Need Bees Removed?
International
Beekeeping Forums
October 22, 2014, 02:59:59 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News: ATTENTION ALL NEW MEMBERS
PLEASE READ THIS OR YOUR ACCOUNT MAY BE DELETED - CLICK HERE
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar bee removal Login Register Chat  

Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Materials for a trap out  (Read 10072 times)
iddee
Galactic Bee
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6128

Location: Randleman, NC


« Reply #20 on: October 09, 2010, 09:09:57 AM »

Why not just some old rags?
Logged

"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
Meadlover
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 216

Location: Gold Coast Hinterland, QLD, Australia


« Reply #21 on: October 09, 2010, 09:20:50 AM »

Hmmmm, a much simpler response than I was thinking - love it. I was worried they might chew through material eventually.

Well I might give this trapout a go this coming week after I make myself a set of cones, since my 1 and only cone is in use at the moment Smiley

Thanks iddee
Logged
Robo
Technical
Administrator
Galactic Bee
*******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6411


Location: Scenic Catskill Mountains - NY

Beekeep On!


WWW
« Reply #22 on: October 09, 2010, 11:54:49 AM »

I find balling up aluminum foil works well.   You can use your hive tool to tightly pack it in.
Logged

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison


Meadlover
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 216

Location: Gold Coast Hinterland, QLD, Australia


« Reply #23 on: October 09, 2010, 07:28:10 PM »

I like that one too Robo. I think I might use a combo of both rags and alfoil on this trapout.
Thanks guys.
Logged
Acebird
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 955


Location: Utica, NY

Just getting started


« Reply #24 on: December 14, 2010, 03:30:57 PM »

It works!  I got all the confidence in the world but could someone explain something to me?  If there is an exit hole large enough for 2 drones then why can't they go back in?  I am assuming it is something like a lobster trap.  Also, could someone give me the English version of "2 drone" diameter?  I am guessing 1/4 to 3/8 diameter.
Logged

Never thought I would do it!
iddee
Galactic Bee
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6128

Location: Randleman, NC


« Reply #25 on: December 14, 2010, 04:52:30 PM »

If you use a solid cone, such as a funnel, they will go back in. If you use 1/8 in. hardware cloth, they see only the wire "fence" and cannot distinguish the entrance from the smaller holes. They do not see the cone shape.

Yes, approx. 3/8 inch Diameter, maybe even a half inch.
Logged

"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
Acebird
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 955


Location: Utica, NY

Just getting started


« Reply #26 on: December 14, 2010, 05:14:53 PM »

Thank you.  Very interesting
Logged

Never thought I would do it!
preston39
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 65

Location: Paducah, Ky-Smithland actually


« Reply #27 on: May 03, 2011, 01:16:26 AM »

I like that one too Robo. I think I might use a combo of both rags and alfoil on this trapout.
Thanks guys.
=========
Would a can of foam insulation work?
I am getting ready to do a trap out of an oak tree with an odd entrance/exit configuration and plan to use it around the board to control the exit.... would like to know if it may be ok.
Thanks,
Logged

I'm  Preston
Tommyt
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 855


Location: TampaBay Fl


« Reply #28 on: May 03, 2011, 06:59:36 AM »

Just a FYI
I have used silver color metal window screening and it has worked well
I don't overlap it very much so its stays some what transparent 
I am doing one as I type ,I'll try and get a Pic of it

If you use the foam you will kill a bunch of bees Now that I mentioned the screen maybe you could use it
for the hard to stopup,angle's on the tree??

Tommyt
Logged

"Not everything found on the internet is accurate"
Abraham Lincoln
iddee
Galactic Bee
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6128

Location: Randleman, NC


« Reply #29 on: May 03, 2011, 07:33:59 AM »

Bees will remove the foam after it sets.
Logged

"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
preston39
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 65

Location: Paducah, Ky-Smithland actually


« Reply #30 on: May 03, 2011, 07:41:43 AM »

Just a FYI
I have used silver color metal window screening and it has worked well
I don't overlap it very much so its stays some what transparent 
I am doing one as I type ,I'll try and get a Pic of it

If you use the foam you will kill a bunch of bees Now that I mentioned the screen maybe you could use it
for the hard to stopup,angle's on the tree??

Tommyt
====
Tommyt,
Thanks,
I failed to mention that I planned to put s screen at an angle between limb and trunk...at an angle up to the board creating a 3-5" channel to the board exit hole...then put the foam on top of the screen to block several small rotten cavities in the limb and tree which could be used as exits. The foam would not come in contact with the bees....unless they choose to contact it where it fills the hole(s) I will not use it if fumes from it may hurt the bees.....? Or are you thinking of them chewing on it and hurting themselves?
Logged

I'm  Preston
ShaneJ
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 519


Location: Burpengary, Queensland, Australia.


« Reply #31 on: November 02, 2011, 06:42:27 AM »

Hi iddee,

You say

Quote
Catch box, either hive body, super, or nuc, with all frames except one.
One frame of brood and EGGS. Yes, I capitalized EGGS.

Do you mean all frames except for one to allow for the frame of brood and eggs? ie in a full, use 9 frames plus the frame of brood and eggs?

Are the frames with or without foundation?

