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« Last post by mikecva on Today at 01:14:45 PM »
Congratulations :happy:   -Mike
GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: normals for all mediums
« Last post by mikecva on Today at 01:11:31 PM »
I run all mediums also. I normally have three for brood, an exclude and 2-3 supers. Most of the time there is 4 inches of honey over the brood area in the top box. Because of this, I take the third super and replace the center frames over the brood with full frames of honey (making 3 mediums for winter). The removed frames go back into brood mediums in the spring. If there is only an inch of brood in the top box, then I get all the supers to use as I need/desire. Hope you can follow this.  -Mike
I made my first three hives from cedar. One of which made 150 pounds of honey that year after a late start. It is not a problem.
« Last post by drjeseuss on Today at 12:44:33 PM »
If you have a table saw, and a bit of experience running it, it's quite trivial to build a lang hive from 1-by lumber.  I've enjoyed doing this about as much as having the bees.  The best part, if you're able to do this kind of work...  if you find a flaw or wish for an improvement, include the fix in your next build.  I've been interested to build and try a top bar hive, but the langs are doing well enough, I'm not ready to make the jump.  I'd think top bar would be easier to start if you had other hives to get resources from (new queen cells for example).  I see issues with running my langs, but generally like them.  As a suggestion since you are just starting out, keep to all mediums.  I'm sure others here will disagree with this, but I'm certain (for me) this is the way to go.  All equipment is interchangable, no issues moving boxes up or down in the stack, etc.  It just gives more options.  Once you are up and running, it should be a simple matter to produce your own 'package' of bees to try the TBH again.
« Last post by NeilTheCop on Today at 12:32:35 PM »
The top bar hives, although at first glance a good idea, seem to have problems with getting a package successfully introduced.
I downloaded the plans for the Langstroth hive box and I'm off to Home Depot for some 1 x 8 boards and a new blade for my table saw.
Any members of the forum in the Southern New Mexico (Roswell) area have, or know of any, swarms, nucs or packages for sale?

As Sir Winston Churchill once said "The definition of success, is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm"
GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / normals for all mediums
« Last post by drjeseuss on Today at 12:12:03 PM »
I run all mediums.  I've always read when running mediums, 3 are needed minimum to overwinter in our climate.  I've not given much thought beyond that, until recently.  In past years I've worried moe about splitting to increase, so all have been held back a bit.  This year, I have a strong hive with a young queen.  Last weekend I opened the hive and found that she's been laying in all three boxes!  I'm used to seeing the bottom two w/ brood, three and and above are stores.  I've pulled them down to 3 total in fall, when they've got about 1/2 brood, 2 1/2 stores.  I'm not going to hold her back this year, but curious what's normal.  I'd prefer not to run excluders, but wonder how high she'll lay as I add more room for them.  What's a normal pattern to see in all mediums for spring and summer?
« Last post by amymcg on Today at 11:50:18 AM »
Yes - still teaching music, doctoral degree in saxophone!

I've never been to the field day.  I have a performance that day so I'm afraid it's off my list anyway.
My hives last year had little in the way of upper ventalation, and all had a bad mildew problem inside the hive.  This is what prompted me to use a 100% screen inner cover on one.  It also has the gable top.  No mildew to speak of.  I'm hoping it's the screen, which is fairly cheap and easy to produce.  The gable top was a pain to make, and I'd rather not change the other hives to these...  unless I really need to.  I think I'm going to try swapping the standard inner for a screen inner and keeping the telescoping cover to see if that helps.  Since it's on the outer and not inside the hive, I can live with it if the bees can, but I feel this is a symptom of a problem that will also lead to early equipment failure.  I'll try a few things and see where I end up.
« Last post by KeyLargoBees on Today at 10:59:05 AM »
Closed minded, short sighted, obnoxious people have always been there and aren't something new, although today's technology with the advent of social media gives them additional opportunity to vent their spleen...but they have always been there and I would bet they are at about the same % of the population now as they were 50 years ago.....but as population numbers and density have increased the likelihood of meeting and dealing with these morons seems to have increased even though as a % of the total population that are likely still at the same numbers.

Thicken the skin a little and deal with them as you would a bully....don't let them bait you and "kill" them with kindness while not letting them upset you or cause you to overreact and they will move onto their next crisis or pet peeve and forget about you and your bees when no incidents arise to fuel the flames.
GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. / Re: Virgin queens and swarms
« Last post by OldMech on Today at 10:30:49 AM »
  you don't see the old "german" bees that you used to see back then in many places.

   One in ten of my bees from locally bred queens is a black bee.. no stripes. They are descendants, or throwbacks to the bees that I managed for my mentor 30+ years ago. Yes, they are fading. With the loss of feral hives there are less of them now than ever before, but they are still there. You can still get them if you do a little searching.

we've bred some important traits out of the bees and that the gap created was being filled or partially filled by true feral bees until the varroa came through and decimated those populations. the feral bees today are predominantly from the stock that has been bred over the last century or century and a half (however long there has been selective breeding of bees in this country now).  those bees were bred to not make propolis, not swarm and have a gentle nature among other things and this has taken the overall quality of the bees down a notch or two.

   "We" the beekeepers, have been selecting for better stock for how long?  A thousand years? Two thousand? And you think in the last generation or two we have made a difference? Perhaps I need to buy AI'd queens to see this..  The only major difference in keeping bees I have seen..  (Besides treating for mites) is that packages DIE way more than they used to during winter.

   We still have the bees, or the ability to get bees from all over the world.
   Itallian, from South of the Alps and North of Sicily.
   Carniolan from Slovenia
   Russian from Primorsky Territory.
   European black bee from Great Britain.
    Imported bees from Australia?  Buckfast, Starline, Midnight, Caucasion, and Cordovan, as well as VSH breeds and MN Hygienic...  The countless lines of survivors available? Last but not least Africanized bees..
   From all of those bees, you also have the different LINES of those types to choose from..
   In example, Italian bees from Georgia, Texas, Florida, California, Hawaii, etc... IF you want commercial bees..  If you prefer bees produced by more local beekeepers, or just Northern winter bred bees?  The options are VAST!

   I have not had any difficulty adding new (resistant) genetics to my Apiary.. I bring in resistant bees from different places every year to add to the "mutt" status of my bees.. bees that survive winter just like they did when I was fourteen years old.

   I will not and can not argue that there is change coming,  but I honestly do not believe it is HERE, or that I will live to see it in my lifetime.
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