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Author Topic: Set up the trap out  (Read 11891 times)
Vibe
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« Reply #20 on: May 28, 2009, 12:06:40 PM »

no honey left because its consumed or bees abscond with it ?
I know I'm a newby, but this seems obvious. There will be no honey left because, with no foragers returning, the remaining brood will deplete it. Any that leave to gather more will be trapped outside. The comb has no other option available than to become empty.
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wayne
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« Reply #21 on: May 30, 2009, 08:08:07 PM »

  The "Grail" if you will of a trap out is to get the Queen. Most simply do a split of their old hive and steal workers from the trapped hive. The hard work so many have invested is in finding a way to keep her as well as the workers.
  With the cone trap as shown the Queen will in time, forced by the lack of food, abscond and fly away from the end of the cone. I and a couple others on another site are trying to use a dark tunnel to let the Queen move in comfort to the new hive. We are trying different setups and equipment with the hope of getting a process that is simple, easy to use, and still effective.
  Hopefuly this summer someone gets it right.
 
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iddee
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« Reply #22 on: May 30, 2009, 08:25:36 PM »

Wayne, you have set yourself up.  Kiss   grin

Now we are going to be watching closely for your follow-ups. I know if a dummy like me can find one successful way to do it, there's got to be a dozen more ways, and some better than mine. Together, we can find the best way. Welcome aboard.
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« Reply #23 on: May 30, 2009, 10:18:07 PM »

this will be a real interesting read and can't wait to see what happens.

G3
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wayne
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« Reply #24 on: June 01, 2009, 11:04:32 PM »

  I don't get many trap outs. Most often the homeowner is unwilling to give me the time to attempt one, leaving only a cutout or a spray job.
  I have one in place now that I am watching.
  The bees have accepted the hive and are moving through the tube in good numbers into and through the the hive. Foragers are returning to the bait hive and traffic is high.
   The hope is that when the queen tries to abscond she will travel down the tube and decide to stay in the hive with her former room mates. The exit is deliberatly small to incourage this.
   IF, this works and I get the queen, I will fine tune the trap to get a more portable and easy to use unit.
   The goal is a single easy to setup unit flexible enough to fit most situations. The beek has only to choose a hive body that will fit the situation and install the trap cover with a ratchet strap or other method, and attach the tube to the existing exit to the nest.
   Everyone needs a challenge now and then, this is mine.  This and that warp drive gizmo.
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Luckyparrot
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« Reply #25 on: June 16, 2009, 01:24:33 AM »

Iddee, did Wayne capture the queen when he said " the queen tries to abscond she will travel down the tube and decide to stay in the hive with her former room mates. The exit is deliberatly small to encourage this" ?
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Luckyparrot
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« Reply #26 on: June 16, 2009, 01:30:01 AM »

 If Wayne's plan works, I'll also do the same thing because I need the queen real bad.
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iddee
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« Reply #27 on: June 16, 2009, 08:41:19 AM »

Wayne only started about 2 weeks ago. It takes 4 to 8 weeks to do a trapout. Maybe he will give updates as time goes by.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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« Reply #28 on: June 26, 2009, 05:02:16 AM »

iddee, wayne, jp, robbo, and all the rest.  THANKS!  iddee, these step by step posts are outstanding.  The rest of u have all given pointers here, or elsewhere.  I appreciate all of this.  I have two trap outs waiting.  I hafta find time to build more boxes etc.  I have run out.  I have been putting them off, because.....well, I needed directions.  LOL  hate to admit that in public, but LOL hafta.  Now I have em.  THANKS, again. 
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dp
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« Reply #29 on: June 15, 2010, 09:09:35 PM »

    Trap out setup


On the day of the setup, I will remove a frame of brood, WITH EGGS,
from my chosen hive, and place it in a warm, shaded area, like the cab
of my truck.

