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Mine is not, I still have to pull the summer/fall honey.
THE COFFEE HOUSE ((( SOCIAL - ROOM ))) / Re: My Honey Harvest :)
« Last post by sawdstmakr on October 08, 2015, 09:22:41 PM »
The honey I got my first year was very dark. That was spring honey. I have never had dark spring honey since then. I get a little bit darker honey during the summer in town but the spring honey has always been light since then. It is from gallberry, palmetto and Tupelo.
« Last post by buzzbee on October 08, 2015, 09:13:22 PM »
Good points. And this year on two new colonies I left my reducers on most of the time.When warm I opened to larger opening if they were bearding or removed it when bearding with a large opening. I closed it back when temps go down slightly and bearding stopped. Both of the new starts made a lot of surplus as well as loading the boxes for winter. I did have carnolan queens this year,if that was the difference or not giving them more opening than needed I'm not sure. But it was my best year ever with new packages.
« Last post by GSF on October 08, 2015, 06:08:25 PM »
The inner lid didn't separate them. The only thing that separated them was the queen excluder. I'm fixing to split them this evening. Thanks though.
DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: Swarm cell inspections
« Last post by Anybrew2 on October 08, 2015, 05:07:41 PM »
Old Beavo, its the method of going through the Brood Box and opening it up or making room for the Queen to lay eggs. You remove frames of Brood and place them in the super and replace them with drawn frames or empty frames. Its called checker boarding as you remove a full frame replace with an empty frame. I do not do the whole box I replace two or three in a 8 frame box. I learnt the technique here.

« Last post by biggraham610 on October 08, 2015, 02:59:26 PM »
Yep, good points. Thanks. I also try and keep my hives as packed as I can, except during swarm season, and I always lose some anyway. G
« Last post by Michael Bush on October 08, 2015, 10:06:28 AM »
A new page:  http://www.bushfarms.com/beesspace.htm

Space Management

Important Concept

This may be the hardest and perhaps one of the most important concepts to grasp in beekeeping. Having the ideal amount of space is a tricky thing to manage but it makes the difference between prosperity and poverty for a honey bee colony. I used to find it very confusing when people would talk about always keeping strong hives. It seemed to me that a nuc or a split was always weak, by definition, but I will offer a new definition. A strong colony is merely a colony with a good density of bees.


Once you make this paradigm shift it becomes easy to maintain strong colonies. Any time you see a colony struggling, compress them. Put them in a smaller space. Remove any combs they are not occupying. Remove any combs they have lost control of as evidenced by small hive beetle or wax moth larvae. Freeze those and don't give them back until the colony has grown enough to manage them. An empty foundationless frame is better than an unoccupied drawn comb when you have an issue with hive strength. I call this process "compressing the hive". If you make the hive smaller and increase the density of the bees you will find that a struggling colony is suddenly a booming colony. It's like they were living in a house that had too high of a cost and now they are in one they can afford. Granted they are "affording" it because they have enough bees to do the work, but still they are not overwhelmed by the space that they have to heat, guard and cool. I have seen many a struggling colony turn around quickly when put in the proper space. Slightly crowded is best other than in the main flow when you have to work to keep the space open.

Fear of Swarming

The other issue, of course, is the concern that usually caused the problem of too much space and that is the fear of swarming. Beekeepers often give an overly generous space in order to avoid crowding that might cause them to swarm. When you have a colony that is really exploding and the nights are warm and there are plenty of resources coming in, then it's hard to put too many boxes on, but often these are put on too early or left too late. Whenever you see a colony struggling, one of the first things I would do is give them less space.


Nucleus hives are handy for this purpose. Eight frame mediums are also handy in that they are half the volume of a ten frame deep, so you have more ability to adjust the space to be "just right". If I have two frames of bees I like to have them in a three frame nuc. If I have six frames of bees I like them in an eight frame box.


Winter is another time that just the right space is what you want. I know you'll hear all these people say "the bees don't heat the hive, they just heat the cluster" but I'll guarantee you will be warmer in a small room than a large room when they are cold and both the same temperature. I have spent a lot of my life working outside or semi-outside building houses and little things make a big difference when it comes to cold. I want my hives going into winter with the space they need, not a lot of extra space. Any extra space, if necessary, should be on the bottom. This is part of the concept of overwintering nucs. A small cluster of bees can get through the winter if the density of the bees is high enough.
DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: Hi from a newbie
« Last post by Chiefman on October 08, 2015, 09:49:09 AM »
Welcome Matey  :happy:
if your in Sydney.. Why not join the Parramatta Bee Keepers Club. I'm a member.

Its free and they are a great bunch of people who a more than willing to help and give you some hands on experience
We have Field days every month and check out the club hives

Check out a short video I made

DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: buying supplies
« Last post by Chiefman on October 08, 2015, 09:44:21 AM »
Try Nuplas Plastic bee hives. they are in Vic. You can assemble 3 boxes in 10 mins Lids and bases already assembled

DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: buying supplies
« Last post by Oldbeavo on October 08, 2015, 08:10:16 AM »
Redpaths in Melbourne is as good as it gets for small supplies.
Bees are not that fussy, so you could build your own out of pine. I have some hives that have 19mm sides because it was cheap, $2.60 a metre. It was 220x19, so i added a strip (glued and nailed) to get it to 250 for hives and 240 for supers
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