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Author Topic: HIVE STANDS  (Read 5858 times)
nella
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« on: June 08, 2009, 02:20:25 PM »

  On this web site. Did I see a hive stand made out of a single piece of pipe driven into the ground with an adjustable platform for leveling the hive? Would anyone have plans for it?
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contactme_11
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« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2009, 03:55:56 PM »

I've never seen one like you're talking about but that sounds extremely unstable.
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Irwin
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« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2009, 04:26:26 PM »

That's a great idea grin You could get a 3 inch pipe set it 2 foot in the ground 1 foot above weld a plate on top before putting it in the ground of coarse set it in cement easy to weed eat around.
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jdpro5010
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« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2009, 04:33:27 PM »

Yes I am pretty sure that maybe back towards late winter or early spring someone posted a set up like you are describing on this forum I believe.  It looked like way too much work and not very flexible as far as moving hives around.
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manfre
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« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2009, 02:26:38 PM »

Cinder blocks sitting on an outdoor rug works well enough. Just don't forget a few paver stones for you to put the smoker down on.
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TwT
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« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2009, 05:32:52 PM »

there was one but it was concreted around the base so it couldn't be moved, nice strong setup but couldn't move anywhere!!
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justgojumpit
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« Reply #6 on: June 21, 2009, 05:53:34 AM »

Why do you need paver stones to put the smoker on?  That is what the lid of the next hive over is for Wink I use the cinderblocks also, but if I really had the setup I wanted, I would have benches for my hives.  I would set four posts in concrete, brace them diagonally, and then frame the top of the posts with 2x6 pressure treated wood.  Each bench would take 5 or 6 hives with 8-10 inches of space between hives.  In the winter, I could push all the hives snugly together, and then wrap the whole block.

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Ross
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« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2009, 10:37:08 AM »

Two landscape timbers laid flat on the ground work just fine for me, holds 3 hives with room to set a box in between when working the hives. 
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« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2009, 07:43:27 PM »

I use landscape timbers also, but I set mine on top of 2 cynder blocks each side, keeps ants away if you treat the blocks. SAVES A MOWING TRIP  Wink
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Ross
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« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2009, 09:03:13 AM »

What's this thing you refer to as "mowing"?  Mine all have a top entrance as well.
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dragonfly
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« Reply #10 on: June 23, 2009, 02:16:21 PM »

I built my hivestand of steel 3x3's and channel with two legs sunk in concrete to support the "stand" part of it. It will hold 4 or 5 hives and is easy to keep ants out of.
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Ross
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« Reply #11 on: June 24, 2009, 08:08:24 PM »

I hope you never need to move it  evil
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« Reply #12 on: June 25, 2009, 09:06:02 AM »

Me too! grin
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« Reply #13 on: June 25, 2009, 10:57:52 AM »

What's this thing you refer to as "mowing"?  Mine all have a top entrance as well.

cutting grass and weed-eating  Wink,  I use 2 bottoms entrances, besides part of the deal I have with land owners is that I keep it clean around the hives, having them up like that also saves on bending over (back pains)
« Last Edit: June 25, 2009, 11:22:14 AM by TwT » Logged

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David LaFerney
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« Reply #14 on: June 25, 2009, 11:48:20 AM »

I use landscape timbers also, but I set mine on top of 2 cynder blocks each side, keeps ants away if you treat the blocks. SAVES a MOWING TRIP  Wink

What do you treat the blocks with?  This is about what I'm doing except with 6x6s that I had around, and I have a minor ant issue.
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Vibe
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« Reply #15 on: June 25, 2009, 12:18:30 PM »

I have a minor ant issue.
I had some of the same. But I took a different approach. My bottom boards have "feet" (lag screws) that set in cups (I used aluminum tea candle casings, but plan to move to something a bit heavier gauge soon) the cups naturally collect water and keeps ants out by being an effective "moat" around each of the legs. Being that the "feet" are screws, leveling is fairly straight forward.
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« Reply #16 on: June 25, 2009, 04:16:52 PM »

I use landscape timbers also, but I set mine on top of 2 cynder blocks each side, keeps ants away if you treat the blocks. SAVES a MOWING TRIP  Wink


What do you treat the blocks with?  This is about what I'm doing except with 6x6s that I had around, and I have a minor ant issue.


I dont treat the timbers because my timbers sit on blocks, I do spray the blocks with Triazicide , been using it for years and never had a problem.  it does keep away and kill ant's very good though. 
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THAT's ME TO THE LEFT JUST 5 YEARS FROM NOW!!!!!!!!

Never be afraid to try something new.
Amateurs built the ark,
Professionals built the Titanic
qa33010
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« Reply #17 on: June 28, 2009, 01:02:45 AM »

    Here's a link I found on another site.  Is this sort of what you're looking for?  I hope they don't mind my copying it here.


http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm46/txgunnut/IMG_1153.jpg
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handymandave
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« Reply #18 on: July 11, 2009, 04:23:16 PM »

A shovel to level the ground and cinder blocks set on scraps of rubber roofing seems to work OK for me. No mowing and cheap!
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Billybee
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« Reply #19 on: August 16, 2009, 03:37:32 PM »

I built a stand from cement blocks to keep ants out. It turned out to be really sturdy and its still movable. Pics on myspace page at signature . I still cant figure out how to add a picture to these posts but, I think some folks may like my design.



« Last Edit: August 16, 2009, 06:23:51 PM by Billybee » Logged

Can somebody tell me where I can find a foundation tree?
Billybee
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« Reply #20 on: August 16, 2009, 07:12:23 PM »

Ok

I will try this again. Here is the pic of the stand I made for ant moat.


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Can somebody tell me where I can find a foundation tree?
Bee-Bop
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« Reply #21 on: August 16, 2009, 09:43:30 PM »

Billybee;

Don't think you have enough time/posts to post pictures yet, it's kind of a trial period to be sure there is no bad stuff posted.

Ask one of the moderaters to post your pictures, one of them should ok you.

Bee-Bop
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Sparky
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« Reply #22 on: August 30, 2009, 10:19:47 PM »

I have to say BillyBee that is pretty slick and a bunch cheaper than the one I built. My concern would be if it gets a few boxes on top and heavy will it be stable? I tried to post a pic some time back but had the same problem you did. Not enough post yet.
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HAB
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« Reply #23 on: August 31, 2009, 06:09:55 PM »

Picked up a couple of rolls of outdoor furniture fabric at a yard sale that is 6ft wide, rot proof, and UV resistant.  Its tougher than the rolls of weed block sold in lawn care stores.  Roll it out, lay down two PT 4x4's, and your done.  Been using it for ten years around the farm here and the first I put down still looks great.  Smiley  bee
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Sparky
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« Reply #24 on: September 04, 2009, 06:44:39 PM »

Hive Stand with pest moat. I am very happy that I built these as I got started. The cost is more to start a hive but nothing but bees in the boxes. I guess it would be impractical to do this at a large scale like someone adding many at one time, but for the person that is slowly adding to the apiary like me, it is great. I though about leaving the mouse guards off this winter because I do not think they are needed. I do not plan to move them of coarse like some do. The boxes can be secured with a strap to the stand.
.img529.imageshack.us/i/hivestand005.jpg/][/URL]
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Irwin
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« Reply #25 on: September 05, 2009, 08:32:32 AM »

Very nice I like it Smiley
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