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 81 
 on: August 01, 2014, 05:46:53 AM 
Started by Willow - Last post by Modenacart
I don't recommend nucs for a new beekeeper unless they bring someone with them that know what they are doing to inspect them.  Nucs can come with very big problems.  Packages don't seem to be as bad.

 82 
 on: August 01, 2014, 05:28:21 AM 
Started by colbees - Last post by Modenacart
$10 a pint in our are and most people sell out.

 83 
 on: August 01, 2014, 03:39:46 AM 
Started by Better.to.Bee.than.not - Last post by Lone
I've had a request to put a hive or two at an orchard, very convenient for us, on the outskirts of town. It's mainly mandarins, grapes, tomatoes, pumpkins. I went today and asked about sprays.  They use lannate-L and dimethoate, both on the highly toxic list, as well as copper and sulphur.  They said that they need to spray when flowering at times, but spray only late afternoon.  I see on the information sheet about lannate that it recommends for bees not spraying 10 days before flowering and until the flowers die. I'm very reluctant to place hives there.  We do have a couple of hives at a market garden and I think he may also spray with lannate, so I need to find out more about when he sprays also.  Has anyone had experience and success with combining bees and orchards and can advise on what I should do?  I don't like the idea of poisons in the hive, but as both places are in town, it's hard to avoid pesticides.  There is not much flowering at home in the bush at the moment, but at least I know it's almost certainly clear of poisons.

Lone

 84 
 on: August 01, 2014, 02:10:22 AM 
Started by iddee - Last post by BlueBee
Did I miss some data in history class huh

Which of our 50 States is Israel again?

 85 
 on: August 01, 2014, 01:34:40 AM 
Started by Hops Brewster - Last post by sc-bee
A can of tuna with a little frontline will also do the job. They take it back to the nest.

Here is an old post:
Before I became a Beekeeper this year I waged all out war on Yellow Jackets. I had several underground nests in my yard. I read a researcher in CA found that Frontline dog & cat flea killer (1-2 drops to a can of cat food or tuna) will kill the nest by the foragers taking baited meat back to the nest where they feed the brood. I tried the method a year & half ago and I have not had a yellow Jacket problem since. I would only do this towards the middle or end of summer because thats when the YJ's are searching for meat more than sweets. To keep local pets and critters from getting the baited meat I placed the can in a birdgage to allow the YJ's in and out.
I tried the store bought traps and they captured a lot of yellows jackets but just like honeybees the YJ's kept putting out new foragers. Hope it helps

 86 
 on: July 31, 2014, 11:23:08 PM 
Started by NotactJack - Last post by alfred
In mine the bottom box just sits on the screen. It doesn't get stuck any more than the boxes get stuck together. Hive tool separates them easily.

 87 
 on: July 31, 2014, 11:14:06 PM 
Started by Brother Dave - Last post by OldMech
Good Link, but I have a hard time believing there are 300 bees in that little jelly jar, otherwise not a bad method..   I would also recommend treatment at anything over about 6 mites per 300 bees as opposed to ;

The threshold in New Zealand is 40 mites per three hundred bees, the book also states that this threshold may need to adjusted when Deformed Wing Virus is more widespread in New Zealand.

   40?   shocked   

 88 
 on: July 31, 2014, 11:09:08 PM 
Started by Glen H - Last post by OldMech
Interesting Idea there.  Interested to know how well it works.. I would think the cool air pumping through the smoker would crystalize the vapor too soon, but the proof is in the pudding!!   Let us know if it works!!!

 89 
 on: July 31, 2014, 11:06:27 PM 
Started by Frank - Last post by OldMech
With cut outs, putting the queen in a clip or queen cage for a few days helps. They will begin caring for the brood you rubber banded into the hive. Using a queen excluder on the bottom as a queen "includer" may also help for the first week or two after you release the queen. That way she will start laying and more or less lock the bees into staying.  if she gets vacced, you can still go in and find her to put her in the clip/cage. You already said you were feeding so not much else I can add there.

   On a trap out, they need EGGS on the frame you add to the trap out box. Larvae will be too old for them to make a queen by the time they decide they need to do something. Once they get queen cells going they don't often abscond, the box becomes their home.
   If you fill the box and replace it with another one, they will need another frame with eggs on it. I have also heard about good success using a queen right trap out box, but have not tried that yet.

 90 
 on: July 31, 2014, 11:05:45 PM 
Started by iddee - Last post by hjon71
Your Southern Democratic background is shinning again cheesy

Because I despise both parties?
Because I can see the similarities between them despite the talking point differences?
Sure you can.
 tongue

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