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Author Topic: Materials for a trap out  (Read 9558 times)
iddee
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« on: February 26, 2009, 10:19:47 PM »

The cone, with an exit hole sufficient to allow two drones to exit together...Must be 1/8 inch hardware cloth. Screen will collapse and clog up, preventing the bees from getting out. 1/4 inch will allow the bees to pass through.

a piece of plywood with a hole in it, size varying with the different jobs.





a tube of silicone caulk and caulking gun.
Screws and screwdriver
Catch box, either hive body, super, or nuc, with all frames except one.
One frame of brood and EGGS. Yes, I capitalized EGGS.
Platform to mount catch box on, preferably adjustable height.




Normal set of equipment carried for a removal.
Expect edits to this post as I remember other things I am forgetting at this time.

« Last Edit: February 26, 2009, 10:51:32 PM by iddee » Logged

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JP
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« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2009, 10:47:47 PM »

I seem to be finding more and more single story brick exterior homes where hives have built between the brick and blackboard, they can be a cut out nightmare, because the bees will extend comb as far as they want to left and right and because its attached to brick and mortar.


...JP
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RayMarler
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« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2009, 02:41:37 AM »

Very nice post iddee!
You've made the procedure much more simple for me, if I ever have the chance to do one. Cheesy
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JP
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« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2009, 09:46:29 AM »

First stupid question, how do you make your cones and keep them from unraveling?


...JP
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iddee
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« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2009, 10:56:10 AM »

I roll the cone a bit smaller than I need it to be, then push it through the hole in the plywood until it stops. It will spread a small amount when released. On the larger ones, I lace the wire in 2 or 3 spots along the cone. The smaller ones won't need it. Then I trim the wire behind the board about 3/4 to 1 inch. I clip the wire to where it will fold down against the plywood and I staple it.

Not a stupid question, once it is asked. Only the unasked ones are stupid.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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JP
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« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2009, 11:10:32 AM »

So, how close to the catch box does the cone need to be, the pointy end of course.


...JP
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« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2009, 11:17:05 AM »

First stupid question, how do you make your cones and keep them from unraveling?


...JP


Not try to butt in on Iddee's thread......

You can find cone calculators on the internet to help you lay out a pattern.  Of course the one I used is now gone, but here is a similar one.
http://www.kolumbus.fi/antti.lusila/models/laskekartio.html

I made a couple of different sized patterns out of poster board that I just lay on the screen and trace with a sharpie.

Lacing the cone together with the wire you embed in foundation works well.  Also hot glue works well with aluminum screen.    For some reason,  the majority of the trap outs I get are in a corner so a flat board doesn't work. to secure them.

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iddee
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« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2009, 07:48:23 PM »

Whatta ya mean "not to butt in"? Heck, I need all the help I can get. Get in here and lend a hand.

Watch the screen, tho, as said above, it will collapse and stop up your exit. That will cause the bees to look for another exit, usually inside the house. NOT GOOD for public relations. 1/8 in. hardware cloth is all I will use.

JP, I'll cover cone placement in the set up post. It will be coming soon.

I'll also cover setting the cone in a corner. You will be able to use a flat board, but with shims.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2009, 09:15:19 PM »

Watch the screen, tho, as said above, it will collapse and stop up your exit.

I have never had a problem with it, so never gave it much thought.  But can't argue with you, the #8 is much more rigid.  There are enough other things that can go wrong,  so why add another.  The main reason I used screen was that it was flexible enough to easily bend/twist in and around corners.  But with the #8, it looks like you can re-use your cones over and over.  With the screen it is one and done.  Looking forward to how you deal with the corners.