Iddee - Being a new beekeeper, I'm wondering when it is okay to remove a frame of brood.  How many frames of brood/eggs will a strong hive have?  I have what I consider a very strong hive, but being new, I'd hate to pull a frame of brood when that is what they need.  Some of the brood frames are very full, others partial, and yet others just have a few.  Would you take a full one?  I have three trap outs that I'd like to do, but I certainly don't want to compromise my only strong hive to do it.  I'm all ears!

dp
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iddee
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« Reply #30 on: June 15, 2010, 10:36:47 PM »

a strong hive can give up one frame of brood and eggs without hurting it.
Set the first trap with it. 7 to 8 days later, you should have multiple capped queen cells. Cut one out and install it in the next trap out. Cut another one for the third trap.

OR

As long as you have 4 frames of brood or more left in the strong hive, it will stay strong. Set one trap weekly and it should supply you with 3 frames of eggs without hurting it. "one frame each week.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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« Reply #31 on: June 15, 2010, 11:52:35 PM »

There's a fellow that does this successfully up here in Virginia. He's actually got one going now and posted it on his blog. He uses pvc pipe or something, instead of the screened cone that folks use here, connecting it directly to the back of his hive.

He claims to have retrieved the queen more times then most. He wrote something about her coming out by week 3 or 4 because she needed water.

I'll post the link from work tomorrow (it's on my work email.)
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jajtiii
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« Reply #32 on: June 16, 2010, 08:57:26 AM »

Here's the link : http://aspenhoneybees.blogspot.com/2010/05/funnel-setup-on-tree-hollow.html

This guy is in a beekeeping association with a friend of mine (so, I do not know him personally.) But, my buddy setup a trap out with this fellow's help about 8 or 9 days ago. It's still 'in progress', but they expect to have the queen before it is over.
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dp
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« Reply #33 on: June 16, 2010, 10:20:11 AM »

Interesting info.  Thanks for the responses.
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iddee
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« Reply #34 on: June 16, 2010, 12:36:22 PM »

I thought you were going to post a link to the successful guy's blog. I have known many who used that method, without success. I think Robo has one on his trash pile that he retired some time ago. Keep us posted on how this one works out.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
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« Reply #35 on: June 16, 2010, 12:50:34 PM »

Unfortunately, the guy that uses this successfully (on the exact same tree as the one setup by the fellow in this blog, over the past years) is an old timer. I don't think he even has an email address...much less a blog. 'I don't need no computer to tend my bees...'

I can do you one better on keeping you up to date. I will be setting this system up on a tree within the next couple of weeks (the tree is in the backyard of a fellow that has some renovation going on - we decided to wait for them to finish the outside painting before I started my thing. I'll post pictures of the whole process and successes/failures thereof.
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iddee
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« Reply #36 on: June 16, 2010, 01:19:36 PM »

Thanks... I'm sure it will be interesting.

For years, I heard trapping didn't work. I developed a way that it did work. I'm sure there are a number of other ways it will work. They just need to be developed. Maybe this way will be even better than mine.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
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« Reply #37 on: June 16, 2010, 02:03:53 PM »

Yes,  I too will be interested in seeing how this goes.  The only trap-outs that I have had difficulty with where when I couldn't get the entrance of the trap hive close to the base of the cone as Iddee's method recommends.  I'm not sure I understand how you will prevent the bees from returning to the tree.

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sqkcrk
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« Reply #38 on: June 16, 2010, 04:31:22 PM »

How do you make your cones? They look like you took a piece of screen and wrapped it in a way that it became conical. Do you then glue the overlap? How do you get it to stay in shape?
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iddee
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« Reply #39 on: June 16, 2010, 04:37:03 PM »

Cut the hole in the back board first. Then wrap the wire as you say, into a cone. Push it into the hole until it stops. Trim it 1 inch outside the back of the board. Clip it so it will fold over and staple it to the back of the board. It will stay in place if not too large. For the extra large ones, I lace it together with wire. Frame wire works well.

PS... NOT screen. 1/8 in. hardware cloth. Screen will collapse and clog the exit.

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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
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