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91
Did you do a mite count of some sort that indicates you need to treat? Throwing chemicals at the hive just because you have them or can isn't always the best course of action :-)
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NATURAL & ORGANIC BEEKEEPING METHODS / Re: opinions on treatment free beekieeping
« Last post by sawdstmakr on August 30, 2015, 08:13:38 AM »
Eric,
Considering the average bees life span is 6 weeks, I suspect most of it is instinct. They have to learn their territory but most of what know on how to bo their job is instinct.
In nature, the more a species depends on learning how to live, the longer the child rearing time.
Jim
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Honey that won't crystalize
« Last post by monarchis on August 30, 2015, 07:03:47 AM »
In Greece the main honey (over 60% of the produce every year) is from pine and crystallize after 2-3 years. We have also honey from thymus vulgaris that crystallize after 6months or after a year.
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Honey that won't crystalize
« Last post by Dave86 on August 30, 2015, 06:18:58 AM »


We have honey in Australia that you have to extract and drum up with in hours as it crystallises within a couple of days.

Yapunyah tree honey it is
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HONEYBEE REMOVAL / Our latest removals
« Last post by afuturewithbees_com on August 30, 2015, 03:56:51 AM »
Check out our latest removals....

http://www.afuturewithbees.com/springfield-mo-swarms-and-removals/bee-removals-springfield-mo

#savethebees  #afuturewithbees #bees
96
You can use formic acid with the supers on. Mite away quick strips. Will kill mites in the brood cells also. Instructions say lay two strips across the frames for seven days. I compromise by using one strip for 7 days, then second for another 7 days. I think queens tolerate it better that way. Probably should be hesitant if temps are going to be over 85.
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Weighed My Hive. On Track 4 Winter?
« Last post by MT Bee Girl on August 29, 2015, 10:32:16 PM »
Today I weighed my hive. I wanted to switch out my SBB for a solid one anyway, so I weighed each component/box on my bathroom scale as I lifted them off. The whole thing weighed about 124 lbs. Before I put the bees in the hive I weighed it, and the whole thing (1 deep and 2 mediums, including 8 foundationless frames in each, bottom board and lids) weighed 35 lbs. Each additional medium super with FL frames weighs 9 lbs. So I figure about 44 lbs for the equipment, since I have a 4th medium on which contains honey. That one alone weighs 38 pounds. So 124-44=80 lbs. 38 lbs of which are honey plus the rest is the weight of the bood, comb, pollen, and honey in the brood boxes. As it stands, are they on a good track to have enough food for winter? Might there be enough that I could take a frame or two from the super? I'm told our bees need 60 lbs for the winter.

Also I have some apiguard but hear you can't put that on with honey on the hive. You also can't feed them while treating and the whole thing takes a month. What could I do with my honey super while treating? Freeze it and then put it back on after? Should I feed again then afterward, end of September? Do I need to feed with how things look? Is there some other alternative to apiguard? Could I just feed some wintergreen and white thyme in syrup like the fat beeman says? I know it's better not to treat but these are not from treatment free stock and I'm afraid they'll parrish, which I know is ok too but I just don't want mIne to parrish, iykwim.  :wink:
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GSF I do not know how much is genetic instinct and how much is learned behavior. Good question I would love to know.
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NATURAL & ORGANIC BEEKEEPING METHODS / Re: Why not try small cell?
« Last post by Eric Bosworth on August 29, 2015, 09:28:43 PM »
I don't think I would cull out any. Natural selection will take care of that over winter on its own. But I do agree with the premise.
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