>How will me starting these hives effect the amout of fruit my orchard will produce?"
If you get the bees before they bloom, it will probably make a difference.
>"I Know in a Langstroth hive a queen excluder can be used to keep the queen in the brood stores and out of the honey stores. How is the brood comb and the honey comb kept seperate in a TBH???"
Bees are not looking to raise brood all over the place. They want the brood together so they can keep it warm. It's not a problem. I don't use an excluder in my regular hives either.
>"In the event I would instert these packages, and I either lose the queen or the brood rejects the new queen and leaves her behind, in one if the new hives...What would be my next step?"
If they don't like the queen or she dies they will move next door where there is a queen.
>" I intend on capturing some ferral swarms later on...Is there a danger of infecting or introducing an illness to my other bees by moving in a hive of "wild" bees along side my packaged bees?"
Feral bees are more likely to be healthy than "store bought" bees. They HAVE to survive on their own. No one is propping them up with antibiotics and pesticides.
>When I introduce my new bees to my TBH's, Should I use a false back and gradually increase the area in the hive as the colony increases?
It's a fine idea if you have one. I've never bothered to make one.
>Or should I just put them into the open hive and let the bees fill the bars in thier own time?
That's what I do.http://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm