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asprince
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« Reply #20 on: May 07, 2009, 08:09:45 PM » |
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Rob's bee vac design is second to none! I have built two and it is the best for hiving swarms. Rarely do I not get the queen when I vacuum the swarm into a hive body.
Steve
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Politics is supposed to be the second oldest profession. I have come to realize that it bears a very close resembalance to the first. - Ronald Reagan
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G3farms
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« Reply #21 on: May 07, 2009, 10:05:28 PM » |
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I started building one of robo's bee vacs today, pretty good design if I do say so myself. Will finish it tomorrow, need to get some screen wire, would rather have hardware cloth if I can find it. Built he whole thing out of scrap wood that I had on hand. The only thing I will need to buy is the hardware cloth and some 2" vac hose. I have a large cut out coming soon, real soon.
G3
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Robo
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Beekeep On!
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« Reply #22 on: May 07, 2009, 10:17:24 PM » |
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Thanks for the kind words guys. I have just updated my site with the latest modification for the bee vac. The cut-out shim allows for adding brood, that has been mounted into frames, to be added to the hive on-site when finished removing the colony. http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/bee-vac/ |
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asprince
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« Reply #23 on: May 07, 2009, 10:18:46 PM » |
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I saw some pretty good deals for hose on Ebay. I use swimming pool vac hose on one of mine. It is 1.25 and smooth on the inside. Works great. A shop vac hose will allow you to put on a crevice tool for vacuuming in tight spits like between rows of comb or in bushes for swarm capture.
Steve
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Politics is supposed to be the second oldest profession. I have come to realize that it bears a very close resembalance to the first. - Ronald Reagan
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G3farms
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« Reply #24 on: May 07, 2009, 10:39:50 PM » |
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where would be a good place to find the 2" vac hose??
I am a tight wad, and would like to find someone that is throwing out and old sho vac and get their hose, but that will never happen.
Thats a good idea for the cut out shim, I don't think I would run the vac while brood was in there, might chill it.
Dang it, now I have to make something else.
G3
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asprince
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« Reply #25 on: May 07, 2009, 10:45:19 PM » |
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where would be a good place to find the 2" vac hose??
Try Ebay or maybe some yard sales. Steve |
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Politics is supposed to be the second oldest profession. I have come to realize that it bears a very close resembalance to the first. - Ronald Reagan
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1reb
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« Reply #26 on: May 08, 2009, 12:24:59 AM » |
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do anyone know where I can get a jig to build the frames?
Johnny
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« Last Edit: May 08, 2009, 12:53:18 AM by 1reb »
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G3farms
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« Reply #27 on: May 08, 2009, 12:29:36 AM » |
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found some on home depot web site 2" diameter x 25' long for $54.99.
Think I will call tomorrow to see if they stock it.
G3
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G3farms
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« Reply #28 on: May 08, 2009, 12:30:17 AM » |
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what frames are you talking about??
G3
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1reb
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« Reply #29 on: May 08, 2009, 12:49:21 AM » |
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beehive frames and side bars
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Robo
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« Reply #30 on: May 08, 2009, 06:57:49 AM » |
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do anyone know where I can get a jig to build the frames?
Johnny
I have plans to build Ross's here -> http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/downloads/ |
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« Last Edit: May 08, 2009, 09:12:35 PM by Robo »
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Tucker1
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"The Morning Breaks, The Shadows Flee.....
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« Reply #31 on: May 08, 2009, 02:21:48 PM » |
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WOW. Thanks for the outstanding replies. Looking at some of the hives and equipment that has been built, ....... in addition to honey the bees provide they should also be paying you rent. My first bachelor apartment didn't look this good. The ideas provided are very interesting. Some of the craftsmanship was superb. Thanks again for all of the information.
Regards,
Tucker
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He who would gather honey must bear the sting of the bees.
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nella
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Location: Allentown, Pa.
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« Reply #32 on: May 08, 2009, 02:57:38 PM » |
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Building your own hives is not hard and don't take a lot of expensive equipment, a table saw is nice to have . When I build mine I half lap the corners and glue and screw. I cut the rabbit joint in the end pieces and fit the sides in them and it coveres the end grain in the side pieces that absorbs water.
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1reb
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« Reply #33 on: May 08, 2009, 08:08:13 PM » |
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Thank you Robo
Johnny
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Ross
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« Reply #34 on: May 08, 2009, 09:03:40 PM » |
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I can't buy raw wood as cheap as I can buy commercial mediums from Dadant (no shipping, no tax). I do make tops, bottoms, and nucs, all of which I feel are over priced. I assemble all of my own gear. Bottom Board construction http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/bottomboard/bottomboard.htmFrame construction jig (yes, that one) http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/framejig/framejig.htmFoundationless frames -- cutting the top bars http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/frames/a couple of nucs http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/nuc/a sled for cutting box joints (there are tons out there on the web) http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/sled/Open feeder (hint, place gravel, sawdust, sponge, etc in the bowl to prevent drowning. http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/beefeeder.jpgQueen cell incubator http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/incubator/ |
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www.myoldtools.comThose who don't read good books have no advantage over those who can't---Mark Twain
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1reb
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« Reply #35 on: May 08, 2009, 09:06:52 PM » |
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Do you have a jig to make the top board on the frame?
Johnny
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Ross
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« Reply #36 on: May 08, 2009, 09:14:45 PM » |
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I just buy standard wedge top bars and rip them at 45 degrees. Frame parts aren't worth my time to make.
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www.myoldtools.comThose who don't read good books have no advantage over those who can't---Mark Twain
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1reb
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« Reply #37 on: May 08, 2009, 09:22:05 PM » |
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I work at a Sawmill / planner mill and I can get broken stacking stick they are 3/4 by 1 1/2 inch thick
Johnny
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Ross
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« Reply #38 on: May 08, 2009, 09:30:32 PM » |
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It would be simpler to start with wide plank the thickness you want the bars I think. Cut the grooves for the ears of the end bars all the way across and then rip them to height.
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www.myoldtools.comThose who don't read good books have no advantage over those who can't---Mark Twain
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1reb
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« Reply #39 on: May 08, 2009, 09:33:07 PM » |
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the main reason i wanted to make my own so I can talk my wife into buying me some more woodworking equipment
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