Need Bees Removed?
International
Beekeeping Forums
April 19, 2014, 07:30:34 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News: Beemaster's official FACEBOOK page
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar bee removal Login Register Chat  

Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: So You Want To Cut A Box Joint!  (Read 27759 times)
Robo
Technical
Administrator
Galactic Bee
*******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6347


Location: Scenic Catskill Mountains - NY

Beekeep On!


WWW
« Reply #20 on: July 03, 2008, 08:47:34 AM »

There is an adjustable key that the previous cut rides on.  It takes some adjusting at first, but once you get it adjusted and locked your good to go.   I don't use it anymore as I've found the half-blind dovetails with the router and jig are much quicker.  I can do one joint (ends of both boards) in one pass.
Logged

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison


SgtMaj
Queen Bee
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1464


Location: Corryton, TN


« Reply #21 on: July 03, 2008, 11:16:45 AM »

If you added on to the jig in the picture, you could theoretically do 10 or 20 per pass, or however many your table would support on the front end of the saw.
Logged
Jerrymac
Galactic Bee
******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6047


Location: Wolfforth Texas


« Reply #22 on: July 03, 2008, 01:22:37 PM »

SgtMaj  is right. Didn't there use to be pictures at the beginning of this?
Logged

rainbow sunflower  Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.   rainbow sunflower

 Jerry

My pictures.Type in password;  youview
     http://photobucket.com/albums/v225/Jerry-mac/
danno
Super Bee
*****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 2164


Location: Ludington, Michigan


« Reply #23 on: July 03, 2008, 02:37:04 PM »

I tried doing 5  at a time and they werent perfect. Everything has to be rock solid which most crosscut guides are not.  I went back to one at a time
« Last Edit: July 07, 2008, 07:48:56 AM by danno » Logged
SgtMaj
Queen Bee
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1464


Location: Corryton, TN


« Reply #24 on: July 05, 2008, 11:12:34 PM »

Well I created a schematic for a table saw box joint jig that seems like it would be cheaper and easier to build and use than any of these others that are selling the plans to them.  I was going to upload it, but photobucket keeps failing to upload it, and websense won't let me upload it directly to the forum... so you're out of luck at least until I make it and take some pics.  I think I'll make it tomorrow, if not Monday at the latest.
Logged
Robo
Technical
Administrator
Galactic Bee
*******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6347


Location: Scenic Catskill Mountains - NY

Beekeep On!


WWW
« Reply #25 on: July 06, 2008, 07:31:21 AM »

  I was going to upload it, but photobucket keeps failing to upload it, and websense won't let me upload it directly to the forum...


What is the format?   Try ImageShack -> http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,6691.0.html
Logged

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison


SgtMaj
Queen Bee
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1464


Location: Corryton, TN


« Reply #26 on: July 06, 2008, 01:28:21 PM »

Jpg, just like all the other's I've uploaded in the past.  I suspect it was the computer I was using.
Logged
Misko
New Bee
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 41


Location: Slovenia


« Reply #27 on: July 06, 2008, 01:37:32 PM »

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=jigs&file=articles_436.shtml
http://www.sawdustmaking.com/Box%20Joint/boxjointjig.html
Logged

Sory for my bad english.
SgtMaj
Queen Bee
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1464


Location: Corryton, TN


« Reply #28 on: July 06, 2008, 06:13:01 PM »

I'm having a problem understanding something here...

The dadant mediums are 6 and 5/8ths inches deep... so my problem is this, the largest size dado that will divide that size up evenly, is 1.8th inch.  But that would require 53 cuts per joint.  That just seems insane to me.  You suggest using a 3/4 inch dado, but that leaves an extra bit on either end of the joint... how do you deal with that? 
Logged
Robo
Technical
Administrator
Galactic Bee
*******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6347


Location: Scenic Catskill Mountains - NY

Beekeep On!


