Need Bees Removed?
International
Beekeeping Forums
October 02, 2014, 01:55:13 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News: 24/7 Ventrilo Voice chat -click for instructions and free software here
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar bee removal Login Register Chat  

Pages: 1 2 [3]  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Building your own "stuff"  (Read 10143 times)
Ross
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 512

Location: Greenville, TX


WWW
« Reply #40 on: May 08, 2009, 09:54:23 PM »

There is a reason my website is www.myoldtools.com  evil
Logged

www.myoldtools.com
Those who don't read good books have no advantage over those who can't---Mark Twain
1reb
Super Bee
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1698

Location: Warren,Arkansas


« Reply #41 on: May 08, 2009, 10:26:42 PM »

cool website

Johnny
Logged
rast
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 553

Location: Mascotte, Fl.


« Reply #42 on: May 09, 2009, 08:00:37 AM »

 To justify having a complete wood shop and the fact that I enjoy woodworking, I make all mine including frames. I built jigs for all processes. For instance on box assy. I used the portion I cut off of a deep (making a med out of it) and added some uprights to it for a box jig. No more fussing with square and flat. Cutting the frame side bars down on a router table is the most monotonous part due to the repetition. Don't save a dime on making frames, cheaper to buy. But see first sentence.
Logged

Fools argue; wise men discuss.
    --Paramahansa Yogananda
woodchopper
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 347


Location: So. Maine and SE MA.


« Reply #43 on: May 21, 2009, 02:57:55 PM »

I love woodworking but I'm nowhere as good as most of you. I only make two different size shims, entrance reducers, and a couple bottom boards for some used 8 frame equipment we just bought. I figure if I buy my equipment during the free shipping special that Brushy Mt. has every year I don't mind spending a few extra bucks per piece to have someone else build it. I really like the looks of those slatted racks that Robo made though. I might just have to make a few.
Logged

Every man looks at his wood pile with a kind of affection- Thoreau
NasalSponge
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 271


Location: OKC


WWW
« Reply #44 on: May 21, 2009, 04:37:23 PM »

I am very impressed with much on this thread!! I have greatly enjoyed your frame vids robo!! Nicely done!!
Logged

Robo
Technical
Administrator
Galactic Bee
*******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6405


Location: Scenic Catskill Mountains - NY

Beekeep On!


WWW
« Reply #45 on: May 21, 2009, 05:20:27 PM »

I really like the looks of those slatted racks that Robo made though. I might just have to make a few.

As I've stated in other posts, they are not my design.  They are copies of the C.C. Miller design that I upsized for polystyrene hives.   Eugene Killion swore by them and there are good plans in "Honey in the Comb".   They are are simple to build, easy to pull out to clean,  provide plenty of space for the bees to control the ventilation to their needs, and also are great mouse guards.

rob...
Logged

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison


Jim 134
Super Bee
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2271


Location: Hinsdale, New Hampshire 03451 USA


WWW
« Reply #46 on: July 20, 2009, 07:54:53 PM »

I got 6 5/8 box and frames S/H all included @ $16.25 per box at Humble Abodes


         http://www.humbleabodesinc.com/home.htm  


             BEE HAPPY Jim 134  Smiley
« Last Edit: July 20, 2009, 09:56:59 PM by Jim 134 » Logged

"Tell me and I'll forget,show me and I may  remember,involve me and I'll understand"
        Chinese Proverb

"The farmer is the only man in our economy who buys everything at retail, sells everything at wholesale, and pays the freight both ways."
 John F. Kennedy
Franklin County Beekeepers Association MA. http://www.franklinmabeekeepers.org/
Paraplegic Racehorse
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 146

Location: Richland, Benton County, Washington State

Kilted beekeepers unite!


WWW
« Reply #47 on: July 22, 2009, 12:35:11 AM »

Hmm. Wow. Nobody wants to build their own frames. Can't blame any of you when you consider the price of new wooden pre-manufactured frames and the skill levels needed to re-create those specific designs.

I've been hemming and hawing over making frames with dowels, though. Be warned, I haven't tried this out but it passes my "absolutely useless idea" test. Okay, here's the idea:

Finished 2x material is 1 1/2" inches (38mm) thick, which is pretty wide for the brood nest but almost perfect for the honey storage area (I'll get back to this). So, we plane our 2x stock down to 1 5/16" (about 33mm) thick. Now, we're spot-on for brood combs. Cut to the length of your side bars. Use a belt sander, planer, router or whatever to reduce 2/3 of that length by about 3/16" on either side. Through the width of your stock, drill a 3/8" (about 9.5mm) hole centered very near the "bottom" of your new side bar stock. Again through the width, drill two more holes, centered but separated by 1/8" (about 3mm) and parallel to the "top" of your new side bar stock, also of 3/8". Drill a series of holes in various places for your foundation wire, of slight less than the OD of your eyelets, if you bother to wire your frames (I don't). Slice your side bar stock into 3/8" thick pieces by ripping lengthwise through the thickness. These are your side bars. You should be able to get close to 90 of them (medium) from an eight foot 2x4.

Get some 3/8" dowel. Each frame needs two pieces 19" (about 483mm) long and one piece 17 3/4" (about 450mm) long. These will become your top and bottom bars. Fit the two long dowel pieces through each hole in the top of your side bars such that 1" (about 25mm) sticks out at either end. Glue and nail in place. Fit the third piece through the holes in the bottom of your side bars, flush on the outside. Glue and nail.

Wha-la! You now have a frame. It even has a slot between the top rods to slide a bit of foundation into.

Now, these are not going to be the strongest of frames, mostly due to the length of the dowels, but the rectangular shape of the Langstroth box is an irritation of mine from long ago. Moving along... They should work just fine for your medium or shallow height boxes, even for honey. I don't think I'd trust them for deep honey supers. Those of you who run mediums for honey and deeps for brood, these should be plenty strong for deep brood frames. Since that starting 1/2" thickness of the 2x material is perfect for the width of honey frames, why bother planing them thinner?

You should be able to make these for close to half the cost of pre-manufactured frames.

Comments? Suggestions on improvements?
Logged

I'm Paraplegic Racehorse.
Member in good standing: International Discordance of Kilted Apiarists, Local #994

The World Beehive Project - I endeavor to build at least one of every beehive in common use today and document the entire process.
Pages: 1 2 [3]  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Beemaster's Beekeeping Ring
Previous | Home | Join | Random | Next
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.19 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines | Sitemap Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.247 seconds with 21 queries.

Google visited last this page September 14, 2014, 03:57:51 AM