Bushkill 4-way Mating Nuc

[Robo]

Since the demand for my feral stock queens has taken off, I have decided to expand production a bit.  Here are some new 2 frame mating nucs I just finished.  I can make 4 boxes (16 nucs) from one sheet of 3/4" ply, one 1x8x8, and less than a sheet of luan.  Plus a bunch of coroplast election signs and aluminum flashing. These babies should last for years The way things are going, I'll be building plenty more this winter.



Complete plans can be found here -> http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/downloads/

[Frantz]

OH yea, those are awesome, thanks for the pics. Do you have an explanation of how you use those mating nucs on your site? I get the basic idea, but could certainly use a couple of pages of explanation. As I said before, nobody here is selling nucs or queens that I can find. I would like to approach that for next spring. Those look really good. What is the small hole at the bottom for I see only one. It looks like you have a top entrance and a vent hole that is screened, and then a little tiny hole at the bottome as well? Just wondered what that one is for.
F

[poka-bee]

Hmmm, how interesting. I had a thought..shhhh, don't tell anyone! They don't look all that hard to do..thinking ahead to next year. Not handy about building  but can Micky mouse...maneuvering a full size piece of plywood & power tools is too much of a challenge by myself BUT may be able to use regular supers, divide & just have to cut the pieces for the inner covers?  So you used the plastic stuff they make signs out of for dividers?  We will have tons free to choose from soon!!..will have to see how the new bees differ..red or blue!   Jody

[Brian D. Bray]

The only difference I would have made is the location of the entrances.  I would have one on each end and one on easch side so the queen could orientate on a single opening.  I did notice though that you put entrances on both ends so you can block or open a entrance depending on what you wanted to do.

[Robo]

The only difference I would have made is the location of the entrances.  I would have one on each end and one on easch side so the queen could orientate on a single opening.

The entrances are on each side and at the bottom.  The 2 center nucs enter on opposite sides and the outer 2 nucs enter on the other sides.  If you look close at the last picture you can see the center 2 entrances. The top holes are screened vent holes.  They do an amazing job of deceiving robbers,  which is a big problem here in the Fall after the flow.

Do you have an explanation of how you use those mating nucs on your site?

They are used just like any other mating nuc.  The cells are placed in the nuc a couple of days before hatching,  checked a few days after hatch date, and then in 2 weeks for mated queens.

So you used the plastic stuff they make signs out of for dividers?

yup, I use a lot of coroplast in my beekeeping.   Makes great starter strips too.
http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,16357.msg118739.html#msg118739

[BenC]

Aside from the fact that mine are green and blue, those look exactly like what I built.  Oh, I put cleat handles on the sides.  I used 3/16 masonite for the dividers.  Did you dado the dividers into the bottom as well or just into the sides?  I saw the picture in Brushy Mt and went from that with a few mods.  Was able to build four at the same price they want for one, and that was buying materials.  Of course free construction scraps would bring that price down even more but I've got that cut up for other equipment    I think for the next few I'll try building them to take med frames, should be big enough for mating nucs

[randydrivesabus]

i like those rob...you need to make the name Mating Manor your brand.

[Robo]

Did you dado the dividers into the bottom as well or just into the sides? 

No, the bottom is just a recessed piece of 1/4 luan.  Between the dadoes in the sides, the solidness of the indivdual tops,  and the corrugation in the coropast,  they stay pretty straight.

i like those rob...you need to make the name Mating Manor your brand.

Thanks Randy

[broke-t]

Robo,  How will you get feed to these bees if they need feeding?  I like the Idea of staying with standard frames for nucs.  Why did you go with this design instead of individual 2 to 5 frame nucs?

Johnny

[Robo]

Robo,  How will you get feed to these bees if they need feeding?

I have a few that I cut holes in the inner covers to fit mason jar lids with #8 hardware cloth on the bottom.  Then just put an empty deep on top.   If you do this,  put the feeder on the end of the inner cover, and away from the entrance hole.   But I usually just pour syrup into empty comb if they don't have enough stores.  I  start then with a frame of brood and a frame of honey and usually don't have to feed.

