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Author Topic: Set up the trap out  (Read 12156 times)
Meadlover
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Location: Gold Coast Hinterland, QLD, Australia


« Reply #40 on: October 09, 2010, 09:14:32 AM »


If you can keep them from finding another entrance for 48 hours, they doubtfully ever will. If they do find one, you will find it is nearly impossible to keep them from finding them from then on. The trapout will either be  greatly prolonged, or totally unfeasible to do. It is extremely important to close all entrances the first time.


One detail I have been curious about, is how far from the current entrance do you seal off all visible gaps/potential alternative entrances? Is 1 metre/yard in all directions sufficient?
I understand that it will depend on the actual hive location compared to the entrance as well, but what is your rule of thumb?

Thanks

ML
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iddee
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« Reply #41 on: October 09, 2010, 03:31:37 PM »

My rule of thumb is about 10 feet, but it has failed. maybe you better use your thumb.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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Meadlover
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« Reply #42 on: October 09, 2010, 07:26:22 PM »

Thanks iddee, gives me a starting point to work from.
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jaseemtp
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« Reply #43 on: April 10, 2011, 06:55:44 PM »

very nice, I will be doing a trap out next week.  The pictures helped alot
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Meadlover
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« Reply #44 on: April 10, 2011, 09:57:25 PM »

I had 1 problem with my last trapout where the bees worked out how the cone worked!
They would land on the end of the cone and walk straight in the cone back into the house.

     

My solution to this was to place a second smaller cone over the end of the already installed cone, so that the bees would still land on the end of the cone, but it would direct them straight back out again. I have drawn some simple diagrams to show what I mean, and I think I might even make myself a modified 'double cone' to keep in my kit for future testing and use.

     

Worked a treat!
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G3farms
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« Reply #45 on: April 10, 2011, 10:57:38 PM »

What was your first cone made out of?

How long was it?

How big was the hole in the end of the cone?

My answers would be.....#8 hardware cloth, about 12 inches long and just big enough for two drones to get out at the same time.

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see my swarms and cut outs at https://www.youtube.com/user/soapy22bullet?feature=mhee

those hot bees will have you steppin and a fetchin like your heads on fire and your @ss is a catchin!!!

Bees will be bees and do as they please!
ArmucheeBee
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« Reply #46 on: April 11, 2011, 06:54:17 PM »

Make sure there are wires sticking out from the end of the cone.  The wire irritates the bees and they tire of it quickly.  They do not like being poked!
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preston39
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« Reply #47 on: May 03, 2011, 12:41:09 AM »

Yes,  I too will be interested in seeing how this goes.  The only trap-outs that I have had difficulty with where when I couldn't get the entrance of the trap hive close to the base of the cone as Iddee's method recommends.  I'm not sure I understand how you will prevent the bees from returning to the tree.


=
Just a thought...He must have a cone in the end of the PVC...otherwise they would return...a revolving door...no progress...I would think....No?

What ever happened..is it posted some where else?
Thanks,
« Last Edit: May 03, 2011, 12:59:23 AM by preston39 » Logged

I'm  Preston
CVNCO
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« Reply #48 on: June 01, 2011, 01:31:38 PM »

Looking for some help with a trap out. This is my first  Smiley

Here is the situation - 3 story fake stone covered deck post.  Bees are entering in a gap in the joists for deck #3. The post has a flagstone top.  It about 2ft square and I think will have a metal post in the center.  Don't want to do a cut out.

Here is my plan -

1) Remove the top stone and any chip board under it. This should give me a good look at what is happening inside the post. 
2) I am then planning to cover the top of the post with plywood with my screen cone. 
3) I will then place the trap out hive next to the cone and close all the other entrances.
4) Monitor

Questions -

1) Cone will be positioned vertical is this an issue and should I make it longer and bend it ?
2) Will giving the bees a new entrance be an issue?

Other thoughts or ideas?

Thanks

Chuck

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G3farms
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« Reply #49 on: June 02, 2011, 11:34:26 AM »

I think the cone straight up in the air would work just fine, if you are wanting to bend it at a 90 degree angle think of using a 4" pvc pipe fitting sitting on top of your plywood with the cone on the other end.

All entrances will have to blocked closed with the exception of the cone.

I am doing a trap out on a fake stone house right now and used the plywood with cone. Put foam padding between the plywood and the stone to take up the biggest gaps, took some skinny wooden strips (think frame wedges) and drove them in like pegs to fill deep cracks, took silicone caulk and went around the edges of the plywood and foam trying not to get too much on the stone itself, and all was held in place with tapcon screws.

Be sure to anchor the bait hive down with a ratchet strap.



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see my swarms and cut outs at https://www.youtube.com/user/soapy22bullet?feature=mhee

those hot bees will have you steppin and a fetchin like your heads on fire and your @ss is a catchin!!!

Bees will be bees and do as they please!
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