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« Last post by sawdstmakr on Today at 01:13:35 PM »
I had a similar situation 2 weeks ago. In 13 days, the swarm filled 8 empty frames They did not build on 2 old plasticell frames that I had placed in the trap) and then built 12" of comb below the frames and filled most of them with brood.
HONEYBEE REMOVAL / Re: Swarm shake
« Last post by sawdstmakr on Today at 01:08:53 PM »
Very nice Video. Hope you make more.
I also need to add a sheet to my swarm equipment in my truck.
Sounds like they got into some poison. How many bees were in the grass?
DISEASE & PEST CONTROL / Re: Varroa - to treat, or not to treat ?
« Last post by sawdstmakr on Today at 12:59:51 PM »
I had heard that India, due to lack of money for treatment, decided when they were first infested with mites, that they were not going to treat them across the country. The first 2 years they lost most of their hives but then they recovered. Treatment free. I go with treatment free. This spring, most of my hives were dropping mites like crazy, I was worried but did not treat. It took about 2 to 3 weeks to clear up. Now I rarely see them in the dry oil trays.
I've been out to just watch my bees most days, and the last few times I've noticed bees that 'look' like they're dying. I know that a package can have bees of all ages and that some might be about at the end, so I was wondering ... what does typical bee behavior look like when they're at the end of their lives?

The bees I've scooped off the grass look shakey ... sometimes one or more legs might not be moving ... and they seem not to be able to stay upright.

Just trying to get a handle on what is normal.

DISEASE & PEST CONTROL / Re: Varroa - to treat, or not to treat ?
« Last post by Michael Bush on Today at 12:47:15 PM »
If everyone continuously treats for Varroa the problem is unsolvable.  The feral bees (our only real hope for the future genetics of bees) will still have Varroa.  As soon as everyone stopped treating for Tracheal mites the problem went away.  The problem is not the people not treating.  The problem is the people treating.

?If you?re not part of the genetic solution of breeding mite-tolerant bees, then you?re part of the problem?? Randy Oliver
« Last post by MT Bee Girl on Today at 12:42:20 PM »
Interesting. Thanks.
Bee Quick smells like almond extract or maraschino cherries. aka benzaldhyde.  Bee Go, Honey Robber etc. are Butyric acid and smell like vomit on steroids...
« Last post by Michael Bush on Today at 12:30:56 PM »
>What is it exactly

There is not such thing as a queen extruder...

> and do I really need one?

Obviously not.

But assuming you meant excluder...  here is a quote from Isaac Hopkins:

"Queen Excluders... are very useful in queen rearing, and in uniting colonies; but for the purpose they are generally used, viz., for confining the queen to the lower hive through the honey season, I have no hesitation in condemning them. As I have gone into this question fully on a previous occasion, I will quote my remarks:--
"The most important point to observe during the honey season in working to secure a maximum crop of honey is to keep down swarming, and the main factors to this end, as I have previously stated, are ample ventilation of the hives, and adequate working-room for the bees. When either or both these conditions are absent, swarming is bound to take place. The free ventilation of a hive containing a strong colony is not so easily secured in the height of the honey season, even under the best conditions, that we can afford to take liberties with it; and when the ventilating--space between the lower and upper boxes is more than half cut off by a queen-excluder, the interior becomes almost unbearable on hot days. The results under such circumstances are that a very large force of bees that should be out working are employed fanning-, both inside and out, and often a considerable part of the colony will be hanging outside the hive in enforced idleness until it is ready to swarm.
"Another evil caused by queen-excluders, and tending to the same end--swarming--is that during a brisk honey-flow the bees will not readily travel through them to deposit their loads of surplus honey in the supers, but do store large quantities in the breeding-combs, and thus block the breeding-space. This is bad enough at any time, but the evil is accentuated when it occurs in the latter part of the season. A good queen gets the credit of laying from two to three thousand eggs per day: supposing she is blocked for a few days, and loses the opportunity of laying, say, from fifteen hundred to two thousand eggs each day, the colony would quickly dwindle down, especially as the average life of the bee in the honey season is only about six weeks.
"For my part I care not where the queen lays--the more bees the more honey. If she lays in some of the super combs it can be readily rectified now and again by putting the brood below, and side combs of honey from the lower box above; some of the emerging brood also may be placed at the side of the upper box to give plenty of room below. I have seen excluders on in the latter part of the season, the queens idle for want of room, and very little brood in the hives, just at a time when it is of very great importance that there should be plenty of young bees emerging."--Isaac Hopkins, The Australasian Bee Manual
Any time Art.
I saw the below technique on a Utube video that Schawee and Iddee did years ago at a Bud meeting and it has worked real well.
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