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Author Topic: Need peach tree help!  (Read 11790 times)
Shawn
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« on: February 19, 2009, 01:35:50 PM »

I planted a peach tree about 10 years ago and it was doing great until about three years ago. We had a great crop and the main part of the tree split leaving me with a mess. Two years ago the tree produced great and more major splits even after trying to enenforce the branches. I have posted some pictures of what I am left with. Can anyone give a pruning tips or suggestions on what I should do?





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BjornBee
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« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2009, 02:54:11 PM »

That thing is kind of a mess.

I'm not going to try to give directions on pruning, it would be hard to do. But pruning is about "seeing" where future growth should be, taking into account fruit position, opening up the branches to help with sunlight and to fend off moisture diseases, etc.

I would ask if someone from the local gardening club would like to pay you a visit. And do not be surprised if the initial prune is heavy. It will take a couple years to get it to where it should be. I also would not hesitate to plant this trees "replacement". Some new trees will start giving off fruit after just a few years. If the main tree is split, this may be something to consider.

Realize also, that fruit growers "thin" the fruit. If it were not for thinning, they would never get the quality of fruit they get, and the trees would be forever splitting on them.

Are you also fertilizing?
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« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2009, 03:25:31 PM »

I pmed Bud for you and provided the link to this post. He can give you some ideas. Ann can as well, Reinbeau, the gardening beek.


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« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2009, 07:59:02 PM »

take out the tall center branch. this will be radical but the best configuration for peach production is a central trunk with 3 to 4 scaffold limbs coming off the main trunk.

once this is established the goal is to take out everything in the center of the tree.
once the proper setup is obtained the tree should be shaped like an upside down umbrella.
each year take out the new wood in the center.
peaches only set fruit on 1 year old wood ( last years new wood )

prune every spring and keep the center clear.

( my dad had a farm and we planted and maintained 4000 peach trees )

the pruning pattern was the recomendation of the lsu ag center.

bailey
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« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2009, 08:36:33 PM »

I live on the heart of the Georgia peach belt. I never saw a peach tree that looks like that. I will try to snap and post a picture of some newly pruned trees that you can use as a guide.

Steve
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« Reply #5 on: February 19, 2009, 10:51:11 PM »

The tree is definitely in need of some corrective pruning and bailey and asprince have good suggestions.  My method of prunning would probably vary a little from bailey's but essentially the premise is the same.  Different roads to the same place.
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« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2009, 11:16:37 AM »

Thanks for the info. I know it is a mess and tried pruning it up each year but more and more peaches appeared and broke the limbs. When you said the tall center branch, did you mean the main trunk? If so how far down do I cut it.  If anyone wants I can email them the original picture so the size woudl be a lot larger and you can see it better. Image shack keeps it shrunk down.
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« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2009, 08:10:08 PM »

I have a question if you dont mind, when is the best time to prune a peach tree?  While it is dormant I presume.  So can this be done even just before spring as long as the weather is still moderately cold and before the the bloom begins? Like right now?
-pc
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BjornBee
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« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2009, 09:46:38 PM »

I have a question if you dont mind, when is the best time to prune a peach tree?  While it is dormant I presume.  So can this be done even just before spring as long as the weather is still moderately cold and before the the bloom begins? Like right now?
-pc

Yes
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« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2009, 12:02:52 PM »

I went to our local dealer for trees and found they will not be having any fruit trees this year, the third year in a row. Anyone know of a good fruit tree dealer? I found one on the internet and saved their info but my computer crashed and lost the info. I know they were somewhere in Pa.
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« Reply #10 on: February 24, 2009, 12:07:09 PM »

Two years ago I purchased about a dozen trees from Adams County Nursery in Pa. They were friendly, the tress are doing well too. One tree died, and they replaced it w/o any hassle too. This will be my 3rd year and I expect some fruit. They did fruit even the first year, but I removed them. Last year I left about 12 fruit per tree but squirrels got to them. I got a mixture of apple, peach and pear. No complaints and they have multiple types of root stock for various soils and heights.
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« Reply #11 on: February 24, 2009, 12:14:31 PM »

