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41
GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Silly SHB
« Last post by KeyLargoBees on July 03, 2015, 09:08:33 AM »
Anybrew .... I am a home brewer sitting 15 feet from my kegerator so there was definitely beer involved :-)
42
REQUEENING & RAISING NEW QUEENS / Re: Using the Cupkit system ...
« Last post by Colobee on July 03, 2015, 08:57:06 AM »
Read up on the Hopkins Method?  :smile:
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Annual honey extraction....
« Last post by Colobee on July 03, 2015, 08:47:36 AM »
Amen, brother - I have extracting frames that are almost 40 years old.   :wink:
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GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Annual honey extraction....
« Last post by chux on July 03, 2015, 08:20:00 AM »
I'm not sure how much honey is sacrificed per pound of wax. I do know that there is a sacrifice, though. The bees burn through nectar that would have gone into honey stores, in the manufacture of comb. This is a fact. And yes, Eric, you certainly can throw that frame back on, after you cut out all the comb. I use foundationless frames. If my girls finish capping a frame in the first week of June, and I harvest with crush and strain, then put the frame back in, what will happen? That frame will get built out about a quarter of the way at most, until the flow slows down. Then it will sit until my second flow in July. They  might get that frame finished and capped before the end of the cotton flow. 

On the other hand, when I give them the comb back in June, when the July flow hits, they fill that comb, and possibly draw out comb in another super too. I don't see any way of getting around it. It simply makes sense. Cut and strain will cut down on honey harvest. For some, that is acceptable. Some prefer more wax. If that floats your boat, go for it and have fun.
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DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: Cheaper to buy RTA hives in Australia?
« Last post by Honeycomb king on July 03, 2015, 08:13:04 AM »
That sounds good, I'll be calling PGA timber later in the month to get a few packs, I run a lot of ideals 147mm to 145mm any idea if they can supply other sizes.
Thanks for the tip. Oldbeavo.
46
DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: Feed Bee
« Last post by Oldbeavo on July 03, 2015, 07:37:53 AM »
Off topic, but have you tried icing suger instead of Talc powder, bees spend time licking it off and the hive joins well.
47
GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: hive pictures
« Last post by Eric Bosworth on July 03, 2015, 07:36:10 AM »
Cool I would have to go with the first option. My son is a German Shorthair Pointer.
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DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: Cheaper to buy RTA hives in Australia?
« Last post by Oldbeavo on July 03, 2015, 07:29:14 AM »
I make my hives from 245x22 pine. It is sourced from PGA Timber in Carrum Downs (outer Melbourne suburb). Ask for Phil
The pack size is about 350 lineal meters.
The quality is not free of knots or blemishes but the price of about $3 per meter allows for this.
If i am cutting and there is a knot or hole then the piece is put aside to make lids or risers for hives.
This allows you to cut 2 ends and sides for under $6 (8 framers).
Docking saw and router table (about $200 each) and a 22mm router bit and you are in business.
when set to rebate 22mm, if you attach a piece of 7 mm ply to the router fence you have the depth for the frame rebate without adjusting the router.
Have made 200 hives and 500 supers very economocally.
49
FARMING & COUNTRY LIFE / Re: anyone raise quail?
« Last post by Eric Bosworth on July 03, 2015, 07:28:32 AM »
Yes, German Shorthairs. I screwed up the older one I didn't think about her being around and shot my 30/06. She sees my gun and hides now. Gunner however is only afraid of the shock collar and the vet... The vet issue only started after his big snip. He was carrying on making all sorts of noise she hadn't even touched him with the needle yet.
50
Sorry to be a 'party pooper' and spoil an otherwise excellent idea - but - "fields of flowers, blooming all year long" would require management. And once you have cleared your ditches of all those nasty, unwanted 'weeds' - who will perform this management ?

The idealistic hay meadow scenario only came about because of farming practices at that time. Without taking off that crop of hay, and if it were left to it's own devices, then a field full of wild grasses, thistles etc would automatically develop. The weeds you see in the ditches are pretty-much the 'default status' of the land in your area. Grazing is also an integral part of meadow management.

There are a couple of exceptions: if you were to seed those ditches with goldenrod or similar perennials, you'd have forage at least during one period of the season - but over time those woody stems would eventually begin to choke any water flow along those ditches, which presumably have been made to provide drainage.

Another alternative would be Himalayan Balsam - an ideal plant for bee forage. But - the cost of planting this would be very high indeed, for it totally blankets out any other plants or grasses (weeds), so that following die-back in late autumn, it would leave the sides of your ditches completely bare and prone to erosion by winter rains. Over time the ditches would collapse and cease to exist as water courses.

There's never an easy solution, I'm afraid - quite often things are how they are for a reason, although that reason may not always be that obvious at first sight.

'best
LJ
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