I like the Idea of staying with standard frames for nucs.  Why did you go with this design instead of individual 2 to 5 frame nucs?

Yes, standard frames are nice,  makes it easy to put them together in the spring and easy to put back into hives or nucs in the fall when done.

I do have a few double three frame nucs as well.  The quad 2 framers require less space and less "stuff"  to move around. The logistics just seem to be easier. You just have to watch the 2 framers a little closer and make sure they don't get too strong.

[steveouk]

great post gives me some excellent ideas for next season

[xC0000005]

I've been building with plastic signs for a while (for outside bodies as well) and not all signs are created equal.  For dividers I like the kind that have the cells running vertically.  Why?  use one for a while and then repeat the measurements.  If you cut carefully things will be fine.  If you use horizontal cels in a divider and don't trim carefully along the edges, you'll wind up with a partial cell.  Ok, so far, so good, right?  Fast forward a few months - those edges will fold down and your divider will be less tall than it was.  For standard height cells it's no big deal so long as only one edge is like that.

If you cut the sign using one with veritical cells (that's all the ones on wire H stands) they will not collapse downward.

Horizontal cells make much better side walls for nucs and cut right form a nice flap/lid.

Political Sign Nucs

Frankenhive sans skin

Now with signs added.

[Robo]

It is definitely a give and take when using coroplast.  The problem I have had with vertical cell dividers is that unless you put a dado in the floor, they will warp to one side and in some cases touch the adjacent frame and cut off access to the bees. If you do go with dados, you can forget about easily removing the dividers once the bee propolize them.   With horizontal cell dividers the dado is not needed to prevent warping.  I get around the half cell cuts by extending the divider past the tops (individual tops for each nuc).

Even though there are pitfalls with the coroplast that need to be designed around,  the price is right 

[purvisgs]

I have seen this thread pop up to the top of the list several times and I have wanted to jump in and post this link (but I was unable to find it), well finally, here it is: http://www.wiltshirebeekeepers.org.uk/Downloads/BeeLines%20April%202007.pdf
scroll down to page 7, you will see some pretty cool combined tbh mating nucs.  now these I would certainly call a mating manor!

robo- q's if I may: how do you like the ply inner covers as opposed to other options- how easy is it to inspect a "middle" colony?  very good idea it seems I tried using various "cloth"/ grain bag type inner covers stapled to dividers and didn't like result.  with this setup do you consider telescoping tops necessary or could a slightly larger (say 2" overhang) ply top, weighed down work?  is your (outer) top made of the luan ? or do you have bottoms on the boxes? can't see anywhere else it is used in your design.


what is it that makes one coroplast better than another? do you have a favorite?
(ie can't horizontal be turned 90 degrees to become "vertical coroplast"

thank you

[Robo]

I have seen this thread pop up to the top of the list several times and I have wanted to jump in and post this link (but I was unable to find it), well finally, here it is: http://www.wiltshirebeekeepers.org.uk/Downloads/BeeLines%20April%202007.pdf
scroll down to page 7, you will see some pretty cool combined tbh mating nucs.  now these I would certainly call a mating manor!

Very interesting.  Looks a bit complicated with all those internal hoses and such.  Looks like something from outer space with all those cans and soda bottles on it.
I did learn something though - use of Carniolan bees which are well known for their ability for precise orientation.  So I guess they are only good for rearing Carniolans

how do you like the ply inner covers as opposed to other options- how easy is it to inspect a "middle" colony?  very good idea it seems I tried using various "cloth"/ grain bag type inner covers stapled to dividers and didn't like result. 

I like them a lot,  They are rigid enough that they don't sag or warp. The middle ones easily pry up with the hive tool and all the propolis sticks to the wood and not the coroplast,  so once off, a quick scrap and they can go back on.  I tried coroplast covers, but they tend to warp and don't seal well with the outer cover removed,  so you get bees escaping from previous inspected units while your going through the adjacent units.   I used 3/4" ply scraps from building the boxes, thinner stuff would work equally as well.

with this setup do you consider telescoping tops necessary or could a slightly larger (say 2" overhang) ply top, weighed down work?

