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Author Topic: Wiring Frames for Foundationless Frames  (Read 1171 times)
Pond Creek Farm
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« on: March 29, 2009, 08:59:36 PM »

I am wiring deep frames into which I plan to place a starter strip of wax.  I have two inbound nucs of small cell bees and plan to allow the bees to draw the remaining five in the lower box and the entire upper deep in natural comb.  I have read that wiring is a good idea when using deeps (and some recommend it for medium as well), but I have never wired a frame.  I drilled the holes and pulled two horizontal strings of wire.  They are not especially tight, however, and I started to wonder how tight is tight enough.  If I need these things guitar sting tight, how is this done?  I simply ran the wire in a continuous loop and then twisted it together as tightly as I could.  Before I put this stuff into a hive, I want to make sure I have done it correctly. I appreciate any input.
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Brian
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« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2009, 09:11:44 PM »

Did You use the metal eyelets ?
If not the wire will cut into the wood & never pull tight.

Just wondering.
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JD
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« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2009, 10:56:26 PM »

I use a foundation form board. I put a small nail by top hole on frame. Wrap the wire around it. Then I thread the wire through the holes. Everywhere the wire turns and goes to the next hole I put a staple to keep it from cutting into the wood. Pull the wire tight. Each time you make a turn, the bend in the wire should help keep it tight. When you get to the end wrap it around another small nail. Leave the nails up if you're going to electric embed the foundation. Either way bend the nails over when you get done. Using the foundation form board allows me to pull the wires tight and not distort the frames. You could use eyelets instead of staples. Its easier for me to get staples and faster I think.  JD
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Robo
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« Reply #3 on: March 30, 2009, 11:18:49 AM »

If you use a foundation form board,  you can also spread the bottom bar away from the top bar with a spacer.  This pulls the side bars in a bit.  When your done wiring, remove the block and the frame will go back to it's normal shape and tightens the wires.

Unfortunately I haven't gotten that far with my frame assembly videos, but it will be coming grin

The tighter the wires the better, but even loose wires are much better than no wires.

Where did you buy your frames?   I've never seen frames that weren't already pre-drilled for wires.
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Pond Creek Farm
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« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2009, 12:00:56 PM »

These came from Mann-Lake.  I am unfamiliar with a frame board, so this will give me an excuse to go hunting around. Thanks for the advice.
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Brian
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« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2009, 12:20:16 PM »

Here is a picture of my wiring/foundation jig.  You can see the little block I use to spring the bottom bar down (which pulls the side bars in).  I believe Walter Kelley sells jigs and I believe there are plans in Jaycox's Beekeeping in the MidWest


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Brian D. Bray
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« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2009, 08:18:40 PM »

I have one very similar I built myself.  Over the years I've built several.  The latest locks the top bar and a cam that bows the bottom bar because that is easier than trying bow the end bars to get proper tension upon release of the cam.  I have a spool holder for the wire and built my at an angle so that it was easier to use sitting down.  When I built it I was still pretty much confined to a wheelchair and being able to work seated was muy importante.
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2009, 08:25:33 PM »

I wouldn't bother, but if you insist, nylon fishing line works well.  Crimping the wire also works well as it distributes the stress better.  Since you probably don't have a crimper, I'd try to get it reasonably tight.  Not banjo tight, but not sagging.
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Michael Bush
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