WWW
« Reply #29 on: July 06, 2008, 06:22:28 PM »

The top one is 5/8"  and not full depth because of the frame rest.  The 6 of them at 7/8" and the bottom one is 3/4".
Logged

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison


SgtMaj
Queen Bee
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1464


Location: Corryton, TN


« Reply #30 on: July 06, 2008, 07:50:59 PM »

Well if you're going to make the one 5/8ths... 6" is evenly divisible by 3/4"...
Logged
Robo
Technical
Administrator
Galactic Bee
*******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6347


Location: Scenic Catskill Mountains - NY

Beekeep On!


WWW
« Reply #31 on: July 06, 2008, 09:23:20 PM »

Well if you're going to make the one 5/8ths... 6" is evenly divisible by 3/4"...

Then you'll have an odd number of joints, but hey if it works for you go for it.
Logged

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison


SgtMaj
Queen Bee
****
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 1464


Location: Corryton, TN


« Reply #32 on: July 06, 2008, 09:55:46 PM »

Well, my one problem with doing it the other way, is that most dado's I see only go up to 13/16ths, so they won't cut a 7/8th's.

Here are some pictures of the box joint jig, it's basically complete, but before I could make the dado blade cut to measure out the block, I found out that the dado blade I bought won't fit my table saw, so I'll have to exchange it tomorrow.  So anyway, here it is basically ready to go.  You can see the board that clamps down on the piece being cut, on the other side there's some wingnuts I just have to turn each of the 4 twice and it locks in the pieces so tight a sledge hammer couldn't budge them.  Also, there's enough room up front to cut two at once.  (the board that's in there now, is just a test piece of wood by the way)



Here's the best part of my setup... I put these railings on the bottom to fit into the mitre slots on the table, so they let me slide it forward and back without ever having to worry about getting a diagonal cut like you do if you're just holding to the mitre thing. 

Logged
Robo
Technical
Administrator
Galactic Bee
*******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6347


Location: Scenic Catskill Mountains - NY

Beekeep On!


WWW
« Reply #33 on: July 06, 2008, 10:47:56 PM »

Well, my one problem with doing it the other way, is that most dado's I see only go up to 13/16ths, so they won't cut a 7/8th's.


The Freud 8" goes up to 7/8th with the shims.

Quote
You can see the board that clamps down on the piece being cut, on the other side there's some wingnuts I just have to turn each of the 4 twice and it locks in the pieces so tight a sledge hammer couldn't budge them.  Also, there's enough room up front to cut two at once.  (the board that's in there now, is just a test piece of wood by the way)


That will surely hold it, but I think it will be a pain in the butt and very time consuming.  Even if you go for 7 dadoes and can do 2 boards at a time,  your looking at 56 wing nuts per box shocked

Quote
Here's the best part of my setup... I put these railings on the bottom to fit into the mitre slots on the table, so they let me slide it forward and back without ever having to worry about getting a diagonal cut like you do if you're just holding to the mitre thing. 


All the jigs I have seen use this method,  it works well as long as your mitre slots are true.

I can't tell by the photos, but I assume the pin is changeable for different size dadoes?  Do you have any micro adjustment of the pin?

Here are some photos of mine. (Had to blow the dust off of it since I don't remember the last time I used it grin)

Front side with replaceable backing insert



Micro adjustment of pin


Pins for different sized dadoes



I don't use mine anymore because I've found that the locking mitre holds up better as there is no end grains exposed and is less time consuming to do.


And the half blind dove tail holds up just as good as is super quick to do (only 4 passes per box) grin

Logged

"Opportunity is missed by most people because it comes dressed in overalls and looks like work." - Thomas Edison


shakd
New Bee
*
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 6

Location: Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #34 on: October 18, 2010, 03:09:55 PM »

This is an awesome Thread! Never created a Box Joint before! But if I did, this def. helps! Kudo's!

Logged
Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Beemaster's Beekeeping Ring
Previous | Home | Join | Random | Next
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.19 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines | Sitemap Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.176 seconds with 22 queries.

Google visited last this page April 15, 2014, 01:58:41 AM