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81
Trapping seems easy *but* the management I have read says to trap for a few days then stop. The front mounted traps look like they could be modified so that some of the trapped pollen ends up on the wrong side of the trap screen so the bees always get some. Or have a few of the #5 mesh holes enlarged to allow for easier passage depending on where the bee lands.
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: banning beehives in our township
« Last post by jayj200 on July 26, 2015, 02:39:20 PM »
If they ban one form of livestock, will they ban others?
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>I can get Buckfast queens shipped from Denmark (via Canada) August 10th. 

Not legally as far as I can tell...  The USDA has to jump through hoops to get SEMEN imported from Europe and is not allowed to bring in queens...
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I don't understand the "twist or turn the comb" part.  Don't worry about it.  If the bees have the right aged larvae and they need a queen they will raise one.  If they don't raise one either they have enough laying workers to convince them they have a queen, or they have a virgin running around who isn't laying yet.  If you give them a frame of open brood every week for three weeks you will resolve the problem.

http://www.bushfarms.com/beespanacea.htm
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MEMBER'S WEBPAGES, BLOGS & FORUMS / Re: Stings
« Last post by Michael Bush on July 26, 2015, 01:37:31 PM »
That's why I posted this:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesmisc.htm#plantain

The bananas don't work so well...
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Generally for frames I use 1".  For boxes I use 1 1/2" (if my gun would take longer I would use those).  I always have some 1 1/4" around for nailing a one by into a one by without it sticking out the other side.  I have some 5/8" for putting screens on etc.
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This is the nearest thing to her book:
http://www.beesource.com/point-of-view/ed-dee-lusby/

You can find her on this group on Yahoo and ask her:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Organicbeekeepers

The problem with saying what size cells the bees make is that they make a wide variety and some are just for different purposes.  Worker brood, drone brood, honey storage.  The core of the brood nest is smaller than the outer edges.  They are all different kinds of comb and are different sizes.  So do you average them all?  Do you just go for the core and call that worker size?  Do you average the almost worker size honey storage in with the workers?  Then you have the whole regression issue where bees that have been raised on enlarged cells don't build as small as natural sized bees.

As far as the historical record Saucy picks what he wants and ignores all the most common references.  By far the most common recorded and reported cell size for the last five hundred years or so is five cells within an inch, which if it is exactly five cells to an inch (and not just "within an inch") that would be 5.08mm.  It shows up over and over in account after account.  I have an original Huber's New Observations on Bees in French with the original plates with a plate (VII A) that Huber says is "natural size".  It measures 4.0mm on center.  So I seriously doubt it was ever any larger than 5.08mm...
88
REQUEENING & RAISING NEW QUEENS / Re: Attempt at letting them create a new queen
« Last post by Colobee on July 26, 2015, 12:54:07 PM »
The "queenless roar" is much more obvious to me with a large colony that is  queenless. That means there are no longer any larvae less than three days old, and they have very little chance of rearing a queen without some intervention on my part. If there is any possibility that they can rear a queen, or are doing so, the queenless roar might not be heard. If they are busy with a strong flow, they might also be a bit distracted. I had a small late swarm acting that way - no queen, & no possibility, so they were just packing in honey.
 
I have one new queen unit where they rejected her & started their own cells. They are in an 8 frame medium box. There is a slight "queenless buzz" but the most obvious thing is their more agitated state.
 
I've had a couple small nucs  rear nice mated queens this year. I started them with  4-5 medium frames, total. Some were from from a failed package, and a single frame of eggs from a good queenrite hive. I made up two "5 frame nucs". It was "swarm season", so there were plenty of drones around. Everything went like clockwork, and both are now filling a second 5 frame box, and providing donor brood for other needs.
 
Another package that failed has repeated refused to accept frames of eggs & young larvae, or the odd frame of brood with capped queens cells that I've come across. It seems no matter what I've tried, short of combining them with a strong hive, has worked.
 
All we can do is keep trying, and realize that sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't.
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Question about fermentation
« Last post by Michael Bush on July 26, 2015, 12:32:40 PM »
I never make 1:1 because it ferments too fast.  I never make less than 5:3.  The bees don't care, they actually have to work less if it's stronger.  I throw it out if it smells bad.
90
I think the most important point is that there WILL be bees in the residential areas.  Those bees may be in the trees or they may be in peoples hives.  They are much easier to manage in peoples hives.  They are usually much LESS of a nuisance than a dog and most neighbors will never notice.
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