it with that too.
Thanks, Contactme, that explantion was very clear.  I don't have a table saw so I think next time I will tackle it with chisels, hacksaw, or roc tool (something like a dremel).  Unless by then I am more deft with the circular saw.

The commercial supers I have are slightly thicker, so either I have to make mine a bit shorter or put that extra strip for the frames.  I don't think it matters if they are slightly shorter - they just look nicer together.  And the difference is only a small amount.

Lone
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wetland bee
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« Reply #28 on: January 07, 2010, 07:38:46 PM »

This post was a great help. I had two weeks off over Christmas / new years and use it to make a jig to assemble 510 frames. Then built a plex glass sled for my 10 inch table saw. Made it 44"  long 9" wide it can cut the sides and ends to length with 10"inch blade. Then put on  my craftman wobble and cut Finger joint. I love it works great now I need a cheap wood source
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Russ
Greg watkevich
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« Reply #29 on: January 27, 2010, 07:03:46 PM »

If you dont have a decent table saw and an accurate fence you will always be struggling, but the stacked dado is hands down better than a wobble.  I don't use a dado, and found that a router works best for me.  I'm not into production mode but for building a minimal amount of hives, a router does a great job where a table saw and a chop saw doesnt work.
Greg Watkevich
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