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DOWN UNDER BEEKEEPING / Re: How much (weight) honey in an Ideal super?
« Last post by rawfind on Today at 07:02:44 PM »
I think It's more related to weight, an 8 frame super full of honey is heavy and unwieldy. I suspect a 10 frame would be even more so. It's easier to start with 8 frame gear now than change from 10 to 8 later when you find you can't lift a full 10 frame super any more  :wink:

Agree with Paul,   an 8 frame box full of honey weighs a lot, i tend to try and get my ute close by with a box on the ute and transfer each frame i want to the box on the ute, or i only lift a box of 4 frames up on the ute, you have to think about your back , 10 frames is even heavier, but you need to decide what you are going to use before you go too far into it as you dont want 10 and 8 frame boxes that you cant mix and match.
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Are you saying "mini nucs" meaning the frames are something other than standard size, or what?  Your question has been opened and read by a lot of people and nobody has answered because maybe nobody understands what you are asking.

Usually a nuc is just a box with fewer frames -- 2, 4, 5 or something -- instead of 8 or 10 frames.  You'd normally use the size frame compatible with the size hive you'll eventually move the bees into.   At least, that's my understanding.  You could use frames that belong in a deep box, for example.

Clarify your question and you'll be more likely to get a bunch of answers.  Some might even agree with the others :shocked:
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GREETINGS/TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF / Hello from Portugal
« Last post by EricConcE on Today at 06:37:25 PM »
Hello!
Recentlly having moved to Portugal, I am a young apiculturist who is currently working on expanding his apiaries in the coastal regions. I'm always eager to learn from those who are more experienced.
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I figured I would reach out to Warre beekeepers who may have experience with using half-frames (as per Gilles Denis: http://ruche-warre.com/des-cadres-ou-des-barrettes.html). I am considering using this concept in the brood nest of my nationals with larger dimensions (43cm length, 24cm depth. Denis states that he chose this design after observing that colonies only attached combs in the top 1/3 of nests (corresponding to honeycomb portion). Could this concept work without too many attachments in the brood nest of my hives? TY for insight.
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DISEASE & PEST CONTROL / Formic Acid - Hot Temperatures?
« Last post by EricConcE on Today at 06:24:13 PM »
Hello all,
I am interested in hearing about the effectivenss of Formic acid pads/baggies (either 50% or 65% solutions method) during hot months in which temperatures are in the 90s. I have heard that at these hotter temperautres, it may be damaging to the colonies - if this is the case I may opt for a Thymol based product instead. Experiences/Advice is appreciated!
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MEMBER'S WEBPAGES, BLOGS & FORUMS / Re: Here's my website
« Last post by mikecva on Today at 06:01:55 PM »
Nice   :grin:   -Mike
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MEMBER'S WEBPAGES, BLOGS & FORUMS / Here's my website
« Last post by capt44 on Today at 04:47:20 PM »
This is my website to promote Honey Bees.

http://www.rvbees.com
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DISEASE & PEST CONTROL / Re: Weird looking brood - sick?
« Last post by rwlaw on Today at 04:28:07 PM »
Ziffa, pls do keep us posted! It's something I've not seen before. Mayhaps you should find somewhere to quarantine the hive till you find out what is.
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DISEASE & PEST CONTROL / Re: Weird looking brood - sick?
« Last post by AR Beekeeper on Today at 03:56:53 PM »
The larva in the prepupal have been uncapped after they died.  American Foulbrood dies in this stage, as does Sackbrood and Chalkbrood.  European Foulbrood also dies in this stage, but usually it is seen in larva that are still in the curled stage.  In EFB the remains are "rubbery" and easy to remove from the cell.

If you have seen no "mummies" that would rule out Chalkbrood.  If the remains do not form the water filled sack with the raised dark head, that will rule out Sackbrood.  If the remains do not form the coffee with cream coloration, and the remains are not sticky and do not string out when mixed with a stick, and the "scale" that is formed is easy to remove from the cell, it is not American Foulbrood.

If you have been lax in your varroa mite treatments what you are seeing could be Bee Parasitic Mite Syndrome, or as it is called now Idiopathic Mite Syndrome.  This is when the virus load the mites transmit kills the developing bees and the remains look like a mix of diseases, especially AFB and EFB, but the remains are not ropy, and are watery, not sticky.

If you give brood to the sick colony make it sealed brood.  The young bees will help in the house cleaning.  You can look in the empty cells for signs of varroa and do some mite counts to give you an idea if varroa is a problem.  A good book on bee diseases or the USDA websites are interesting reading.
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HUMOR IS A FUNNY THING / Re: Domestic Violence
« Last post by GSF on Today at 03:55:31 PM »
 :smile: :cool:
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