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cundald
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« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2009, 03:43:12 PM »

Should the cone be double walled.
What prevents the bee from passing the nectar throw the screen to others side. huh

cundald
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iddee
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« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2009, 06:13:59 PM »

Once the inside bees enter the cone, they will continue until they exit. There are none in the cone to pass the nectar to. They don't realize there is a problem until they have exited, then it is too late.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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defendthecommons
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« Reply #11 on: May 24, 2009, 02:23:06 PM »

Hi folks
I have a trapout opportunity and need advice on placement of my hive catch box. This is my first time trying this.
The hive entrance is at the top of a bay window that has a flat roof, very old house. The bees go in a little crack at the corner of where the top of the bay window meets the molding of the side of the house. And the hive extends down the whole second floor wall, which is easy to hear. AND! The queen likes to pipe when the beekeeper comes to see them!! Amazing piping. That's another story... 2 queens?

So, I want to put my deep and super stacked on the roof of the bay window, which places the entrance ABOVE the current one, and about 6-12 inches from the current entrance.  Is that OK? Can I construct my cone to go upward to the bay window roof?

PS. What would happen if I drilled a hole in the wall where the hive is, down low toward the second floor where I hear the hive seems to end, and smoked them a lot? Would that scare them enough to think they're on fire, gorge and then head for the exit? What would the queen do? Would she get out as well, out the cone, and walk into my new hive?

Thanks
D
Dutchess County, NY (Millbrook, New York)











« Last Edit: May 24, 2009, 03:24:05 PM by eivindm » Logged
iddee
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« Reply #12 on: May 24, 2009, 03:39:14 PM »

That looks like a good candidate for an entrance re-location. It's similar to this one.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/Iddee/TRAP%20OUTS/bees034.jpg

Please read these links, as most of your questions are answered there. If you have doubts after reading, get back to me and I'll try to answer them.

http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,20301.0.html
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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The Bix
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« Reply #13 on: July 15, 2009, 11:04:32 AM »

Where do you find 1/8" hardware cloth?  I have been to Home Depot, been on the Lowe's website and called all the Ace Hardware stores and the smallest mesh they carry is 1/4"...at least that seems to be the case here in the Denver area.  Any other sources?

Thanks!
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joker1656
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« Reply #14 on: July 15, 2009, 11:17:55 AM »

Here is probably a simple question, but how long will the brood/eggs sit before the bees will take care of them?  Obviously, not too long since you, iddee, have done this numerous times.  Is there a chance they will start making a queen right away? 
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« Reply #15 on: July 15, 2009, 11:24:05 AM »

Where do you find 1/8" hardware cloth?  I have been to Home Depot, been on the Lowe's website and called all the Ace Hardware stores and the smallest mesh they carry is 1/4"...at least that seems to be the case here in the Denver area.  Any other sources?

Thanks!


http://www.betterbee.com/products.asp?dept=522
http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com/8-Mesh-Hardware-Cloth-1-Linear-Ft/productinfo/539/
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hardware-cloth/=2r99l6
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joker1656
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« Reply #16 on: July 15, 2009, 11:37:48 AM »

I guess what I am really asking about the queen is, is there a chance that they will make a queen, and the old queen come out?  If that happens, I guess, nature takes its course.  Huh  Regardless, I am going to try it again, and see what happens. 
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iddee
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« Reply #17 on: July 15, 2009, 11:49:48 AM »

The bees will begin tending the brood within a couple hours of setting the trap. There will be queen cells within 24 to 48 hours. If the trapped colony is over a month or two old, the queen will not come out before the new queen emerges, and will likely continue for parts unknown when she does. She may take the catch box if the swarm just moved in within the last few days.
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"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

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« Reply #18 on: September 03, 2010, 03:35:33 PM »

#8 hardware cloth can be special ordered from Ace's.  Cheapest prices I've seen and gets to you in under a week.
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Meadlover
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« Reply #19 on: October 09, 2010, 09:04:02 AM »

What do you guys use to fill voids to block all the entrances?
For small gaps I have used silicone, for large gaps I have cut pieces of plywood to fit and siliconed them in, as well as used stainless steel wool for weep holes.

What about medium sized hard to get holes?
I am looking at a trapout but there are a few gaps that need filling, and they are recessed to the point I won't be able to get pieces of plywood in there. There are 2 holes in particular about fist sized, so silicon by itself is out.

I was thinking of a crapload of stainless steel wool? Any suggestions?

Thanks

ML
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