Konasdad, I think that is the one  shocked Thanks
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« Reply #12 on: February 24, 2009, 01:00:23 PM »

Mmmm...grilled squirrel marinated in a peach vinagrette!!  grin
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« Reply #13 on: February 24, 2009, 01:33:02 PM »

peaches need pruned anytime before the sap runs and buds start.   The tree pictured is seriousl wild,  it needs cut WAY back.    All those wild brances should be cut back at least 2 feet.   pick the most solid  brances when its loaded (structuraly)  they may be teh main trunk,  maybe not...  but the brances that split definatly should be cut back to almost nothing.   you don't want a bunch of fruit on them.   When your done cutting you stand back and think OMG  what did I do.... And it will be perfect.  The tree will form new branches and will fruit well from the main trunks....  all those wild brances make leaves and dangly fruit,  which tends to get lost or strangled easily.....
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Shawn
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« Reply #14 on: February 24, 2009, 11:08:36 PM »

I guess I dont know what you guys mean by getting rid of the wild branches  huh. There are the two big branches at the bottom and then nothing for a long ways and then you got the top portion. I dont care what it looks like in the end I just dont want to cut it down because it has always produced great fruit. 
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« Reply #15 on: February 25, 2009, 09:31:48 AM »

Look at this  I think my marks saved  (I paintshopped it)
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Shawn
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« Reply #16 on: February 25, 2009, 10:40:51 AM »

Sorry dont see anything.
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« Reply #17 on: February 25, 2009, 01:28:15 PM »

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« Reply #18 on: February 25, 2009, 01:29:33 PM »

okay so I am not good at this yet,  I think I got it  the thin black lines would be the trim lines.  keep in mind the image resolution and the background make it an aproximation.  but I think it will make sense.
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Shawn
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« Reply #19 on: February 25, 2009, 10:55:55 PM »

Thanks. I sea few of the lines so Ill try to do my best.
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Shawn
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« Reply #20 on: February 26, 2009, 11:26:49 AM »

KONASDAD, I got a message back from Adams County here is the quote:

"Our availability is unfortunately very limited for spring shipment, but I have attached a current availability list for you to review.
You want to be sure to use drought tolerant roots where possible. For apple - EMLA 26 is the most drought tolerant dwarf root and either EMLA 106 or EMLA 111 are the best for semi-dwarf.
Sweet cherries are extremely subject to drought stress so water will be very critical, especially in the 1st season. You could use Mahaleb or Mazzard stocks. Any of our varieties would work.
Unfortunately plums do not do well in sand at all, and we would encourage a peach planting over plum. Most any of our peach varieties would work. Just stay away from the varieties that are more susceptible to bacterial spot (i.e. Sunhigh, Beekman or any of the Zaiger selections).
Thank you for contacting us. Please let us know if you have any further questions."

What do they mean by root stock? Im looking for a big tree at maturity so does the word "dwarf root stock" mean the tree is going to be small? 
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KONASDAD
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« Reply #21 on: February 26, 2009, 03:20:21 PM »

The root stock is grafted on to all fruit trees nowadays as most people dont want standard size trees. The root will dictate the height of the tree for starters. I went w/ emla111 I think. Truthfully, I would trust their expertise as they have never steered me wrong. You can choose of you want a dwarfr, semi0dwarf or standar height tree and compliment that choice w/ a root that might do better for your soil type. Tell them your soil type and how big a tee you want, let them choose. Remmeber, standard tree can get to 25 ft or more and can be very difficult to prune and harvest. The size of the fruit is not affected at all. I have a "patio peach" which is no bigger than 2ft and has these huge peaches. Just about 12, but huge nonetheless.
Hope this helps. I am sure someone who knows more will respond w/ add'l info. There catalogue also does a good job af educating you to whats available.
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« Reply #22 on: April 01, 2009, 03:13:22 PM »

Ok, just finished trimming up the tree. Took quite a few branches off and trimmed back the rest. The tree looks dead now.



