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Author Topic: trying to learn about ventilation  (Read 3694 times)
Robo
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« Reply #20 on: July 19, 2007, 10:45:05 AM »

Robo, right, I remember you speaking about using the night lite in your colonies for warmth and earlier spring build up.  But, I am curious here.  How do you get the nite lights in each hive?  Do you have cords for each nite lite that attach to something like a power bar with multiple plugs in it?  Define this for us.  Have a wonderful day, great life.  Cindi
Hi Cindi,

I've done it multiple ways depending on how the hives are set up.   I've done it from as simple as sliding the bulb/cord in from the front entrance,  placing them between the screen and cover  in the SBB, to building bottom boards with means to install the night lights.  On my TBHs I just drilled holes in the side and mounted the lights in 1" PVC pipe that I slid into the holes.  I use 2 bulbs per hive which gives 14W and provides a little redundancy when one bulb burns out. Initially I used 2 cords per hive, but now just buy sockets that clip onto the cord, so I get both bulbs on 1 cord.  When I get a chance, I'll try to take some pictures for you.
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KONASDAD
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« Reply #21 on: July 19, 2007, 11:18:06 AM »

I am still having a problem grasping the concept of the slatted bottomboard and how it works.  I understand the principle, but go a little deeper for me please.  I realize the dowels run the length of the hive.  But, I think where I am getting hung up, is how are the frames positioned above the dowels?  Can this be elaborated on?  Have a wonderful day, great life.  Cindi

Lokk at betterbees web site. Theres run parallell to frames of brod area which is preferable. Will try Bray method w/ round dowels this winter as I expand my apiary skills to carpentry too!
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Brian D. Bray
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« Reply #22 on: July 20, 2007, 10:28:19 PM »

The Slatted Racks from Betterbee are the best currently available from a comercial outlet, however, they leave a bit to be desired.  The only good thing, compared to other slatted racks, is that the slats run the same direction as the frames.  The Betterbee rack forces the bees to festoon under the slats so they are unable to effectively use it as a working platform.  The racks I designed can be built with dowling or 1X1 that are actually 3/4X3/4 inches.

Make a shim 1 1/2 inches deep.  Run the 1 inch dowling or the 1X1 trim  the same direction as the frames. 1X2's (3/4X1 1/2) will work also.  I plan out the position of the slats by measuring in 1/2 inch from each side of the end of the shim and then use an end bar from a frame for marking.  Using the end bar gives proper spacing so the slat is directly under the frame and the eyelet in the end bar also allows the nail (screw) placement by using a ice pick or nail punch.

Mine allow the bees to use the rack with feet planted which enables them to not only use the area for expansion room due to heat or over crowding but as a working platform for ventilation or evaporation.
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KONASDAD
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« Reply #23 on: July 20, 2007, 10:41:28 PM »

The Slatted Racks from Betterbee are the best currently available from a comercial outlet, however, they leave a bit to be desired.  The only good thing, compared to other slatted racks, is that the slats run the same direction as the frames.  The Betterbee rack forces the bees to festoon under the slats so they are unable to effectively use it as a working platform.  The racks I designed can be built with dowling or 1X1 that are actually 3/4X3/4 inches.

Make a shim 1 1/2 inches deep.  Run the 1 inch dowling or the 1X1 trim  the same direction as the frames. 1X2's (3/4X1 1/2) will work also.  I plan out the position of the slats by measuring in 1/2 inch from each side of the end of the shim and then use an end bar from a frame for marking.  Using the end bar gives proper spacing so the slat is directly under the frame and the eyelet in the end bar also allows the nail (screw) placement by using a ice pick or nail punch.

Mine allow the bees to use the rack with feet planted which enables them to not only use the area for expansion room due to heat or over crowding but as a working platform for ventilation or evaporation.
  Do you measure in 1/2 inch from side, then use end bar for spacing, or the 1/2 inch is a guide then you use the end bar? I alwaysd wondered how you easily spaced your dowels, now I need to understand the directions!!!thanx of course
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Brian D. Bray
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« Reply #24 on: July 20, 2007, 11:16:10 PM »

In the normal use of boxes there is 1/2 inch on each side of the frames designed to be used for frame manipulation.  Measure in the 1/2 inch and then use the end bars to properly space the dowling.
If you want to more about the DuBray Slatted Rack PM Zoot, he's been using his for a year now.
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« Reply #25 on: July 22, 2007, 10:30:47 AM »

Brian, thank you for taking the time to explain in-depth.  I am giving the instructions to my husband, as I can make no heads or tails from design instructions.  I know that he will figure it out beautifully and I will soon have slatted bottomboards to assist my colonies.   Beautiful knowledge we gain.  Always, a wonderful day.  Cindi
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