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Author Topic: Newbee wants advice on where to buy frames  (Read 1765 times)
winenutguy
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« on: October 05, 2008, 12:57:24 AM »

Hello all!  First, I would like to thank everyone that has been answering my many questions.  As a newbee both to bees and this forum I would just like to say that I really appreciate everyone's kindness and great advice.  With a special thank you to Cindi, Brian and Mr. Bush.  (The one in Nebraska)
I have decided to go foundationless and as a winter project I would like to start putting popsicle sticks in frames.  I'm going to do med. boxes and have two hives so I'm thinking I'll need around 90 frames.  (9 frames per box, 10 boxes).  Any suggestions on where to buy this many frames?  Are any of the major mail order companies better than another?  Thank you again one and all for your help.  Winenutguy
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2008, 08:11:44 AM »

I'm fond of Walter T. Kelley frames, not only because of the quality, but because you can order them with solid bottom bars and give the Small Hive Beetles and the wax moths one less place to hide that the bees can't get to.
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
poka-bee
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« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2008, 11:59:49 AM »

Western Bee is closest to us so shipping would be less.  That's where I got my stuff.  Shipping will be even less if you have a "store" accept the delivery.  My local feedstore was gracious enough to accept mine.  Saved $35.  J.
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doak
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« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2008, 01:37:53 PM »

I would re think the 9 frame deal.
You want 10 frames in the brood chamber at all times.
10 frames until the comb is fully drawn out, in the honey super.
Once the full frame has been drawn out and you x-tract the honey then you can put back as 9 frames.
The bees will draw it father out and you will have a fatter frame of honey, which is easier to uncap.
The 9 fat frames has as much honey as 10 slim ones.

You will get an erratic comb using only 9 frames to begin with.
You may even consider starting with every other frame with foundation to get a more even comb.

What I'd do.
doak Smiley
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Moonshae
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« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2008, 09:24:07 PM »

I've found that when adding a box of foundationless or starter strips to a drawn box, they try to draw up from the bottom. You will probably need to move a frame or two up from the bottom for the bees to use as a guide. But definitely, 10 frames per box in the brood area, and let them draw out all 10 frames in a honey super before reducing to 9.
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #5 on: October 06, 2008, 09:32:25 PM »

I'd either do ten in a ten frame box and eight in an eight frame box, or I'd shave the end bars down and do eleven in an ten frame box or nine in an eight frame box.
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
winenutguy
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« Reply #6 on: October 06, 2008, 10:00:45 PM »

O.K.  Sounds like I need to do 10 instead of 9.  I'm still a little confused about something.  When I get my bees next spring what do I need to have in the way of frames and foundation waiting for them?  Do I just need frames with popsicle strips?  Do I need one of two frames of drawn comb or foundation?  If I need a combination of both what's a good formula?  Given that I want small cells what's the way to go?  Winenutguy.
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Brian D. Bray
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« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2008, 10:05:54 PM »

The best thing to do is to ALWAYS use the correct number of frames a hive is designed for in the brood chamber.  You can go to a frame less in supers but as this makes the comb wider, it also defeats the option of mvoing frames from super to brood chamber when necessary. 
IMO, using less frames in a honey super just makes more work over the cost of a frame or two.  Other's will proabably disagree, but I've tried it and found it more a hinderance than a help.
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Michael Bush
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« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2008, 07:08:59 AM »

>When I get my bees next spring what do I need to have in the way of frames and foundation waiting for them?  Do I just need frames with popsicle strips?  Do I need one of two frames of drawn comb or foundation?  If I need a combination of both what's a good formula?  Given that I want small cells what's the way to go?

A frame of foundation has the advantage of establishing a line and giving them a ladder, but I've started many without any, just foundationless frames.  It's cheap insurance though.  In an empty super above the initial box, it's more helpful than the initial box as they are hanging from the frames in the first box.  As you add the second, putting a drawn comb in it gives them a ladder and establishes a line for the combs.  Without it, they sometimes build from the bottom up.
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Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
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"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
winenutguy
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« Reply #9 on: October 09, 2008, 04:01:10 PM »

Thank you all for the great info.  A special thank you to Brian for having me at his house Tuesday to see his operation.  Thank you Brian!  Winenutguy.
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