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I would not bee surprised if you find that there are very few bees in the box. If it is full, that was one very large swarm. Did you put a lot of LGO in it. It may bee keeping them out.
I once had a large swarm cover the entrance and bottom of a trap. I thought it was really a very large swarm. It turned out they were only on the outside of the trap and had already started building comb under the box. It was just a good swarm.
THE COFFEE HOUSE ((( SOCIAL - ROOM ))) / Re: Question for the Ladies
« Last post by sawdstmakr on Today at 12:55:35 PM »
My wife got into it because of her (it was mine) observation hive. When I had to split it the first time she wanted to make sure that I left the frames that she wanted them in the hive. She always makes sure she is right there when I work on it. Now she helps me with the rest of the hives.
Just the other day, we were moving a swarm into a hive and after the frames were out of the trap, I found the queen. I showed her where it was and she could barely see the queen thought the hood screen, (her brand new jacket  :smile:). I went to get a paint marker and turned around to see that she had removed the hood and practically had her head in the trap to find the queen. She is getting comfortable with the bees. Yea.
HONEYBEE REMOVAL / Re: Amazing Swarm season
« Last post by sawdstmakr on Today at 12:46:06 PM »
Way to go Jeff.
It has been pretty good for me also. My bees are at my farm including 6 that were swarms and I caught 2 swarms in my back yard here in town in the last 10 days. Both are building very nicely.
At the moment this is all new to me, so I don't have answers to difficult questions (yet ... ).  But when making splits or introducing nucs etc., Dadant recommends the use of a partition board to adjust the volume and thus the comb size available.

Perhaps I ought to explain how I came across this recent 'discovery':  many years ago I built a 4ft KTBH, only to quickly discover that top-bar beekeeping wasn't for me.  Now I hate waste, and so a couple of years back I decided that, rather than put it on the bonfire, I'd convert said KTBH into a straight-sided framed Long Hive.  Purely by chance, it evolved into a 12" deep box and, just as your Deeps are 9", so are ours (they're just a little shorter than Langs).  So I ended up making an Xtra-Deep (12") Dual Long Hive.

I duly 'stored' a couple of colonies in it which weren't very impressive, whilst they awaited re-queening.  But - when I next looked in that hive, both colonies had exploded.  And by 'exploded' I mean they had filled combs wall-to-wall and top to bottom with brood. Now to see such a huge slab of brood is truly awesome.  On the next frame the same. Then a frame of drones - again, top to bottom and wall-to-wall. Same with a pollen frame and exactly the same with a honey comb.  None of your oval brood patterns with a crescent-shaped arc of pollen over, and the top corners built-out thick with honey ... for some strange reason the extra 3" had changed their behaviour completely.

I have since created two more 14x12 (12" deep) colonies, and they are behaving in exactly the same way. Four colonies, each of which is powerful beyond belief when compared with every other colony on this site.

Then, during an email exchange with a friend on the South Coast of England who runs Dadants, I mentioned this unusual behaviour in passing.  He replied that what I had described is exactly what he sees with his Modified Dadant hives - so this is not a fluke, it's got something to do with comb size, and I'm as puzzled as anyone as to why a few extra inches of comb should make such a difference to a colony's behaviour.

It seems to me that the Dadant concept is similar in principle to other fixed-volume hives, insomuch as there is just one brood chamber, the volume of which never changes.

Well, I'm so intrigued by this that I've already started building a set of 14"x14" Xtra-Xtra-Deep frames for one of my British Nationals, which will then fit into a Brood Box over a Super (the so-called 'Brood and a Half' configuration, which normally employs two frames) but using single frames instead as Dadant recommends.  It's just an experiment at this stage, just to see what results.

Nice. First time I have seen it done.
DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: Best Paints For Hives
« Last post by sawdstmakr on Today at 12:36:24 PM »
If you really want your boxes to last a long time, boil them in wax. There is another ingredient that I do not recall, maybe Micheal will chime in with its name.
The wax boils out the water and replaces it with wax. Looks great and lasts a long time. Do it once and your done.
The big downfall is the up front expense for equipment and wax.
You mean the way folks introduce invasive species of things to the U.S.  :wink:
I knew a guy that was in the Russian queen breeder program. They track by marking queens with multiple colors. ie.. blue- green queen.... green- yellow queen etc. Generations of the queen could have the dominant color like green then next generation add red etc. Then as the queen moved you know what she was.
Where did that get you? What will you do if you find her?
Beekeeping is a science with an infinite amount of variables.  The art is figuring out the variables.

 I must have missed something in the translation of the long original post... I would put her in a split without cells...in particular if she is a good queen... did I miss something?
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