Thanks mate
Logged

Shane
ShaneJ
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 519


Location: Burpengary, Queensland, Australia.


« Reply #32 on: November 02, 2011, 06:59:43 AM »

I have another question regarding the "hardware cloth".
Here in Oz we don't have easy access to your #8 (1/8" \ 3.175mm) mesh. What we do have easy access to is 3mm mesh with 1.2mm wire dia or 3.3mm mesh with .91mm wire dia.

I imagine the smaller wire diameter would be more suitable but I am unsure if the 3.3mm 'holes' would be too large?

Any input on this?

Thanks
Logged

Shane
Intheswamp
Queen Bee
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1481

Location: South Central Alabama - Zone 8A


WWW
« Reply #33 on: November 02, 2011, 07:40:42 AM »

ShaneJ, #7 wire mesh is roughly .143 inches and is believed to be almost perfect for using in building small hive beetle traps...lets the bigger beetles through but keeps the bees in/out.  Unfortunately it's about as scarce as hen's teeth. Sad   

#6 mesh wire (which is reported to let *some* bees through) works out to something like .167 inches.   

Your 3.3mm works out to being roughly .130 inches which is a tighter mesh than even the #7 wire mesh is and should hold the bees fine.

This is considering that I've disregarded wire gauge in my calculations and that all my calculations are correct, which I believe they are being as I took my boots off so I could use all of my digits. Wink

Best wishes!
Ed
Logged

www.beeweather.com 
American blood spilled to protect the freedom and peace of people all over the world.  320,000 USA casualties in WWI, 1,076,000 USA casualties in WWII, 128,000 USA casualties in the Korean War, 211,000 casualties in the Vietnam "conflict", 57,000 USA casualties in "War on Terror".  Benghazi, Libya, 13 USA casualties. These figures don't include 70,000 MIA.  But, the leaders of one political party of the United States of America continue to make the statement..."What difference does it make?".

"We can't expect the American People to jump from Capitalism to Communism, but we can assist their elected leaders in giving them small doses of Socialism, until they awaken one day to find that they have Communism."..."The press is our chief ideological weapon." - Nikita Khrushchev

"Always go to other people’s funerals, otherwise they wont come to yours." - Yogi Berra
ShaneJ
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 519


Location: Burpengary, Queensland, Australia.


« Reply #34 on: November 02, 2011, 09:24:11 AM »

Thanks Ed, very helpful.

I do have yet another question that I have found conflicting answers to. The frame that I source from my existing hive with eggs and brood, is it ok to take some bees with it? If not what is the best way to remove the bees without disturbing the eggs?
Logged

Shane
iddee
Galactic Bee
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6128

Location: Randleman, NC


« Reply #35 on: November 02, 2011, 09:37:31 AM »

The catch box should contain the egg frame, plus enough frames to fill the box.

Either wire should work. Use the one that is easier to fold and mold into a cone.

Shake the bees off the egg frame, leave them on, or place a whole weak hive on the trap with queen, to bolster it's strength. It doesn't matter.
Logged

"Listen to the mustn'ts, child. Listen to the don'ts. Listen to the shouldn'ts, the impossibles, the won'ts. Listen to the never haves, then listen close to me . . . Anything can happen, child. Anything can be"

*Shel Silverstein*
ShaneJ
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 519


Location: Burpengary, Queensland, Australia.


« Reply #36 on: November 02, 2011, 06:44:15 PM »

Thanks mate.

Shane
Logged

Shane
ShaneJ
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 519


Location: Burpengary, Queensland, Australia.


« Reply #37 on: November 03, 2011, 05:07:48 AM »

I have just read about 60 posts on this forum regarding foundationless frames. I don't have the time or the equipment at this stage to modify frames with guides etc, so will using frames with fresh foundation be ok with the one frame of eggs/brood?

Thanks
Logged

Shane
Jim 134
Super Bee
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2277


Location: Hinsdale, New Hampshire 03451 USA


WWW
« Reply #38 on: November 03, 2011, 06:21:24 AM »

I have just read about 60 posts on this forum regarding foundationless frames. I don't have the time or the equipment at this stage to modify frames with guides etc, so will using frames with fresh foundation be ok with the one frame of eggs/brood?

Thanks

 I read one frame EGGS
and

May bee one a frame of brood  huh


   BEE HAPPY Jim 134 Smiley
Logged

"Tell me and I'll forget,show me and I may  remember,involve me and I'll understand"
        Chinese Proverb

"The farmer is the only man in our economy who buys everything at retail, sells everything at wholesale, and pays the freight both ways."
 John F. Kennedy
Franklin County Beekeepers Association MA. http://www.franklinmabeekeepers.org/
ShaneJ
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 519


Location: Burpengary, Queensland, Australia.


« Reply #39 on: November 03, 2011, 06:46:52 AM »

In Iddee's other thread "Setup the trap out" he says:

Quote
On the day of the setup, I will remove a frame of brood, WITH EGGS,

I have read Iddee's posts over and over just to get the plan set out in my head.

Logged

Shane
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Beemaster's Beekeeping Ring
Previous | Home | Join | Random | Next
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines | Sitemap Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.234 seconds with 22 queries.

Google visited last this page September 30, 2014, 08:09:32 PM
anything