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 71 
 on: August 01, 2014, 08:21:13 AM 
Started by Tricky - Last post by jayj200
orally taken three times an hour
now I have this bridge

 72 
 on: August 01, 2014, 08:16:38 AM 
Started by iddee - Last post by tefer2
 applause

 73 
 on: August 01, 2014, 07:59:34 AM 
Started by Willow - Last post by kingd
My start up costs this year are around $800., Mainly because I kept coming across deals I could not pass up.

  I have 6 hives running now will actually have some honey this year.

 74 
 on: August 01, 2014, 07:53:04 AM 
Started by Frank - Last post by Frank
On the trap outs we wait a day or two to make sure the cone isn't leaking and the bees are interested in the box, then we slip comb in with eggs and larva. 

 75 
 on: August 01, 2014, 05:46:53 AM 
Started by Willow - Last post by Modenacart
I don't recommend nucs for a new beekeeper unless they bring someone with them that know what they are doing to inspect them.  Nucs can come with very big problems.  Packages don't seem to be as bad.

 76 
 on: August 01, 2014, 05:28:21 AM 
Started by colbees - Last post by Modenacart
$10 a pint in our are and most people sell out.

 77 
 on: August 01, 2014, 03:39:46 AM 
Started by Better.to.Bee.than.not - Last post by Lone
I've had a request to put a hive or two at an orchard, very convenient for us, on the outskirts of town. It's mainly mandarins, grapes, tomatoes, pumpkins. I went today and asked about sprays.  They use lannate-L and dimethoate, both on the highly toxic list, as well as copper and sulphur.  They said that they need to spray when flowering at times, but spray only late afternoon.  I see on the information sheet about lannate that it recommends for bees not spraying 10 days before flowering and until the flowers die. I'm very reluctant to place hives there.  We do have a couple of hives at a market garden and I think he may also spray with lannate, so I need to find out more about when he sprays also.  Has anyone had experience and success with combining bees and orchards and can advise on what I should do?  I don't like the idea of poisons in the hive, but as both places are in town, it's hard to avoid pesticides.  There is not much flowering at home in the bush at the moment, but at least I know it's almost certainly clear of poisons.

Lone

 78 
 on: August 01, 2014, 02:10:22 AM 
Started by iddee - Last post by BlueBee
Did I miss some data in history class huh

Which of our 50 States is Israel again?

 79 
 on: August 01, 2014, 01:34:40 AM 
Started by Hops Brewster - Last post by sc-bee
A can of tuna with a little frontline will also do the job. They take it back to the nest.

Here is an old post:
Before I became a Beekeeper this year I waged all out war on Yellow Jackets. I had several underground nests in my yard. I read a researcher in CA found that Frontline dog & cat flea killer (1-2 drops to a can of cat food or tuna) will kill the nest by the foragers taking baited meat back to the nest where they feed the brood. I tried the method a year & half ago and I have not had a yellow Jacket problem since. I would only do this towards the middle or end of summer because thats when the YJ's are searching for meat more than sweets. To keep local pets and critters from getting the baited meat I placed the can in a birdgage to allow the YJ's in and out.
I tried the store bought traps and they captured a lot of yellows jackets but just like honeybees the YJ's kept putting out new foragers. Hope it helps

 80 
 on: July 31, 2014, 11:23:08 PM 
Started by NotactJack - Last post by alfred
In mine the bottom box just sits on the screen. It doesn't get stuck any more than the boxes get stuck together. Hive tool separates them easily.

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