Need Bees Removed?
International
Beekeeping Forums
July 31, 2014, 04:22:54 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
News: 24/7 Ventrilo Voice chat -click for instructions and free software here
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar bee removal Login Register Chat  

Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Box Construction Question  (Read 2206 times)
Pond Creek Farm
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 566


Location: Republic, MO


« on: April 11, 2008, 09:10:00 PM »

Hi all.  My sons and I are putting together some boxes and frames tomorrow.  My question surrounds the nails.  I would like to use 1.75 inch brads from our pneumatic brad nailer along with glue.  I do not have a finish or framing nailer.  Will this work or should I use bigger nails?  What about screws with glue?  The boxes did not come with nails, so I'll need to go to the hardware store tomorrow and pick out the fasteners.  Thanks for any help you all can offer.
Logged

Brian
jimmyo
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 161


Location: Indiana, USA


« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2008, 09:18:19 PM »

I think they normally come with 2 inch nails.  I use deck screws and Gorilla Glue on my boxes. 
Jim
Logged
rast
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 553

Location: Mascotte, Fl.


« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2008, 09:54:50 PM »

 I also use deck screws, but use liquid nails on the boxes. But, I use a rabbit joint and not a box joint. I would use gorilla on a box joint. Would still use screws and not nails, the holding power of a nail is in its length. Longer is stronger.
Logged

Fools argue; wise men discuss.
    --Paramahansa Yogananda
CBEE
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 343

Location: Northern Kentucky


« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2008, 07:59:16 AM »

The brads will work fine if using a good glue along with them. I am partial to the deck screws myself also.
Logged
malabarchillin
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 191

Location: East Coast Central Fla.


« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2008, 09:21:27 AM »

I am always a big fan of deck screws for things that will eventually be disassembled, but I use Titebond3 (waterproof) and nails for my box joints. It is my hope that the glue will be what holds them together, but at the end of the life of the box I am not sure. If you look at the cross section of a screw and a nail they are quite different. In this application the nails are mostly in shear and IMO they will be there after the screws are gone. I may be wrong. Just my opinion. Again I think the glue is the key and the screws are 'clamps' until the glue dries. I do use air-brads during glue-up for temp hold while I use a framing square to get everything square then add nails. Everything but glue may be overkill, but do not want hidden rot to dump a box of bees on my feet in 10 years. For a hobby guy why not overkill a little (Xtra time and material costs are irrelevant). Commercial is different.
Logged
Joseph Clemens
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 382


Location: Tucson, Arizona U S A


WWW
« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2008, 12:52:00 PM »

I once used nails. Then I used glue and nails. It was annoying how the nails would creep out of the wood - the nail heads would frequently demonstrate their hazardous nature by catching on things. This happened despite the use of glue. For several years now, and presently, I use epoxy coated deck screws. The screws, with or without added glue, have held things together well - without becoming unsightly or developing a hazardous nature.
Logged


<img src="[url]http://banners.wunderground.com/weathersticker/miniWeather06_both/language/www/US/AZ/Marana.gif
" border=0
alt="Click for Marana, Arizona Forecast" height=50 width=150>[/url]
Joseph Clemens
Beekeeping since 1964
10+ years in Tucson, Arizona
12+ hives and 15+ nucs
No chemicals -- no treatments of any kind, EVER.
rast
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 553

Location: Mascotte, Fl.


« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2008, 03:02:37 PM »

 I also haven't yet thrown a screwdriver and grabbed my thumb as has happened with a hammer. shocked
Logged

Fools argue; wise men discuss.
    --Paramahansa Yogananda
Ross
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 512

Location: Greenville, TX


WWW
« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2008, 05:14:28 PM »

I shoot 2.5" finish nails.  The gun recesses them slightly in the wood.  I've never seen one back out, in fact I have to push them through if I need to remove one.  I use Titebond II still.
Logged

www.myoldtools.com
Those who don't read good books have no advantage over those who can't---Mark Twain
rdy-b
Super Bee
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2210


Location: clayton ca


« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2008, 07:37:18 PM »

MY vote is for a six penny nail in the fingers but in the two that go through the rabbet you got to use a five penny or you will split the rabbet  cool WORKS FOR ME  RDY-B
Logged
Michael Bush
Universal Bee
*******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 13588


Location: Nehawka, NE


WWW
« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2008, 09:07:52 PM »

Since I got a stapler I've been using 1.5" long 1/4" crown staples and they work fine.  The 1.25" are not long enough.
Logged

Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
-------------------
"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
steveouk
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 206


Location: Colbert, Oklahoma

A Brit living in the USA


WWW
« Reply #10 on: April 12, 2008, 09:12:48 PM »

does anyone do box joints to make there own deeps and suppers, i want to get a router but was wondering about a template for the box joints
Logged

Pond Creek Farm
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 566


Location: Republic, MO


« Reply #11 on: April 12, 2008, 10:06:47 PM »

Well we built them.  I used the screws in the deeps and nails in the mediums.  Glue with each, but the Gorilla Glue seems quite a mess.  My vote is for the nails.  My joints were tighter and the boxes square.  The screws (even with a larger pilot hole) split more and all in all were more trouble. 
Logged

Brian
my-smokepole
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 82

Location: Toledo,Ohio


« Reply #12 on: April 13, 2008, 08:22:16 AM »

Personel feeling on Gorilla Glue is that I wish it was NEVER made. So far I have never found a project that was worth the mess that it makes. So I will keep my Titebond lll. Or if I have a major exterior Inportant peice to glue that is exterior West fiberglass resion. For boat building. For bee boxes it would be over kill. But for the front door of my home or something like that That is ment to last a 100 years why not.
My-smokepoles
 
Logged

My-smokepole
Michael Bush
Universal Bee
*******
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 13588


Location: Nehawka, NE


WWW
« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2008, 09:42:51 AM »

I've never used the gorrila glue, but I'm pretty happy with the exterior titebond or elmers carpenter glue.
Logged

Michael Bush
My website:  bushfarms.com/bees.htm
My book:  ThePracticalBeekeeper.com
-------------------
"Everything works if you let it."--Rick Nielsen
mgates61
House Bee
**
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 137


Location: stone county , Arkansas

Trucker by trade...Beekeeper by choice !!!


WWW
« Reply #14 on: April 13, 2008, 10:16:59 PM »

steveouk ,

No need for a router to do box joints, BUT, Don't tell the wife.........LOL.

Go to www.beesource .com for a set of plans for a box joint jig.  Table saw only.



Mike
Logged

<img src="http://banners.wunderground.com/weathersticker/miniStates_both/language/www/US/AR/Drasco.gif" border=0
alt="Click for Drasco, Arkansas Forecast" height=100 width=150>
Pond Creek Farm
Field Bee
***
Offline Offline

Gender: Male
Posts: 566


Location: Republic, MO


« Reply #15 on: April 13, 2008, 10:34:55 PM »

I suppose that Gorilla Glue is like anything else:  you have to use it right to get good results.  I did not.  I am confident that I have a good bond, but I also have extruded glue that makes the hive look terrible.  (As a hobbiest, I still worry about that sort of thing).  It takes very little glue, and really I think it would need to be put on with a brush to evenly distribute the material.  It expands to 3x 4x its original voulume during its cure, and this is the reason for it coming out of the joints and looking unsightly.  I have experience with wood glue, and I thing that such a product along with nails (or staples) will work fine.  IN the future, that is what I will use.
Logged

Brian
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Beemaster's Beekeeping Ring
Previous | Home | Join | Random | Next
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.19 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines | Sitemap Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.396 seconds with 21 queries.

Google visited last this page July 24, 2014, 12:51:04 PM
anything