Telescoping cover are by no means necessary.  I've used sheets of coroplast with a overhang with to problem.

  is your (outer) top made of the luan ? or do you have bottoms on the boxes? can't see anywhere else it is used in your design.

Yes the top covers and bottoms are Luan.   

what is it that makes one coroplast better than another? do you have a favorite?

It all seems to be pretty much the same around here.  The FREE ones are my favorite   Especially the ones that only have printing on one side

(ie can't horizontal be turned 90 degrees to become "vertical coroplast"

Yes, but you must turn it BEFORE cutting it to size   (unless you are cutting squares,  but that doesn't seem to happen with Langstroth hives)

[Carriage House Farm]

Rob

I just picked up 4 of those a couple months back.  One was slightly used and the rest pretty clean.  Almost the same exact design.  I took a hole saw to the lids on each section to place a pint feeder jar.

I'll take a picture sometime soon.

[ronwhite3030]

how tall did you make them Robo?

[Robo]

how tall did you make them Robo?

10-1/8"

[ronwhite3030]

did you use 3/4" for the bottom as well?

[Robo]

Complete plans can be found here -> http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/downloads/

[VolunteerK9]

Hey Robo...havent seen you on here much, so I hope all is well. Just wanted to let you know that I just built the 4-way mating nuc and that all went together like a breeze. Thanks for the plans..So easy to follow that even I could do it.

[specialkayme]

Quick question on the materials. The plans you have on the site show how to make four of them out of one sheet of plywood. Those plans are VERY helpful by the way, thanks so much.

I must say that I don't know my plywood very well. I went to the store today to take a look, and I don't really know what the differences are. Can you tell me what materials would be better? I've read that OSB doesn't really hold up to weather very well, and plywood is a generic term. Any help?

[Michael Bush]

Plywood has designations for the quality of the surface (A, B, C and D) and the kind of glue (X is exterior).  So 3/4" CDX is one C surface, one D surface and exterior glue.  Unless you can find some Marine plywood, I'd use the CDX as it is commonly available for a decent price.

[Solomon Parker]

Thanks for this Robo.  I made ten 3x3's of very similar design.  They are currently deeps, but they are meant to be cut down to mediums eventually as I am switching over.

[Keeperwannabe]

Made some three by three's out of 1/2 inch cdx I had left over from a jobsite, no problems, it has so much internal parts that it withstood the weight well.

[samsungpizza]

What two frames go into each nuc? Both brood, open or capped, one brood and one honey? I'm new, so please tolerate my ignorance.
Thank you!

[backyard warrior]

one frame of brood one honey one pollen and if you wish more brood up to you but you dont want to crowd a nuc they will swarm.  Chris

[samsungpizza]

Room for only two frames. Capped brood or open? Thanks again.

[Robo]

Capped,  you want space to free up for the newly mated queen to lay.

[slacker361]

Dos anyone have the plans for these. I know that link has them but when ever I try and download it just gives me a bunch of charters and not a pdf file

[AllenF]

Send a message to Robo.   It did not work for me either.   Something with the site I would guess.

[Robo]

Site fixed.  Upgrade gone bad.....

[RobWok]

Thanks so much for putting this out there.  I love it.  Instead of plywood, I had some pallets that had boards on top that were 10.5" wide  Was able to use a few of those and built 5 of these.  Instead of the extra pieces that you put inside, I instead cut a 1/4" dado on the inside before I assembled the boxes.  What this means is that it is exactly the same size inside and out as a standard deep.  I'll be affixing basically an inner cover that is flush on one side on the bottom.  My goal was to see if I could build your setup with a standard deep box and just modify it a little.  That way, anyone should be able to order a deep box and cut some rabbets and some holes in it.  I also made the frame rests the 13/16" like you have in your plans.  It should have minimal effect on a normal frame. I always seem to run out of deep hive bodies.  This way, I can have some spares if I need them.

Here's the other plus.  I plan to take out 2 of the sides and just leave the center divider in for the winter - meaning, I can try to overwinter 2 hives that share the same deep box.  I'm trying to figure out the best way to stack them too.  That could get a little tricky.  May still need to put 2 5 frame nucs on top to super them.  Probably just better to make more solid nucs, or order them.

Anyway, thanks for the plans!