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« Reply #23 on: April 03, 2009, 12:24:58 AM »

Looks good to me.  Good job for an amateur.   grin
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« Reply #24 on: April 10, 2009, 11:03:51 PM »

KONASDAD, I got in 30 different types of fruit trees from Adams County. I ended up planting 9 in my backyard and have so many people trying to buy the rest. If they would have told me before I ordered I could have ordered an extra 25 and been able to get rid of them. Ive never bought or planted bare root trees but the trees appear to be in great shape. The peaches are just starting to bud out their flowers and the rest are getting ready to bud. You were right about letting them pick the trees. Thanks for getting me the link for the place.
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Shawn
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« Reply #25 on: September 16, 2009, 02:11:44 PM »

Its now fall and here are the pictures of the new fruit trees and the old peach tree. I am going to trim up the old peach tree this spring becuase there are yellow jackets somewhere inside them now.

The four little trees you can see are all apple trees. The closest is doing the best and when planted were all the same size. I wish I would have left the tags on them to know what each were.



Tow little ones are peach trees. I will trim them up as the company siad in the spring. Sure are small. Total of three were planted plus the old one is still here.



Here is a different view so you can see three apple, old peach, two little peaches.


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Shawn
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« Reply #26 on: April 15, 2010, 11:57:30 AM »

Well it has been a year later and here is a picture of the trees I planted last year.







This is the old peach tree that I had to trim up. I am waiting for all the blooms to go away and then Ill trim it back again to help prevent over weighting a limb.





Here is a picture of a small tree in my front yard. When I bought it they said it was "kind of" like a red bud tree. Nice pink/red flowers but the bees simply leave it alone.



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« Reply #27 on: April 15, 2010, 12:00:11 PM »

Well I got a pop up while using Image Shack so I had to close out before I posted the last picture. Here is a close up of the tree the bees simply dont like.



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« Reply #28 on: April 17, 2010, 05:38:34 PM »

The bees may like it, sometimes something else blooms that is more productive or they like better at the time.
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« Reply #29 on: February 21, 2012, 06:37:26 PM »

Well an update to the tree. It died after I got done with it. A friend was part of a BBQ cook off and wanted a peach tree to smoke the BBQ. Should have said I would let him have the tree if he let me have some of the BBQ.
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« Reply #30 on: February 21, 2012, 07:06:50 PM »

Should have said "You can have the wood if you buy me 10 more plants...that way I can keep you supplied with pruning s".

Scott
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« Reply #31 on: February 21, 2012, 08:32:47 PM »

Another project gone up in smoke.
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Shawn
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« Reply #32 on: February 22, 2012, 03:48:18 PM »

We have an organization in the area called the Northeast Prowers Conservation District, or something like that. They sell trees, shrubs, drip systems, and teach classes on conservation and how to help with the area. I ordered two more apple trees, two sets of plum trees, different kinds, three more peach trees, and I will pickup some more native plum trees, Sandhill Plums. After planted I will have 6 apple trees all diferent kinds, 6 peach trees different types but not white, three pear trees, 12 or so Sandhill plum trees, two cherry trees. I figured if Im going to water my property I might as well get something back from it.
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« Reply #33 on: February 23, 2012, 03:44:57 AM »

Lots of red bud trees here in Michigan too (Cercis Canadensis).  Iíve never noticed the bees going after them.  Here they are relatively short lived trees.  After they start to reach a nice size, large branches start dying off.  They see a lot of chainsaw action.

My cherries are in mortal combat with the rabbits.  I finally resorted to putting beautiful looking orange snow fence around them to keep the rabbits at bay this winter grin  Iíve also found that lot of bugs like to eat cherry Sad
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« Reply #34 on: March 10, 2012, 09:22:07 PM »

Lots of red bud trees here in Michigan too (Cercis Canadensis).  Iíve never noticed the bees going after them.  Here they are relatively short lived trees.  After they start to reach a nice size, large branches start dying off.  They see a lot of chainsaw action.

My cherries are in mortal combat with the rabbits.  I finally resorted to putting beautiful looking orange snow fence around them to keep the rabbits at bay this winter grin  Iíve also found that lot of bugs like to eat cherry Sad

Sounds like a good reason to have pan fried rabbit. MMMMM !!! Wink
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